I used to run a 3/32" drive train (chain, chain wheel, cog) when I ran Sugino 75s. When I switched to a 1/8" ZEN chain wheel, I just got a 1/8" KMC K710 chain and kept the 3/32" Surly Cog. My Park Tool SR-1 3/32" chain whip worked great.

Then I switched to an all 1/8" drive train (Dura Ace 7710 Cranks, 1/8" DA chain wheel, a Phil Wood 1/8" cog, and a KMC K710 1/8" chain. That 3/32" chain whip didn't work anymore on that 1/8" cog.

The SR-1 packaging doesn't mention that it only works for 3/32" (are you listening Park Tool?) So I decided to convert the 3/32" Chainwhip to 1/8". It's sort of easier said than done. But, it's not that hard.

Why is the chainwhip 3/32" instead of 1/8" when 1/8" is larger and will work for both, you ask? Well, 1/8" won't fit between cogs on a casette. And cassettes are all 3/32" (that I know of). But, SS and FG don't have that problem.

Parts needed:
- Park Tool SR-1 Chain Whip - $0 (MSRP around $20)
- 3 1/8" Master Links = $6 (3 x $2) *Make sure that they are 1/8", pins on 3/32" master links are too short.
- 12 links of an old 1/8" chain = $0 (Old worn out chain)

Tools needed:
- Chain Breaker
- Pliars



With the Donor Chain:
1: Break the donor chain into the proper lengths. Note that you will need to break the donor chain into lengths equal to the chain you are replacing keeping in mind that you will use the 3 master links to connect to the lever bar.

With the Chain Whip:
1: Take the pliars and twist the base of the long chain part of chain whip to twist and break the links off of the pin bolting it to the lever. This takes a small bit of effort.

2: Use the chain breaker to push out one of the pins in middle of the short chain part dividing it in two. Then twist the links to break them off of the pins linking them to the arm.

3: Re-assemble as shown using donor chain and master links.



Now I have a chain whip to work on 1/8" AND 3/32" and it only cost me $6 and about 20 minutes of effort.






(And before you do it, please don't start another rotofixa debate....PLEASE. That horse was beaten to death a long time ago)

Rad. I actually have a broken Park 3/32 chainwhip collecting dust. This makes it easy. Thanks!

Holy crap - a post worthwhile in an otherwise steaming pile of trash.

Nicely done!

...or you could just get the wheels manufacturing chainwhip that fits 1/8" cogs. that one works pretty damn well.

...or you could all stop being complete weenies and start riding bikes with gears.





....just a thought.

or you might take a moment for thought, de-grouchify, and realize that there are a few of us that use track bikes...ON THE TRACK!

ya know?
but yeah, gears on the horizon. I need base miles...for next year already.

Worn chain on a chainwhip isn't the greatest idea, just like on the bike you're not going to get as much engagement.

If you're going to bother modding a chainwhip, do it tomity style with a loop so you have yourself a knuckle saver.

Re: Why chain whips aren't 1/8" (and eventually, why they wouldn't be 3/32" if 10sp were to ultimately conquer the world)

Some cassettes, notably DA and Campy 10sp use 11/128" spacing to accomodate for the number of cogs on the cassette. A 3/32" chainwhip wouldn't even fit between the cog spacing, although that's not even how I would remove a cassette. I always put the chainwhip on the largest cog, so I get the greatest distribution of force between the lockring removal tool, its accompanying wrench, and the chain whip.

Tomity style? I'm not familiar with it. Please explain. Pics?

Wow, you have a marble counter in your workshop?
I want to live in your garage.

Tomity's chain whip:


Basically it uses the rotafix trick. It can't pop off, so no more skinned knuckles from chainwhip accidents. You can do the same thing with any other chain whip, just take the little shorty piece off and put a foot or so of chain from the farthest out hole to the next one in.

And no fair going to market with this, it's Tomity's idea and my hack.

no. i will never de-grouchify.




ever.

That's very cool. I guess I could have done something like that, too. I always get real tense hoping it won't pop off.

So, using this method, can one length of chain work for multiple cogs teeth counts (i.e 14t, 15t, 16t, 17t, 18t...)?

This might be worth a shot. Heck, all I gotta do is add a few more links to the long piece, unhook 2 master links, and re-config.

yeah, one length works for everything, it just overlaps more if you are using it on a smaller cog. I use mine on road cassettes and FG cogs, no problems ever.

Word.

With that, i only need 2 master links, which drops the project budget by 1/3 to $4!

If I get some free time tonight, I'll hook it up and take more pics.

rotafix really works well. I high advise using it with a lockring. It ends up being on super tight, no problem.

Please?

I was just saying if you don't have the cash to drop on the tool or are in a bind is all. I think the conversion trick is awesome, actually, and will probably try it myself.

I understand, but rotafixa is a "hot button" topic around here and not really relavent. I don't want the thread hijacked.

No offense, but saying that "Rotafixa woks, too" in this thread is like saying "Radio works, too" when the thread is about hacking iPods to play other file formats. Yeah, both play music. But, that's not the point.

Anyways, I rarely use a chain whip or rotafix, I found a way to isntall linux on my ipod and now it removes / tightens cogs for me.

resurrecting a dead thread, are these still available.

Carleton, is there a reason why you used masterlinks in this mod instead of a chain breaker? I have a feeling there is but I'm not sure...

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=190199813196

"Tomity-style" Track Chain Whip on eBay!

^^^I checked the shipping charges to Finland. It felt like a kick in the groin.

So, I decided I'll make my own !!

Digging up an old thread... because I just did this great mod. Quick and easy.

I used a Dremel to weaken the links at the base of the tool, so they'd break off easier. You only have to break off one link for the other to slide out with the pin. For the long length, I Dremeled off the "rivet" type pin (not sure why they don't just use a regular chain pin for that piece.

The only "con" to this modification is that the plate/handle is pretty thin (made for the 3/16" chain), so there is a little bit too much play with the 1/8" chain now installed. We'll see how it actually affects the usefulness of the tool - my hunch is not much, but time will tell.

Thanks for the awesome idea & tutorial (photos aren't necessary, so it's ok they're not loading).

Thanks for the kind words.

I use mine several times a week (for gear changes at the velodrome) with no issues.