Bought a Fixed/Fixed Hub....
 

Hi! New the Forums + new(ish) to the fixed world.

Long story short - I bought a new Hub and wanted to go with Fixed/Fixed so I could experiment with different cog teeth combinations, but I am not sure what to do? I have done some research but I am really indecisive. Prior to the new hub I was running 48/16 which i liked, seemed to suit my commute + rides, but I wouldn't know any better. I have not been able to successfully skid yet. Not sure if it has anything to do with the fact i have 1 skid patch with that combo? (jc) I am probably just doing something wrong, but not losing any sleep over the fact I can't skid.

My chain ring is 48, and that isn't changing. I was thinking going with 16 and then 17 or 18. Looking for any tips, advice AND product recommendation.

THANKS!
-c

What you are doing wrong is trying to skid. Get a brake. Your tires will thank you.

I learned to skid on a 48/16 gearing. Currently sticking with 48/17 now.

I used to run 48/17, I really liked it. Now I'm on 46/16 which really nice. The thing is 48/16 is light enough that you never really have to skid, backpedaling is sufficient, also, if you don't already, learn to skip stop, that's the fastest way to stop w/o a brake and it's a hell of a lot better for your tires than skidding

Tried 46x18, it was fun but not enough top end oomph. Moved onto 48x17 on my fixed. I prefer that.

I still run 46x16 on my SS but 48x17 on fixed is my favorite.

I am not really sure tbh, as of now I have been trying to do it with pedals+straps while sitting. I assume that sitting has not really helped. Track bars are on the bike atm so haven't tried standing/leaning forward.

Have a brake and really do not see myself ever removing it. The whole reason I bought a new hub was because the threads on my last stripped mid ride, due to cross-threading (not my fault.) Not having a brake when that happened would have been bad news bears for me.

Cog suggestions? Looking for something nice that will last.

As of now I do not know how to skid stop, but i find backpedaling to be sufficient. I only use my brake in emergency situations.

no not skid stop, skip stop, you pull up your rear and stop pedaling while it's in the air, 100-0 real quick

Okay skidding while being seated is pretty damn hard. Well for a lot of people. Try raising your ass of the seat when you skid.

And I do a combo of skid stops, skip stops, and backpedaling to slow down. (skids are only used because they are fun, I primarily use the other two techniques).


My suggestion is to try a 17 tooth cog. Many skid patches. Also, a higher cog tooth count will make skidding and climbing a little easier. I'd say that 48/17 is probably the most used ratio for people who have a mix of hills and flat ground.

Protip: balls to stem. This will help you brake traction with the rear wheel by shifting your body weight more so toward the front.

Ambidextrous skidding & seated skids will come in due time and practice assuming you outlive the average brakeless rider. #getabrake

I miss the 48/17 I had on my old bike ��

ohhhhhh! ok yeah... that is going to take some practicing. :lol:

Yeah and im 180/190lbs so I am sure that doesn't help either.

Thanks!

Yeah, have one and I don't plan on removing it either.

So seems like 17t is a definite. I dug around a bit, but anywhere I can look to find info on choosing a well made cog? Trying to shift my thinking to just buying it right the first time.

If you plan on skidding and want to use a variety of gears, get a chainring with a prime number tooth count, e.g. 43T or 47T. That way you'll always have the maximum possible number of skid patches (equal to the number of teeth on the rear cog) regardless of the tooth count of the rear cog.

Good stuff.

This online skidspot tool is awesome:

https://www.surplace.fr/ffgc/
For example 49x17 would you give you more than enough skid spots. :)

I'm 6'2" and 185 lbs.

And I really need to start skidding ambidextrous.

Awesome. thanks guys. I appreciate all the help.

Where can I find info on a good cog to buy? I dont want to buy a crap one.

EAI or dura ace. You can get dirt cheap used dura ace track stuff off ebay.

It's even more important to get a decent steel lockring too; dura ace makes the best one for less than $10 on amazon.

Cool ty

yeah... this was my hub that I am replacing :( thread pixie dust...

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=443906

Second for eai cogs. Also important, get a good chain whip and a plier type lock ring tool. The hook type suck. It is really easy to make your own if you have the stuff around to do it.

Lock ring pliers are a bit pricey but worth every penny.

Lock ring spanners are inferior put in comparison of ease of use but they're still plenty useful provided you get a good one like from hozan or park. They just take more intuition and slightly more effort to use.

I prefer the Shimano lockring/chainwhip for the long handle and grip. I don't like the Hozan so much because it friggin hurts the hand to use sometimes.

Seriously thanks so much to everyone for being so helpful. Glad I didn't get trolled or anything by you guys.

So in a jam a month ago I bought the Park Chain Whip + Park Lockring wrench/spanner . Chain whip = great. Loved that you could use the hole at the bottom for a freewheel removal tool, that was a huge help seeing as I dont have a vice lying around at my tiny apt. Lockring wrench = ehhh. Definitely had a hard time getting the right angle + a good grip.

Just looked up how to make my own, looks fun. I love a good mini project + home made specialized tools.