Hi,
I am seeking a 69cm (center to center - don't include the chimney) bike or frameset.
I know Raleigh and Schwinn have made them; Fuji may have. Would prefer a steel alloy.
My size? (In the past I keep getting this question . . .) I am 6' 3" with very long legs, arms.
With a 93.5cm standover, I have an 1.5 inches to spare!

Try Rivendell. rivbike.com Their Web specials section has some large frames in there on closeout. A couple of 66cm Rambouillet, and a 69cm double top tube A. Homer Hilsen. Steel. Not cheap.

Whoa dude! I'm 6'3" but I think I stop at a 62cm. What's your inseam - 36?

You might want to hunt around CL for Panasonics I feel like I've seen some old DX 2000, 3000s that I've thought, wow I'd get that for myself if I were freakishly tall.

Have you written Barndoor? He's your neck of the woods and equally heightful.

This ones close- a 68cm Bridgestone 400 singlespeed conversion (looks like it might have still have its derailer hanger) in good condition. only 180$

https://cgi.ebay.com/BRIDGESTONE-68cm...QQcmdZViewItem

I just don't get it beaverstuff... that is amazing. You're like an ostrich (no offense)...

I'm 6'3.5" and have a 93.5 cm standover (just measures) (that's almost 37") But the boys hand lower than that obviously.

62 is my max as they tend to have stantovers around 34.5" (35" on my 62cm track bike) yes technically that is 2.5" but don't forget the boys. I can ride 62cm frames with a vintage campy 180mm seatpost without being near the max insertion... your seat height should be 10cm below your inseam for a starting point which for me is about 83.5cm... I find this rule of thumb works for me in general give or take a cm or two.

More recently I have been enjoying the fit of a 60-61cm frame! Believe it or not I am running a campy post (at max height) on a 60.5 (c-c) gazelle and it is very comfy (i have very long arms so the drop ain't bad)... I attributed comfort with drop to physical fitness also (of which I am in poor shape).

On a 69cm frame I would imagine the standover exceeds you standover. SO how is this possible given your claimed height and standover?

Hear are a few thoughts. Have you ever had a professional fitting? They know what they are talking about and if you tell your fitter "I will not be buying a bike from you period" and just pay for the fit they won't try and fit you onto a bike that is too small.

Last week we had a monster in the shop (probably at least 6'6") and the fitter was complaining that he was pointing his toes like crazy which made it difficult to get the seat height right. Well one should ask why he is pointing his toes and I will venture that because 175mm is the maximum standard crank size, our fitter was using that length to fit this fellow on a bike. STANDARD CRANK SIZES ARE TOO SHORT FOR US! Period. I like 180mm but also have a set of 185mm cranks. I enthusiastically you to encourage the purcahse of longer cranks... if money is an issue watch ebay 180mm TA pro-5-vis cranks come up all the time and can be had for under $100 and provide unlimited gearing options. I know because my room mate and myself has each purchased a set this year and I have seen many sets go simultaneously. This will activate more muscles in your upper leg which will cause you not to point your toes so much. This is also the reason I think my room mate tends to run his seatposts quite high (he has many bikes with 170mm cranks and toe clips that are short). Which brings me to my next point. If you run clipless slam your cleats to the back or even consider having your shoes modified so they can be mounted further back. If will feel strange at first (and so will longer cranks) but that is because your legs are used to being squeezed on to average size person parts. If you run clips make sure they are XL or don't run clips at all. Get that ball slightly ahead of the axle and try to push down with a flat rigid foot instead of pointing your does. Cycling shoes will help as they have rigid soles.

Those are my thoughts.... you and I are essentially the same size based on just height and your standover measure.

P.S.

My room mate is 6'5" and finds his 65cm (35 3/4" standover) to be a perfect fit.

I did a rough calc and figure a 64 to 66 cm bike should fit, based on the standover you gave (it's a rough guide). Top tube length makes a difference too - you might be on a bike that's too short or the stem is too short and you feel like it's too small when it's really not long enough. Keep in mind that many older factory frames were made with short top tubes. For example I have a 62cm frame I can ride only because it has a 56 cm top tube, even though it has a 34.5 inch standover and I've got clearance for 35 with shoes on (I'm 6' 0). My best fitting frame is a 58 with a 57 TT.

cyclotoine's recommendation for using a longer crank is a good one. A longer crank also also helps to lower the seat height, which puts the seat and bars closer to the same height. I like 175mm and can only imagine that someone 6'3" would like 180mm cranks.

This guy is also really tall, and has a bit to say about it:
https://www.zinncycles.com/cranks.aspx

What size bike are you on now, and what sizes have you tried?

This one's 68.6 cm: Fuji Sagres

Another tall Fuji, 27" frame, 37" standover height.

this is off-topic and not very helpful but why does it seem like people from baltimore are so often tall and long-legged? strange phenomenon.

cyclotoine was talkign crank length. I got a Zinn custom steel bike and it kicks butt so hard it makes your feet hurt. it has 210mm cranks. they are great. they're great. can't say it enough.
it does start the knee pain due to crank length debate, but they are in proportion to me. Zinn says avg height of race biker, and just equalizes it to your size to get your length.
You can golf as a tall person with short clubs, but you are inhibited. bike riding the same way. if you think you will be biking long term, it is worth the investment. you always go for the most comfy shoes when you get dressed right? when your bike fits, you ride it more. Get a good frame and build it with a cheaper group.
then you can try and score some of these other bikes off ebay and waht not for rain bikes or townies.
the bridgestone looks sweet though.

