First build.
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
First build.
Hi,
I am new to this forum and will make my first thread count.
I would like to build a fixed gear bike but have NO idea where to begin. I am on a budget and only have a frame. After reading several threads I decided that this community may have the most paramount information on the topic that I need discussed.
What parts does a fixie need for it to be complete? Anybody have a list?
And, does anybody have the links or resources to build up a fixie (frame not needed, already own) under $300 without it being a two wheeled nightmare?
Thanks.
I am new to this forum and will make my first thread count.
I would like to build a fixed gear bike but have NO idea where to begin. I am on a budget and only have a frame. After reading several threads I decided that this community may have the most paramount information on the topic that I need discussed.
What parts does a fixie need for it to be complete? Anybody have a list?
And, does anybody have the links or resources to build up a fixie (frame not needed, already own) under $300 without it being a two wheeled nightmare?
Thanks.
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
What kind of frame is it? Is it the right size for you? If not, don't even start building until you have the right sized frame.
Then consider what parts to get that will make your ride the correct size for you. Here's a good article: https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
Remember when buying cranks, especially if you are doing a road bike conversion (not starting with a track frame) the BB height will lower, therefore you have to consider crank arm length so you don't get pedal strike.
Building a bike CORRECTLY is just not throwing parts on it. You have to get correct lengths/sizes of parts that fit you, starting with the frame.
Then consider what parts to get that will make your ride the correct size for you. Here's a good article: https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
Remember when buying cranks, especially if you are doing a road bike conversion (not starting with a track frame) the BB height will lower, therefore you have to consider crank arm length so you don't get pedal strike.
Building a bike CORRECTLY is just not throwing parts on it. You have to get correct lengths/sizes of parts that fit you, starting with the frame.
#7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
I'm aware of the fitting process.
I am converting an old fuji ten speed. I'd just like reliable cheap parts with explanations of their purpose on the fixed speed (brief ones, before anyone says "google it!").
I am converting an old fuji ten speed. I'd just like reliable cheap parts with explanations of their purpose on the fixed speed (brief ones, before anyone says "google it!").
#10
I'll lay this out step by step for you:
1. Go buy an aerospoke. Preferrably black so that it can match the CF seatpost you are going to soon buy
2. Go buy a carbon fiber seat post. It doesn't have to be name brand. Hell, have it be a steel seat post with carbonfauxber tape on it.
3. Obviously buy a sweet veep to slap on the rear*
4. Go and buy some nitto b-123 bars with some grips*
5. Get a really sweet chain* from your LBS
6. Get a BB, make sure it is gold. Brand obviously doesn't matter because no one can easily see the brand name.
7. Get the most expensive cranks you can (only go by looks, performance doesn't actually matter.) Make sure that your chain width doesn't match the crank width
8. Go out and get a cinelli alter
9. Go and buy some somas for both the front and rear, you are going to be doing so much skidding
10. Buy some skinny jeans, and some black vans
11. Look at your bike, find out what is missing, go and buy those parts at random.
12. Realize you don't like riding fixed, and put your bike up on craigslist for more than the collective price of all your parts
ta-daa
1. Go buy an aerospoke. Preferrably black so that it can match the CF seatpost you are going to soon buy
2. Go buy a carbon fiber seat post. It doesn't have to be name brand. Hell, have it be a steel seat post with carbonfauxber tape on it.
3. Obviously buy a sweet veep to slap on the rear*
4. Go and buy some nitto b-123 bars with some grips*
5. Get a really sweet chain* from your LBS
6. Get a BB, make sure it is gold. Brand obviously doesn't matter because no one can easily see the brand name.
7. Get the most expensive cranks you can (only go by looks, performance doesn't actually matter.) Make sure that your chain width doesn't match the crank width
8. Go out and get a cinelli alter
9. Go and buy some somas for both the front and rear, you are going to be doing so much skidding
10. Buy some skinny jeans, and some black vans
11. Look at your bike, find out what is missing, go and buy those parts at random.
12. Realize you don't like riding fixed, and put your bike up on craigslist for more than the collective price of all your parts
ta-daa
#11
Handlebar: A handlebar is a metal bar that...
HAHAHAHAHA Do you really expect someone to write a letter to you on how to build a bike???!!!
READ THE STICKY AT THE TOP OF THE FORUM: https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/510358-fixed-gear-single-speed-start-here.html
No-********-body is going to hold your hand through an entire build from the ground up. Maybe your mom, but that's about the only person with enough patience to do so.
This forum helps those who help themselves.
(Sorry man, you sort of asked for that)
#12
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
It's cool that you're getting into the whole fixed gear 'thing'. Just don't be foolish.
Last edited by Scrodzilla; 07-07-09 at 06:10 AM.
#14
Oh, you know...
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,834
Likes: 0
From: DC
Bikes: '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
Everyone is being a jerk, but if you've got a bare frame you will basically need:
Wheelset - you can buy complete wheelsets at a lot of places.
I like BWW: https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/
Cog\Lockring - Your wheelset will probably come with one, but if it doesn't, get one.
Bottom bracket - find out what threading your frame has, and get one like that. Everyone sells them. Just get the 103mm shimano since you're too lazy to research chainline.
https://bikeisland.com/index.cgi
https://www.benscycle.net/
Cranks - Get some cheap suginos or something.
Pedals/straps/cages - Pick something, doesnt matter.
Chainring - 44T or 46T are common. Make sure it's the right BCD for whatever cranks you get.
