For those of you who wanted to know all about getting into clipless pedals for commuting.

This chart is for SPD pedal comparisons.
If some characters aren't converted correctly on your computer use 'Unicode' language.
I know the chart is far from complete, but anyone who'd like to add info, please post and I'll add it.


Q: Your chart is incomplete, what about 'XXX' brand?
A: If it's popular, I'll add it.
Q: What about 'XXX' shoe? Will it fit me? does it work with SPD?
A: This chart is only intended as a comparison between SPD style pedals. It's best to get shoes at your LBS since you can try them on before you buy them. Never buy shoes online unless you have tried them.
Q: Your price is wrong! I found it cheaper at 'XXX' store/ I can't find them at your listed price!"
A: These are just search engine prices and they aren't stable just like gas prices.
Q: What about road pedals?
A: Ask the road forums.
Q: How come you don't have weights listed?
A: Don't care, durability and quality would be priority over pedal weight for commuters.
Q: So what clipless pedal should I get? No really, I'm confused, I want the best set.
A: That's up to you. Look at the chart. I don't own your wallet.
Q: What is "Float" and how does it help me?
A: Your knees are bio-mechanical and not everyone has knees that move in a perfect line when pedaling. Usually your knee will move in more of a figure 8 pattern. Float in a pedal helps to keep your knees from being restricted in a range of motion it isn't accustomed to. Also helpful when you are extremely pigeon or duck footed and rotating the cleat is not enough to allow a neutral foot position on the pedal.
Q: Which one has the best snow/mud shedding or least jamming?
A: Sorry, don't know the answer to that. IMO mud and snow can have an infinite composition and one pedal might work better than the other in certain conditions. There might be some cleat, pedal wear condition and maintenance to consider as well.
Or basically there's too many variables and marketing hype to say conclusively.


Bebop Pedals/VP One Components https://www.vpcomponents.com/ https://www.beboppedals.com/
Entry price: $90 for pair (Chromo)
Rep. Parts: Cleat $35, overhaul kit?
Availability: USA, relatively easy. International, not available.
Float type: 20° float, unrestricted (-5° heel in, +15° heel out) Easily has the most usable float for SPD pedals. Float cannot be limited. Cleats can be reversed to allow more heel in.
Quality: Good (need more data to be sure)
Notes: Cleat is quite large and doesn't allow for a lot of adjustments and you might have to cut down some of the sole to allow for proper clearance. Lighter riders should note that you can be clipped half way in only which may lead to accidental pullouts, so step firmly and check that you are properly clipped in.


Crank Brothers (Egg beater, Candy, Smarty, mallets)
Entry price: $50 for pair (Egg beater C, Candy C, Mallet, Smarty)
Rep. Parts: Cleat $20, Overhaul kit $15, Short spindle kit $40
Availability: USA, readily. International, readily.
Float type: ±5° float, unrestricted for first 5°, Spring self centering after 5° (unsure, couldn't pull up data)
Quality: Poor to Good. Mixed reviews. (I guess it depends on which level you get?)
Notes: If you want extra support other than just at the bindings, then you can get Candy, Smarty or Mallets which have platforms built in. Default spindle used sets feet wide apart, shorter spindle kit can be purchased.

LOOK Quartz
Entry price: $100 (Quartz)
Rep. Parts: Cleat $25
Availability: USA, scarce. International, no idea
Float type: 6° float (±3° Angular Float, ±1.5mm Lateral float)
Quality: Poor to Good. Mixed reviews. (I guess it depends on which level you get?)
Notes:

Shimano SPD
Entry price: $40 for pair (SPD-M520, etc.)
Rep. Parts: Cleat $10, (Overhauling, $5: Pedal tool Tl-Pd40, 3/32 ball bearings).
Availability: USA, abundant. International, abundant.
Float type: ±4° float, spring loaded self centering. Spring retention so nearly no float.
Quality: Get them and forget them, they last a while. When they break you get new ones.
Note: Nothing wrong with them if your knees work with practically no float.