Awesome, can we see some photos and hear some details like frame size, BB height etc? How tall are you and what is your cycling inseam? Just to get some ideas. Zinn would put me up around 200mm but I went the cheeper route as I could not afford a zinn frame with cranks... of course anything over 185 would have been too long for a traditional bike. Zinn's crank length thing seems a little extreme to me. I like 185mm cranks alot but 180mm feel better to me which makes me think his method might be a little extremist. I did a lot of research on the topic and there are other more conservative proponents of crank length also. Starting out by trying 180s is good as they are cheep. My Ta cranks cost nearly $400 but it was worth it too try. I would love to try even longer cranks on a custom Zinn someday but I may never get the chance.

I've talked to Barndoor; he had a 71cm Panasonic up on Ebay; was asking a bit much.
Offered a little less after auction; truth is he really didn't want to sell it.
Resurrected it as a fixie.

Thanks, but it's only a half cm bigger than my Fujis.

Ostrich is a good description; I'm all legs and arms. My inseam is 35inches; sleeve length is 36.
The 93.5cm standover, for both my Fujis, gives me an 1.5 inches to spare.
I'm a roadie and I like the humongous look. Bobby Phillips, my friend, says I need to use a trampoline (Hah) to get on it. What does he know?? He wouldn't steal what he can't ride!!

If there was ever a case for a custom frame, this is it.

Crank length is an aspect; I use a 170/52 with 13,14,16,18 . . . cogs.
I'm currently riding either Fuji in my signature - they're the same size - 67.5cm c-c.

Hey,
It looks like the brother of my Chicago Fuji. I say Chicago in honor of a friend who shipped it to me.
You must have included the chimney in your measurement.

Actually, I'm a Michigan boy. Graduated HS from Muskegon; 1970 from Michigan Tech - Go Huskies!
After 35 years, I put the skates back on and am playing in a 50+ pickup league!!
Skate or die!

Golfing is different; tried that, too. I always tried to kill the ball - wrong, wrong.
What you said about comfort is right on!! I had a 63cm (c-c) Wamsley and a 63cm Dawes; they were nice, but, I felt a little cramped. What I truly can't understand is why people are ignoring what I said in my OP - I keep getting these comments about me and not a bike I'm seeking. Merry Xmas - bah, humbug.

I'm 6'6" on a 24" (~61cm) road bike and a 22.5" MTB.

I'd like a 62 or 63cm bike eventually, 64cm worst case.

But the 61 is working fine for most things. 38" inseam, so it's a tad small, but most of my rides are < 30 miles.

Most of my rides are either 10 or 20 miles - no more.
Arthritis in my wrists and left knee really act up when I do more.
I need to watch my shifting - tending toward pedal rate rather than torque.
Again, comfort is the key.
On the C & O Canal, adjacent to the Patomac River, I use my recumbent.
No hills, no pressure on the wrists.

I took out an unsecured loan for the bike after months and months of seeing inferior bikes on ebay and not being able to afford them.
If I had it to do over again, I would get a frame and the cranks and just get the bike going with a cheaper group.
I'd have to find the papers, and it ain't tonite, to find the dimensions if they're even in there. I don't even know what tubing he uses (it's a steel bike)or how much it weighs, or any specs. but I know it rides great, and holds up under my 250lbs impeccably at high speed. If I sit back in the saddle at 35mph or more, no hands, then the frame wobbles a little bit, but if I weight my feet a little bit, it is super steady. and that requires chip and seal roads, and crosswinds! it is a great frame.
I am 6'8". no idea what my cycling inseam is! None of my pants actually fit anyway! but the 210 cranks are worth every penny. no idea what they weigh, but it doesn't matter. the cranks are proportional to my body, as a pro cyclists are sized to their body. were are using the same process and mechanics, just with larger parts. I need to work in his sales dept(garage).
Damn- maybe I should sell this other bike I got that is the same size in order to get a zinn mtb.....

nothing wrong with showing another bike shot...
black is the Zinn, red one is a Banke??? frame I got that someone else stripped for it's parts, and cut it's custom steel fork!!! to hell for that one. still needs a fork. I could build it tomorrow with that fork!
I'm spoiled, the first shot is my inaugural ride on the Zinn up Mt evans in CO...in the garage next to my 63c-c schwinn single speed....gratuitous shot of my dog as a puppy growing with a size 15 converse weapon for scale....

I am 6'04" with a 92.5 cm standover. I ride a 62 cm c to c. I used the Lemond sizing method (.67 x standover). But they do say that for people taller than 6'00" will need a bigger frame than the 0.67 x standover. I do have a bit more than the traditional "fist" worth of post showing, but the bike has a relatively long top tube + a longish stem too. I fell nice an stretched out without killing my lower back + usually ride 35-50 miles at a time.

I just checked the Zinn website and after doing all the Zinn measurements (you will need help from someone else for the arm measurement), turns out I have the right size frame! I always thought it was quite comfy -now I have proof!

Beaverstuff,
Add PUCH to your list of possible framesets. I just returned a 69cm framed bike to its owner after making repairs. Only problem is this little 5'9" guy couldn't test ride it!
I believe it was a late 70s model, certainly low end, but BIG.