Seatpost - its the post your saddle goes on
Saddle - its the seat your seatpost goes in
Headset/handlebars - bullhorns make you look the coolest, but risers are the best for barspinz
Tires - go to your lbs and get the $15 ones
there you go
Wheelset - you can buy complete wheelsets at a lot of places.
I like BWW: https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/
Cog\Lockring - Your wheelset will probably come with one, but if it doesn't, get one.
Bottom bracket - find out what threading your frame has, and get one like that. Everyone sells them. Just get the 103mm shimano since you're too lazy to research chainline.
https://bikeisland.com/index.cgi
https://www.benscycle.net/
Cranks - Get some cheap suginos or something.
Pedals/straps/cages - Pick something, doesnt matter.
Chainring - 44T or 46T are common. Make sure it's the right BCD for whatever cranks you get.
Seatpost - its the post your saddle goes on
Saddle - its the seat your seatpost goes in
Headset/handlebars - bullhorns make you look the coolest, but risers are the best for barspinz
Tires - go to your lbs and get the $15 ones
there you go
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Take it from somebody who's gone through this many, many times over and I think I've finally learned my lesson - don't go cheap.
If $300 is your budget, I'd recommend looking for a nice used bike on CL or go to Bikes Direct or find a good sale at a bike shop. You can get a Schwinn Cutter at Performance for $269, or a stock Kilo (which has been recommended). With a 100% satisfaction guarantee at Performance (believe me, I've taken them up on that) and free adjustments for life, going that route (or something similar) is the safest way to go, especially for a n00b.
FWIW, that Kilo from BikesDirect is a real bargain and a looker. With this being offered on the market at that price, the toss up between converting and buying stock is a no brainer.
Last edited by Dion Rides; 07-07-09 at 07:58 AM.
#17
Oh, you know...
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,834
Likes: 0
From: DC
Bikes: '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
Yeah I agree 100% that he won't be able to do it for $300, and it'll be a lower quality bike, but apparently he's got a frame he really wants to use and has said so a couple times. Saying "just sell that frame and get a KiloTT" is kinda being a jerk, because it's not what the guy wants to do. I'm sure he has his reasons for sticking with this frame.
#18
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Well, I did learn something from this. It might just be better to upgrade parts along the way rather than start from scratch.
The Kilo TT seems to take the unanimous decision on best starter bike. However, should I dish out extra cash for the Pro? (performance, not aesthetics)
Special thanks to dsh, you pretty much listed what I needed. Thanks, bud.
Scrod and Dion; thanks, as well.
The Kilo TT seems to take the unanimous decision on best starter bike. However, should I dish out extra cash for the Pro? (performance, not aesthetics)
Special thanks to dsh, you pretty much listed what I needed. Thanks, bud.
Scrod and Dion; thanks, as well.
#19
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
From: dirty meda
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle, 1981 Gios Aerodynamic, Giant Boulder
buy the dang kilo off bikesdirect if you're trying to stay within $300
but i guarantee you that you'll spend a lot more than $300 on it eventually
but i guarantee you that you'll spend a lot more than $300 on it eventually
#20
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
Yeah I agree 100% that he won't be able to do it for $300, and it'll be a lower quality bike, but apparently he's got a frame he really wants to use and has said so a couple times. Saying "just sell that frame and get a KiloTT" is kinda being a jerk, because it's not what the guy wants to do. I'm sure he has his reasons for sticking with this frame.
You'll end up with a decent bike using the original frame you had in mind and may even keep it under $300 when all's said and done.
#21
Building a bike realistically takes months for various reasons such as finding the right parts, the right price, re-buying after buying the wrong parts, waiting or backorders to come in...
Walk down to your local shop and buy one and ride today. If they don't have it in stock, they can have it within a week. Or, order online and have it in a week or two. Keep in mind that when you buy online:
- You can't try it on to make sure it fits
- If you have any issues you will have to pack it up and send it back. That is a BIG pain in the a**. No over the counter service like at a shop.
- You will not get any free tuneups or free advice.
#22
those are the reason's he's asking.
OP,go build your own bike if that's what you want to do.
read lots of sheldonbrown.com.
if the kilo's not for you, then it's not for you. it's as simple as that.
its really not that hard and shouldnt take "months", hell i could convert a bike in hours, and so could you if you do it right, and measure twice/cut once.
OP,go build your own bike if that's what you want to do.
read lots of sheldonbrown.com.
if the kilo's not for you, then it's not for you. it's as simple as that.
its really not that hard and shouldnt take "months", hell i could convert a bike in hours, and so could you if you do it right, and measure twice/cut once.
#23
also, this is a bad place to ask.
dsh laid out a plan pretty well for you.
there is no way you cant get a decent bike up and running for less than 300 dollars.
People here will say you cant because their e-peen is measured by the useless parts they spent way too much money on.
Most act like inexpensive origin-8 parts will just die the second you get out of the saddle to sprint or something! LOL.
dsh laid out a plan pretty well for you.
there is no way you cant get a decent bike up and running for less than 300 dollars.
People here will say you cant because their e-peen is measured by the useless parts they spent way too much money on.
Most act like inexpensive origin-8 parts will just die the second you get out of the saddle to sprint or something! LOL.
#24
Bikasaurus Rex
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
I say build the bike your gonna learn a **** tone more about the process if you take it piece by piece...dsh gave you a starting point just keep geekin out on sheldonbrown and archived forums and you'll learn. It halso helps to spend alot of time at your lbs, they may not be fixed gear experts but they are the most simple bikes out their and you can learn alot from those guys...Make sure you have someone show you the right way to put parts on your bike and use lots of grease...Oh yeah you may get your bike rideable for 300 nut that won't be the end if you really enjoyed getting there.



