Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
Reload this Page >

"Long" reach nutted brakes for 27" to 700c conversion

Search
Notices
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

"Long" reach nutted brakes for 27" to 700c conversion

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-12-08 | 11:32 PM
  #1  
tad
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
"Long" reach nutted brakes for 27" to 700c conversion

Many of us are converting frames designed for older 27" wheels to use modern 700c wheels. A common problem is brake reach - such that when you swap in the smaller wheels, your brake calipers don't reach quite far enough. Most modern brake assemblies a) are very short reach and b) use recessed nuts for mounting.

On older frames, you basically have two options (as I understand it).
1) Find older nutted long-reach brakes that fit (by nutted brakes, I mean brakes that have the full length bolt that reaches all the way through the fork, etc, allowing you to use a standard nut). This is an increasingly difficult option.

2) Find long reach recessed brakes and drill out the back of your fork, etc to accept the recessed nut.

Well, I didn't want to go with #2, so I began the search for long-reach nutted brakes. I'm also sick of messing with centerpulls (coming from mafac racers), so I wanted a dual-pivot caliper design. I originally picked up the Tektro 800a for $18 (https://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?IGPK=2126175524). However, I wasn't thrilled with the quality and didn't like that they lacked the "quick release lever" for the brake cable. So, I also picked up a pair of the Tektro R556 calipers for $45 (https://aebike.com/page.cfm?action=de...=30&SKU=BR7303). As it turns out, the bolts are interchangeable! After a little work disassembling the calipers, I'm left with a NUTTED R556 set and a recessed 800a set!

Awesome. I've mounted the Nutted R556's on my bike and they look great - definitely a nicer brake than the 800a's. Of course, if you're just looking for the cheapest possible solution, the 800a's might be sufficient by themselves. Anyway - just wanted to share my findings and hopefully save the next guy the hassle.




tad is offline  
Reply
Old 09-12-08 | 11:52 PM
  #2  
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Thanks for the write up. I ran into this problem myself, as i just ordered a brake kit from bike island without considering the fit.

I am too short on reach, and mounting is not going to happen. I will have to order that first set you mentioned and see if I like them all right.

Fortunately the brakes that dont fit my conversion, do fit my other bike.
rmstephenson is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-08 | 09:33 PM
  #3  
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0

Bikes: miyata 610

I've run into a problem with the reach of the bolt not passing through the fork all the way on the r556 caliper. are you saying that you can swap out the bolt in favor of a longer one on the brake itself?
redmedicine is offline  
Reply
Old 09-14-08 | 10:10 PM
  #4  
tad
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by redmedicine
I've run into a problem with the reach of the bolt not passing through the fork all the way on the r556 caliper. are you saying that you can swap out the bolt in favor of a longer one on the brake itself?
EXACTLY. You buy the Tektro 800a JUST for the long bolts and regular nuts. Then you disassemble the R556's and remove the short bolts/recessed nuts. You REPLACE them with the bolts from the Tektro 800a's. This leaves you with a really nice set of brakes (R556) with bolts long enough to reach through older frames and use regular nuts.

Essentially, you're paying $18 for longer bolts, but that was fine by me. (Of course, you can also swap the recessed nuts/short bolts onto the 800a set and end up with a recessed set of 800a's, which is what I did... although I don't have a use for them (yet)).

Originally, I didn't understand why I just couldn't use *any* bolt as a replacement. I didn't realize until I took apart the caliper that it has step threading - one set of threads holds the first-pivot caliper to the mount (secured by a recessed allen screw) and the second set of threads allows the nut to thread on.
tad is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-08 | 01:27 AM
  #5  
Newbie
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
So I was a little confused on the last bit you just posted up. Is it not possible to buy the R556 brakes and just use the longer bolt from my older brake set, seeing as it's already cut to the proper lenght for my frame? And if the answer's no, is there any way to simply buy that bolt somewhere where I am not spending 18 bucks on it and ending up with a set of brakes I'll probably never use?

...Thanks for the post up by the way, I'm doing my first single speed conversion from an old schwinn worldsport frame I have and this problem didn't even occur to me untill I caught your thread. Thanks for the heads up.
earth_pig is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-08 | 04:59 AM
  #6  
bbattle's Avatar
.
Sheldon Brown Memorial - Donating
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 12,769
Likes: 38
From: Rocket City, No'ala

Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose

I've searched the world over for those dang bolts and haven't found them yet. I bought a pair of the Tektros(actually Rivendell's version called Silver) and the rear brake bolt just isn't long enough and I didn't want to drill the fork for the recessed nut.