Speedplay Frog
Entry price: $105 for pair (Chromo)
Rep. Parts: Cleat $35, Overhaul kit $?
Availability: USA, readily. International, readily.
Float type: +26° float, unrestricted, Heel out direction ONLY! (You actually are not clipped in at this angle.)
Quality: Pedals are decent, but the cleat binding mechanism uses an elastomer.
Notes: Binding mechanism is in the cleat, elastomer is used instead of sprung steel. Easier to perform maintenance on pedals. Easier to jam up and damage cleat than competition in muddy and rocky surfaces.


Time ATAC
Entry price: $50 for pair (ATAC Alium)
Rep. Parts: Cleat $20, Overhaul kit $?
Availability: USA, readily. International, readily.
Float type: 10° Free float (±5° and 5mm lateral)
Quality: Highly rated among couriers.
Notes: Very easy to maintain and overhaul.

XPEDO M-Force/Wellago & Topeak
Entry price: $60 (MF-3/SL-CR StainLess body-CRomo spindle)
Rep. Parts: Cleat $? Bearing kit $12
Availability: relatively available in US. (not sure about international)
Float type: 15° (±7.5° in each direction?)
Quality:
Notes:

I use both Crank Bros and BeBops. BeBops definitely have more float, but I fortunately have no knee problems that make the Crank Bros less useful.

Bebop Pedals/VP Components
entry price: $90 for pair (Chromo)
Rep. Cleats: $35
Availability: US, relatively easy to get. Outside of US, not available.
Float type: 20° claimed float, unrestricted (±10°? Can someone tell me this, I don't know.)
Quality: super quality, simple to use and maintain, great ratings/reviewsd from people who've tried them

Crank Brothers [Egg beater, Candy, mallets]
entry price: $50 for pair (Egg beater C, Candy C)
Rep. Cleats: $20
Availability: easy to get.
Float type: ±5° float, unrestricted for first 5°, Spring self centering after 5° (unsure, couldn't pull up data)
Quality: crankbros VERY poor reputation with both mechanics and LBS assistants - been warned off so many times it's not funny

Shimano SPD
entry price: $40 for pair (SPD-M520, etc.)
Rep. Cleats: $10
Availability: easily the most carried.
Float type: ±4° float, spring self centering
Quality: Get them and forget them, they last forever. Until they break, that is, and fixed toe so not true float.

Speedplay Frog
entry price: $105 for pair (Chromo, MSRP)
Rep. Cleats: $35
Availability: Relatively available, just find a speedplay seller.
Float type: +26° float, unrestricted, one direction (BEWARE! Cleat only allows Heal out float!)
Quality: Pedals are decent, but the cleat binding mechanism uses an elastomer instead of steel. Pedal requires regular maintenance.

Time ATAC
entry price: $50 for pair (ATAC Alium)
Rep. Cleats: $20
Availability: Easier to get than bebop pedals.
Float type: 10° FREE float, ±5°
Quality: bombproof quality, very easy to rebuild, the couriers' favorite pedal

Time, every time!
https://www.timesport.fr/us/home.htm
https://www.mtbr.com/reviews/manufacturers/3421/

I've got the entry level xpedos that I like pretty good. 15 degrees of float, adjustable tension, pretty nice pedal overall.

ok, fixed it up.
I just bought some bebops and egg beater Cs so I can try them out and report on those myself as well.
probably should get some time ATACs too, but no money for it, lol

Those are the wellago pedals? got a link?
I know I should probably include Wellago, but they're basically licensed remakes of the original design from the license holder company and the quality is just like the price.

https://www.xpedo.com/

I have the SL-CR's. Also, I've had 2 knee surgeries (ACL reconstruction & patellar condroplasty) in the last 3 years and I have no knee pain, commuting 5 days a week (~80 miles total riding/week). They're in the $60 range I believe, and they seem alot nicer than the shimanos in that range IMO. There is a rider weight limit on some of their Ti pedals, but we're commuters, who's going with Ti pedals?

