I broke my Raleigh 20's SA 8sp hub gear
#26
Part-time epistemologist
You don't say what sprocket ratio you were running, but given that you were on 20" wheels, I'm guessing that it was rather higher than would be used on a bike with full-sized wheels, so even though you appear to be a strong rider, you would actually be stressing it less than a rider with full-sized wheels (and appropriate sprocket sizes) would be doing.
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A narrative on bicycle driving.
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#27
Part-time epistemologist
Actually, I was wondering myself. Then again, there is a link in the previous post.
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A narrative on bicycle driving.
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#28
Part-time epistemologist
BTW, Jur ... sorry to hear about your bad luck. I hope it works out for the best.
-G
-G
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A narrative on bicycle driving.
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#29
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All of the above is a guess. I'm really just wondering aloud.
#31
Raleigh20 PugFixie, Merc
Sheldon rocks - He was really helpful when I mailed him when I couldn't get the black collar off my UN-72 back in the day. I think he has a special email filter that favours bikes he likes so one is more likely to recieve some sage advice if it's about R20s than - say a Trek FX7100..
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My Raleigh Twenty site | foldr : A flickr pool | #6460, #5632 & #3407 on the fixedgeargallery
My Raleigh Twenty site | foldr : A flickr pool | #6460, #5632 & #3407 on the fixedgeargallery
#32
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#33
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I made the ball ring spanner from a piece of alum rectangular tubing and some hardened screws.
#36
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The bigger the rear sprocket, the more torque on the hub for the same amount of chain pull.
Bikes with small wheels require less torque to drive the bike (but the have to spin faster.)
They also require less "power" from a hub brake, so hub brakes that are marginal on big-wheel bikes can work fine on small wheel bikes. A case in point is the Sturmey-Archer drums on my Greenspeed with 349 mm (16") wheels.
Sheldon "Moment Arm" Brown
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Sheldon rocks - He was really helpful when I mailed him when I couldn't get the black collar off my UN-72 back in the day. I think he has a special email filter that favours bikes he likes so one is more likely to recieve some sage advice if it's about R20s than - say a Trek FX7100..
I wholeheartedly agree L.P.....I have found Mr. Brown a wealth of knowledge and only too happy to help....a bit different to the "elite and arrogant" snobbery one sometimes finds in racing cycles.
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Yeah, the SA103A is what is listed in the various manuals. I am going to use food-grade chain grease, it seems to have similar consistency.
I made the ball ring spanner from a piece of alum rectangular tubing and some hardened screws.
I made the ball ring spanner from a piece of alum rectangular tubing and some hardened screws.
The real stuff is very lightweight.
I'm very happy just with a few drops of light oil now and then. My srf-3 has had no grease at all for a thousand miles - not even in the wheel bearings. Spin it up in top gear on a stand and it runs on and on like a perpetual motion machine. The back wheel spins longer than the front one which has grease of course.
As for the Lubricating gel google surrprise, you get the same kind of thing if you google 'lubricant'. Considering the relative world demand for the two kinds of products, it tells you something about the interests of Internet users - or maybe Internet marketers.
Last edited by EvilV; 10-04-07 at 03:37 AM.
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The grease needs to be very slippy thin stuff. I have experimented with ordinary grease - the pedals went around like a fixy when coasting in top gear. Too much drag by far ( x10).
The real stuff is very lightweight.
I'm very happy just with a few drops of light oil now and then. My srf-3 has had no grease at all for a thousand miles - not even in the wheel bearings. Spin it up in top gear on a stand and it runs on and on like a perpetual motion machine. The back wheel spins longer than the front one which has grease of course.
The real stuff is very lightweight.
I'm very happy just with a few drops of light oil now and then. My srf-3 has had no grease at all for a thousand miles - not even in the wheel bearings. Spin it up in top gear on a stand and it runs on and on like a perpetual motion machine. The back wheel spins longer than the front one which has grease of course.
#40
Part-time epistemologist
Although the schematics for the 36-hole version do not quite match up with the 28-hole version of the hub.
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If you go for a port, I hope you'll execute it better than I did. I just used a hand held electric drill to put a 3mm hole in the shell. Then I tapped in a short bolt as a plug. It is horribly crude. I obviously did this without the gear unit inside teh shell. That way I could clean out the small bits of alluminium swarf from the drill.
The oil sticks around for ages in there - it doesn't need to be swimming in it, though I did try that and got messy wheels. Little and often is the best regime for oil.
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I have also seen oil ports on ebay recently.
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jur, search for a 90 deg. geared "elbow" fits in your drill chuck. Failing that, a flexible shaft. Drill on the bottom of the hub, so the swarf falls away from the workpiece. To take it one step further, run your shop vac hose as close as you dare, and if the hub shell is steel, run a little magnet (like as magnetized screwdriver tip) and a bent Q-tip around inside the new hole. Swarf is your enemy.
Last edited by maunakea; 10-05-07 at 04:17 PM.
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Good tip on the elbow.
Swarf is the least of my problems right now - this hub is ally and stripped down to the shell so any swarf will be vanquished when I wash it upon receiving the spare part (still no word from SunRace).