Another option is to simply buy two front Tektro R556s.

Here's what NOT to do for your rear brake:

bike is presently sitting at the LBS to get this brake bolt fixed; one of the mechanics is a long time pack rat and probably has some bolts that may work. We'll see when he gets back from vacation.

Note the 27" rims; the long reach brakes were still necessary on this old Raleigh Sprite.
bbattle is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-08 | 12:17 PM
  #7  
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0

Bikes: miyata 610

thanks so much for your help! this is exactly the information i have been looking for!
redmedicine is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-08 | 12:31 PM
  #8  
rawthentic menergy
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 184
Likes: 0

Bikes: 2005 johnny coast cycles #4 track, 1971 peugeot px-10 road, gt performer 1986 PINK bmx, 1966 raleigh rodeo 3-speed STICK SHIFT 20", 1960s rollfast tandem, 1970s raleigh fixed

Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to just drill the fork to take a recessed nut? You can use the longer front axle on the rear, and the rear brake on the front with a longer recessed nut.

I posted the following in another thread ("brake mounting bolt not long enough?") 11 days ago -
Originally Posted by stachemaster
Didn't see it mentioned above, but for anyone wanting to run two recessed-nut brakes on a old frame: what mount the new front brake on the rear, making sure to swap the pads around so the pads dont slide out of their cartridges, and fix with a regular nut.
mount the new rear brake on the fork (again, swapping the pags l-r) after drilling out, and use a longer recessed nut (like one for a carbon fork) to hit the bolt. your brakes should've come with several recessed nuts of different lengths.
stachemaster is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-08 | 12:37 PM
  #9  
malpag3's Avatar
takin' it to the streets
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
From: Denv-arrrgghhh

Bikes: 1999 Kona Kapu; late 70's/early 80's Araya road bike/commuter bike.

Dammit man, where were you like 2 weeks ago when I faced this problem.

I ended up drilling out my steel frame with a 5/16 bit. It hurt to do as I didn't lube the bit, and it bit into the steel pretty nastily.

Anyway, it ended up working, but now the reach really isn't as long as advertised and doesn't seem to be doing the best job in the world. I'll post pics.

FWIW, I have Tektro R538 Long Reach (or so they told me).

Edited to add: that's my thread mentioned above.
malpag3 is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-08 | 12:59 PM
  #10  
malpag3's Avatar
takin' it to the streets
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
From: Denv-arrrgghhh

Bikes: 1999 Kona Kapu; late 70's/early 80's Araya road bike/commuter bike.

PS is that a Peugot?
malpag3 is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-08 | 01:10 PM
  #11  
rawthentic menergy
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 184
Likes: 0

Bikes: 2005 johnny coast cycles #4 track, 1971 peugeot px-10 road, gt performer 1986 PINK bmx, 1966 raleigh rodeo 3-speed STICK SHIFT 20", 1960s rollfast tandem, 1970s raleigh fixed

malpag, there's long reach, and then there's extra long reach.
tektro r538 - brake reach 47-57mm (long compared to short reach, but pretty standard. similar to older shimano 600)
tektro r556 - brake reach 55-73mm (wow that's long)

Buyer beware, and google does help.
stachemaster is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-08 | 01:15 PM
  #12  
malpag3's Avatar
takin' it to the streets
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
From: Denv-arrrgghhh

Bikes: 1999 Kona Kapu; late 70's/early 80's Araya road bike/commuter bike.

Dammit all! The folks I ordered it from just had this listed... "TEKTROR538 DUAL PVT CAIPR SLVR QR LONG REACH"

not the most helpful, eh?
malpag3 is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-08 | 02:31 PM
  #13  
tad
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by earth_pig
So I was a little confused on the last bit you just posted up. Is it not possible to buy the R556 brakes and just use the longer bolt from my older brake set, seeing as it's already cut to the proper lenght for my frame? And if the answer's no, is there any way to simply buy that bolt somewhere where I am not spending 18 bucks on it and ending up with a set of brakes I'll probably never use?

...Thanks for the post up by the way, I'm doing my first single speed conversion from an old schwinn worldsport frame I have and this problem didn't even occur to me untill I caught your thread. Thanks for the heads up.
That's what this part of my post was intended to address:
"Originally, I didn't understand why I just couldn't use *any* bolt as a replacement. I didn't realize until I took apart the caliper that it has step threading - one set of threads holds the first-pivot caliper to the mount (secured by a recessed allen screw) and the second set of threads allows the nut to thread on."

