Forgive my density, all the searching I did did not really answer my particular question.

What are the actual differences between the Bulldog and Pitbull locks? I am looking to get a mini lock. The only difference on the onguard site is that the Pitbull weighs a little more and looks slightly different. Also, in this low to maybe moderate risk area I live in, would it be worth it to carry around the almost twice as heavy Brute mini? I'm not really worried about price, but wanted to get the most practical lock. Seems like buying any of these locks would give me coverage that would buy me a new bike.

Thanks!

Alright I found an old post explaining that the Pitbull basically has a beefier crossbar, slightly better security rating.

Nashbar has a Brute mini for a pretty attractive $30, though it seems to be the previous generation. I guess I'm willing to put up with a little extra weight for what seems to be quite a lot more lock for the money. Are there any caveats with that design that would deter me from using it rather than the new one?

Thanks!

After you read all of the "fine print" that comes with the theft insurance supplied by any lock company, you'll understand why they offer it. There are about twenty hoops you need to jump through to collect a dime, and you are likely to get much less than you paid for your bike. So, instead of relying on insurance, rely on buying the correct lock for your particular needs, and using it correctly.

The Pitbull and Bulldog mini u-locks appear to be essentially identical, although the OnGuard rates the Pitbull more highly. I recently bought the 2006 mini/mini version of the Bulldog, called the "Bulldog Mini TC". The "TC" uses a slimmer case around the shackle, which greatly reduces the "bulk" of the lock, and brings its weight down under two pounds, including the frame mount. The "TC" uses a dual bolt locking system, which means prying and leverage attacks will fail, and a crook cutting the lock must cut through both legs of the shackle. Much more work than the average crook is willing to do.

The "TC" is an ideal lock for someone who is locking up a bike worth less than $500 or so in a safe neighborhood during the day. It is just big enough to use the "Sheldon Brown" locking method of putting the lock around the rear wheel (and around NO part of the frame) and around a beefy parking meter post set in concrete. Put a second "TC" or cable lock on the front wheel, and you are good to go.

The "Mini Brute" was on the OnGuard catalog in around 2004, although some stores still have them in stock. The shackle is about the same length and width as the "TC", but the "Mini Brute" weighs more than four pounds, compared to less than two pounds for the "TC". Neither lock can be broken by the typical prying/leverage methods, but the "Mini Brute" would last longer against heavy duty cutting tools. (I've never heard of a crook in my town using heavy duty cutting tools against a premium lock...if they can't pry a lock, they give up).

If your bike is worth more than about $500, or if you are parking in neighborhoods that are not exactly "Friendly Village", you need a heavy duty u-lock, such as the OnGuard Brute, the Mini Brute., or the Kryptonite New York lock. Otherwise, the "TC" will work fine.

I agree with all that Alan said above, I just purchased a bulldo mini tc, got it friday and I am happy with it...

if you are still looking...check these guys out..$24.99 with free shipping and I got it in 4 days, a new record

https://shop.sunrisecyclery.com/item/13852/
shop.sunrisecyclery.com: OnGuard 5013TC Bulldog Mini Thin Crossbar

Cool, thanks for the info and the tip, might go ahead and get that one.

How do you know if it's previous generation.....
how can you tell?

The OnGuard website shows the 2006 models. A model not shown there is likely to be an older model. The most important question is what size/weight lock do you need. The four/five pound u-locks from OnGuard/Magnum test at the "gold" level and the two/three pound locks test at the "silver" level.

www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm

Some of the older generation of of Onguard locks are prone to freezing up. By this I mean that they sometimes refuse to open or have trouble opening. OnGuard suggests hitting the lock with a heavy insturment when this happens.

According to the fine folks at Todson, the US distrubitor of OnGuard, the maker of the locks (Magnum in the UK) often redesigns the locks with an aim to solving this problem.

The following is from the OnGuard website.


I am having trouble opening my lock. What can I do?