Swarf is the least of my problems right now - this hub is ally and stripped down to the shell so any swarf will be vanquished when I wash it upon receiving the spare part (still no word from SunRace).
#45
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I have installed the 3sp wheel again, after washing everything internal and external, and put thin (Singer) oil in. I have to agree, it feels good. Tomorrow's commute will tell me how it will go.
I also washed the 8sp planet systems even cleaner, there was still gel in the sun gears, shown by drag on the gears. After washing, very little drag. I'm definitely going with thin oil for the 8sp also. I put all the internals back together, pending getting the spare planetary system, just to pop it in and ride (I hope).
Still no word from SunRace though.
I also washed the 8sp planet systems even cleaner, there was still gel in the sun gears, shown by drag on the gears. After washing, very little drag. I'm definitely going with thin oil for the 8sp also. I put all the internals back together, pending getting the spare planetary system, just to pop it in and ride (I hope).
Still no word from SunRace though.
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I have installed the 3sp wheel again, after washing everything internal and external, and put thin (Singer) oil in. I have to agree, it feels good. Tomorrow's commute will tell me how it will go.
I also washed the 8sp planet systems even cleaner, there was still gel in the sun gears, shown by drag on the gears. After washing, very little drag. I'm definitely going with thin oil for the 8sp also. I put all the internals back together, pending getting the spare planetary system, just to pop it in and ride (I hope).
Still no word from SunRace though.
I also washed the 8sp planet systems even cleaner, there was still gel in the sun gears, shown by drag on the gears. After washing, very little drag. I'm definitely going with thin oil for the 8sp also. I put all the internals back together, pending getting the spare planetary system, just to pop it in and ride (I hope).
Still no word from SunRace though.
Don't you have any recourse to the seller of the Hub? I'm assuming it is quite new. In the UK you will almost always get a year's guarantee on new items. Some try to wriggle out by alleging misuse though, or offer to send it back to the manufacturer, but in law, the buyers recourse is to the seller. People don't always realise that here and can be fobbed off. Obviously, different legal systems do things their own way.
Don't be surprised if some of your singer oil comes out at first. It took me a while to realise how little was required.
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Yes, I also wrote to the seller (aebike) and they wrote to SunRaceUSA and copied me.
I had another look at the 8sp seals; the seal at the big ball race seems rudimentary, I wonder if I would lose the oil there. I'll see if I can find a description or I'll post some pics for opinions.
I had another look at the 8sp seals; the seal at the big ball race seems rudimentary, I wonder if I would lose the oil there. I'll see if I can find a description or I'll post some pics for opinions.
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Well I received the 'spare parts' hub from aebike this past Friday. It is a used hub and missing some external parts such as the LH cone and the shifting disc on the RH side. It had been laced to a wheel as the spoke holes showed marks.
Anyway I had trouble opening it since there was nothing to hold on to when unscrewing the ball ring. I finally accepted my son's suggestion to screw it to a piece of timber, only I used nails and hammered it to a board after using a hole saw for the LH side piece to lie in. That worked well enough, once I put in big enough nails for the job, not those sissy panel pins I tried first.
The gear mech looked relatively unworn, compared to mine. I debated just dropping it in whole or just replacing the broken part, I did the latter in the end, as I like the idea of the parts being broken in and therefore running smoother.
After putting the mech back together (nope, I had no parts left over ) I oiled it using light Singer oil. I still have to drill an oil port in the hub and am also waiting for new high quality bearing balls since the old ones show signs of wear.
I will probably reassemble it to the bike in a week or two.
Still no word from Sunrace Taiwan. I actually called them and got the email addr of someone in the co. to correspond directly with. No avail. I won't be pursuing that any further. But if I did, I could probably get together another fully working hub as the one sent to me from the US appears to be fine besides the missing parts issue.
Anyway I had trouble opening it since there was nothing to hold on to when unscrewing the ball ring. I finally accepted my son's suggestion to screw it to a piece of timber, only I used nails and hammered it to a board after using a hole saw for the LH side piece to lie in. That worked well enough, once I put in big enough nails for the job, not those sissy panel pins I tried first.
The gear mech looked relatively unworn, compared to mine. I debated just dropping it in whole or just replacing the broken part, I did the latter in the end, as I like the idea of the parts being broken in and therefore running smoother.
After putting the mech back together (nope, I had no parts left over ) I oiled it using light Singer oil. I still have to drill an oil port in the hub and am also waiting for new high quality bearing balls since the old ones show signs of wear.
I will probably reassemble it to the bike in a week or two.
Still no word from Sunrace Taiwan. I actually called them and got the email addr of someone in the co. to correspond directly with. No avail. I won't be pursuing that any further. But if I did, I could probably get together another fully working hub as the one sent to me from the US appears to be fine besides the missing parts issue.
#50
Life in Mono
This is a fascinating thread Jur- please tell us how it works out ... maybe 'in anger' up that climb that killed it
I totally agree - thats why I prefer this folding forums than the roadie ones .... there is much more new stuff here .... less BS and less testosterone (and any there is, is 100% self generated !).
I totally agree - thats why I prefer this folding forums than the roadie ones .... there is much more new stuff here .... less BS and less testosterone (and any there is, is 100% self generated !).