They are special bolts with two different sets of threads. The whole point of buying the 800a's is just to get the bolts, so if you can find them somewhere else then for all means go for it. BUT - this type of bolt is specific to dual-pivot caliper designs. So, your old brakes would need to be dual pivot AND use the proper threading (in order for you to be able to swap in your old bolts).
tad is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-08 | 05:02 PM
  #14  
cab horn
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto

Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione

"So let's basically go to a world of trouble because we were too lazy to drill out the back of the fork" thread. Excellent.
operator is offline  
Reply
Old 09-15-08 | 05:04 PM
  #15  
malpag3's Avatar
takin' it to the streets
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
From: Denv-arrrgghhh

Bikes: 1999 Kona Kapu; late 70's/early 80's Araya road bike/commuter bike.

"So let's basically go to a world of trouble because we were too lazy to drill out the back of the fork" thread. Excellent.
I would have, or my wrist would have, liked to avoid that whole drilling through steel episode of a few weeks ago.
malpag3 is offline  
Reply
Old 09-16-08 | 10:06 PM
  #16  
tad
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by malpag3
PS is that a Peugot?
indeed it is. my dad's old ride (with some modifications :-) )

tad is offline  
Reply
Old 09-17-08 | 01:06 AM
  #17  
hate on bike commies
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 124
Likes: 0

Bikes: 1972 Falcon Special San Remo - Road, early 90s Alessandro/Guerciotti - road, Nishiki Prestige, Ross Superior, Peugeot UO-8,

px-10?
quanmunist is offline  
Reply
Old 09-17-08 | 01:16 AM
  #18  
rawthentic menergy
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 184
Likes: 0

Bikes: 2005 johnny coast cycles #4 track, 1971 peugeot px-10 road, gt performer 1986 PINK bmx, 1966 raleigh rodeo 3-speed STICK SHIFT 20", 1960s rollfast tandem, 1970s raleigh fixed

nope. no nervex, no chroming of the rear triangle, no simplex dropouts.
stachemaster is offline  
Reply
Old 09-17-08 | 09:10 AM
  #19  
tad
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by quanmunist
px-10?
uo-8. heaaavy.
tad is offline  
Reply
Old 09-17-08 | 10:45 AM
  #20  
malpag3's Avatar
takin' it to the streets
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,093
Likes: 0
From: Denv-arrrgghhh

Bikes: 1999 Kona Kapu; late 70's/early 80's Araya road bike/commuter bike.

awesome.
malpag3 is offline  
Reply
Old 09-22-08 | 02:54 AM
  #21  
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0

Bikes: miyata 610

was there something special that i'm missing needed in order to swap the bolts from the two calipers? i just got my 800a's in and was trying to take the bolt out, but i'm not having much luck. any tricks/tips would be great, thanks
redmedicine is offline  
Reply
Old 09-22-08 | 12:30 PM
  #22  
tad
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by redmedicine
was there something special that i'm missing needed in order to swap the bolts from the two calipers? i just got my 800a's in and was trying to take the bolt out, but i'm not having much luck. any tricks/tips would be great, thanks
Did you remove the allen set screw? There is a small (2mm, i think) allen screw on the underside of the caliper. This screw comes into contact with the main bolt to hold it in position. It functions to control the spacing between the two arms of the caliper, so they don't rub together when the brake is functioning. You must remove this bolt first.

If you've already tried to remove the main bolt, you probably slightly damaged the threads on the main bolt. So once you remove the allen set screw (and the spring!) you'll have to put some force on the main bolt to get it out.

Let me know if that isn't clear and I can take a pic of my 800a's when I get home.
tad is offline  
Reply
Old 09-23-08 | 07:54 PM
  #23  
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0

Bikes: miyata 610

thanks, that was the clue i needed, it all worked out great!
redmedicine is offline  
Reply
Old 10-25-08 | 06:17 PM
  #24  
bmaxwell's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 729
Likes: 1
From: Poulsbo Washington

Bikes: Nishiki Saga, Nishiki Olympic

thanks for all this info... I am over on the C&V classic and vintage site and I am doing a conversion of a road bike and this is the information I am needing ... I just ordered the 800A's today, but it looks like the cheap fix isn't so cheap after all.... oh well..... at least I know what the fis is.
bmaxwell is offline  
Reply
Old 10-25-08 | 08:54 PM
  #25  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 413
Likes: 0
Or drill the fork and buy two front brake calipers. It's not like drilling the fork is a decision you will ever regret.
deadforkinglast is offline  
Reply


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.