Content

We have found that despite our efforts to make the best locks in the industry, a small number of lock owners, particularly in beachside areas and areas where salt is used to condition icy roads, encounter trouble with our lock mechanism. Corrosion and dryness of the lock cylinder sometimes cause the locking mechanim to bind 90-degrees into the rotation of the key.

There are several steps lock owners can take to prevent this. First, most of our locks come with a plastic cover to keep dirt and debris out of the locking mechanism. Keeping the cover closed at all times will greatly increase the reliable durability of the locking mechanism. Second, the locks are designed to drain water that enters the lock. As such, the water that goes through the lock can actually wash away the manufactuer's lubrication. If you feel your lock getting dry (it becomes harder and noisy to turn the key), use some light oil or lubricant to reduce friction between moving parts in the locking mechanism.

Finally, in situation where the lock does bind and users cannot get the lock open, we have discovered a technique that may help in getting the lock open to allow for further maintenance. Although we do not recommend that users rely on the following method, we have found a way to unlock most locks that are binding as a result of the above-described problem. The procedure is as follows:
1) insert the key in fully into the cylinder
2) turn it 90-degrees, right before the point where the key would normally start binding.
3) with the key in this position, sharply tap the lock with a firm object (we've used another lock, a small hammer, or similar object) along the length of the crossbar.
4) as you are tapping the lock, continue turning the key.

We should note that this method has not worked on all locks, but it has been helpful in getting users out of binds. We should also note that you should NOT FORCE THE KEY. Excessive force used to turn the key may result in bending or breaking the key or damaging the locking cylinder.

We offer the above advice and maintenace recommendations so that our consumers will have a resource to turn to when wondering how they should take care of their locks and troubleshoot them in case of an emergency. However, consumers experiencing persistent problems with the lock should contact us directly via phone (800-213-4561) or through a support ticket.

Created: 2/28/06, JCA
Modified: 4/11/06, JCA

https://www.todson.com/support/index....=viewent&id=44

I used an Onguard bulldog mini while couriering in the Canadian winter months, where it was exposed to lots of road salt. It began to bind up, but I was able to unlock it. After that, I sprayed the cylinder with WD-40 and it was good as new for the rest of the winter.

Onguard's cylinder is both a blessing and a curse. Its a double-sided Abloy derivative (think its from Abus), and has the advantages of not having any springs to worry about, and no insertion force. However it is a pain when the detainer discs get out of line so you have to wiggle the key to get them lined up. Having a lock that can't be Bic Penned or bumped is worth the hassle for me though. Someone breaks the lock, I may have a chance of getting an insurance claim in. Someone picks the lock leaving no trace, there is no way an American insurance company would accept the claim. The nice thing, one can use a decent lock lubricant (avoid dry graphite lube) with these locks periodically, and the lock should work without issue for a good while. However, this depends on climate.

The OnGuard mechanism is essentially the same as that being used on the best 2006 Kryptonite locks. Both require that the key be fully seated before turning, or the internal discs get misaligned. If the disks are misaligned, it takes ten seconds (with a little practice) the realign them with the tip of the key.

All locks, every brand, will have problems when exposed to rain, road spray, salt, and corrosive chemicals (such as the "air" in states under the rule of the petro-chemical industry). Treating with lubricant from the corner locksmith will prevent problems. If you have neglected to use lube, WD-40 will get the lock working again.

These are NOT "OnGuard problems". These are "owners not reading the instructin manual" problems.

I'm going to disagree with you on this one. I've had three Onguard locks freeze up on me in six months. I took the first one to a locksmith, not even he could open it.

First- I've read the instruction manual that came with my Onguard locks in detail. I've even translated it.

Second- I lubercate my locks every month.

Third- Before I bought Onguard locks for my wife and I we used Abus chains with the same style key as the Onguard. Over several years using the Abus locks we never had a problem, they open every time.

The long and the short of it is that mainland China made Onguard locks are not made with nearly the precision of Abus locks. The mechanism in the Onguard is sloppy. There must be a reason Onguard changes the design of their locks so often.