A ride report for Crank Brothers... The Q-factor (distance from pedal to pedal) on them is a major pain. They spread my legs way too far apart for any comfortable riding.
If your legs are ok for a wide stance, then these shouldn't be a big problem, but if you like to have a narrow stance, then these will twist and hurt your knees and legs.
They'd do better if they tucked my feet in another 5~8mm each side.

Regarding the rebuild kit for the Shimano M-520 - I don't think Shimano makes one. But that pedal uses loose 3/32 ball bearings and you can replace all of them for about $2. You do need to invest in the Shimano Tl-Pd40 pedal tool to get them apart - it costs between $1.50-$2.00. And this is one of the main reasons I like Shimano SPDs... they last a long time and rebuilds are simple and cheap.

Added the overhauling for shimano spd.

I think the Crankbrother pedals are awesome as long as you get the SL models (i have the quattros, candies, and eggbeaters, all SL) and i've heard the "C" models are still pretty good if you want to save some $$$.

I've read about quality issues and breakage only with the cheaper and more expensive versions (i.e. Smarty pedals are non-rebuildable and the Ti versions have weight limits).

Rebuild kits:

https://crankbrothers.com/rebuild_kit.php?itemId=66639

$15 directly from Crankbrothers.com.

Short spindle kits (includes rebuild kit):

https://crankbrothers.com/ssu_spindle.php?itemId=82445

$40 directly from Crankbrothers.com.

Their customer service appears to be top notch, at least regarding their pedals. There's alot of stories about how people have called them up directly, said "Hi, my pedals broke...", and had a new set in the mail within a reasonable timeframe.

Very useful info!


I wanted to add few tidbits from my experience. Classification of these remarks is obviously subjective - one might say lack of free float is a bad thing, someone else the opposite. Maybe some of this could be worked into your list as "pedal features" (e.g. heel-in release: Yes / No, float adjustment: Yes / No etc.)


Bebop:
PROS:
a) easy to clip in (little need to look down)
b) plenty of float
c) low wieght and stack height
CONS:
a) when overtightened cleats (I don't have torque wrench), they wouldn't engage / release reliably. When tightened lightly, screws became loose quickly. I ended up using thread locker, to make sure they stay put and work as advertised. Other cleats I used weren't that touchy
b) I had to hack away part of the rubber on the side of the sole - I was using mountain shoes - to clear the spindle
c) no way to limit the float / change release angle. Cleats are keyed, I switched them to get a little lower release angle, but I think manufacturer warns to not to do that - so I can't recommend it


Frogs:
PROS:
a) easy to clip in
b) plenty of float
c) low weight and stack height
CONS:
a) I had occasional hiccup when trying to unclip with stationary cranks. Might be my own clumsiness, but it's easier to unclip when cranks are rotating
b) I had accidental releases when cleats began wearing out
c) no way to limit the float (plus no retention spring) - "dancing on ice cubes" might feel weird to some.
d) only heel out release, no way to limit release angle. I kept wondering if I'd be able to detach from the bike in case of a crash - not only you have to twist your heel out, but also release angle is substantial
e) when clipping in, sometimes 'click' is not there or very muted


Crank Bros (I used Smarty):
PROS:
a) very easy to clip in (entry possible from multiple sides)
b) accidental release pretty much impossible (I guess??)
c) models with substantial platform available (if problems with hot spots, or to allow riding with normal shoes)
d) heel-in / -out release
CONS:
a) no free float
b) little adjustment of release angle (switching cleats)
c) I had strange noises coming from my pedals (Smarty), after relatively little use. Since pedals are not rebuildable, I had to send them back to manufacturer, who sent me replacement pair. Might be that cheaper models don't last long (but customer support is great; I had hell of a time trying to get through to Specialized, to ask question about their pedals).
d) my clumsiness part 2: I had several hiccups trying to unclip, because spring in these pedals holds well, and requires some force to overcome it (SPDs allow adjusting retention force).


Few more notes:
There are two types of cleats for SPDs available. One with heel-out only release, the other with heel-in / -out.

Over 2-3 years I used Frogs, I lubed them maybe twice, and did not have any mechanical problems with pedals themselves; only with cleats, as relayed above.

I hope all this is all accurate, my memory is declining =).


But really: looks like great help for a clipless beginner.

I've got a different take on the Speedplay Frog:

While the RELEASE is heel-out only, I don't think it's accurate to describe the float as heel out only. You can set the inner float stop wherever you want by changing the orientation of the cleat on the shoe, all the way to the point of hitting your cranks with your ankles, if you choose. (I set the cleats so that my ankles just miss the cranks.)

Second, I think the fact that Speedplay makes it so easy to service the pedals gets mistaken for the pedals requiring more service. The bearings in all of these are pretty similar. But with Speedplay, you can regrease then by unscrewing a little bolt that covers a grease port, and injecting new lubricant. I relube mine a couple times a year. They don't need it anymore than my other pedals, but since it's so easy, why not?

Finally, running three sets for several years, I've yet to see any problems with the elastomers in the cleat, or any other "frailty" issues. Perhaps the plastic bodies don't hold up to smashing against rocks? I've also never had an accidental release.

The ONLY negative I've experienced is that the Frogs don't do well in mud and grit. But that's not much of a factor for me, and if far outweighed by the free float. Obviously, I like these pedals a lot.

Jack

added, fixed.
Thank you all for your input

I have no idea where my bebop pedals are... they should be here by now :-/

One thing I read about Bebop in the road forum is that the company who originally designed and supported them no longer exists and that the company who now distributes them doesn't give technical support. This may or may not be true but the person making the above claims seemed credible to me. You might want to check this out before you order.

According to google research that I did, VP components out of Taiwan bought out Bebop. It's not listed on VP components page, but they do still sell them. Marketing seems to be poor for the pedals and not a lot of stores carry them, but I still found the pedals and replacement cleats online and in-stock.

If i hadn't already invested in a bunch of Crankbrothers pedals, i'd love to try out the Bebops.

>If your legs are ok for a wide stance, then these shouldn't be a big problem<

Just don't use 'em in a men's room stall in the Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport, particularly if you're seated next to Larry Craig.

I have VP 133 pedals on my old MTB commuter. Although heavy they have been no hassle for the last 5 years of until recently almost daily week day use-same pedals and same cleats all conditions.

They no longer need adjusting just needs the odd spray of lube now and again.

They also work well off road and mud/debris have not been an issue.

They make a good trainer pedal as being flat they are easier to get in and out of compared to smaller pedals.

I've read a lot of negative reviews but just don't agree with them, particularly people who think they won't last long.

I actually prefer them to my more expensive CandySL crankbros pedals that I have on my crossbike.

I have two bikes set up with Quattros SLs - what is the significance of the "SL"?
fwiw I wish the Q factor was wider on my bikes. (I guess I have wide hips)

SL in most cases means forged stainless steel spindle. In the case of the eggbeaters, the body and wings are also stainless steel.

ahh thanks. Right - checked their site, the SLs as opposed to the Ti models. I'm too heavy for those anyway.

Hey not to resurrect an old thread but I've found this one helpful to me. I'm looking at a set of Crank Brothers Candy C's, and I'm concerned that they might break being the cheapest model of Crank Brothers pedals... but I guess that's what customer support is for.

As for wide stance, I'm a 36 waist and 6'6" so I've got long enough legs that hopefully the pedals will be comfortable.

Alternately I'll go with the Time ATAC pedals on Jenson USA...

I have been using Bebops for about 4 years now, and they are fantastic. Easily the longest lasting pedal I have used, and very easy to click in and out of. The only real problem is, as noted, adjusting the tensioner . . .

Also, the retention system is in the cleat, which makes a very high profile cleat that is difficult to walk in.