hey, congrats!

[QUOTE=Kennetht638]I don't know where that number came fromQUOTE]

From lbs webpage


Here are some popular hubs:
Suzue 36 or 32 fronts $34.95
Suzue Q/R fronts$44.95.
Suzue fixed/freewheel 36 or 32 $39.95
Level Spline Drive Fixed Hubs
Level Rear $220 w/cog
Level Font $100
Level Rear $260 Spline Fixed / Free w/cog
Level Extra Spline Drive Cog $40
Miche pairs $189.95 36 or 32 holes.
Campagnolo Record Rear $169
Campagnolo Record Front $139
Suzue ProMax fixed/fixed pairs, 36, 32 or 28 holes $189.95
Suzue ProMax fronts $85
Suzue ProMax Q/R fronts $95
Suzue ProMax rears $125
Phil Wood High Fixed Rear $144 120mm
Phil Wood High Fixed Rear $169 > 120mm
Phil Wood High Fixed/Fixed Rear $173 120mm
Phil Wood High Fixed/Fixed Rear $199 >120mm
Phil Wood High Fixed/Free Rear $162 120mm
Phil Wood High Fixed/Free Rear $187 > 120mm
Phil Wood Low Fixed Rear $138 120mm
Phil Wood Low Fixed Rear $163 > 120mm
Phil Wood Low Fixed/Fixed Rear $167 120mm
Phil Wood Low Fixed/Fixed Rear $193 >120mm
Phil Wood Low Fixed/Free Rear $156 120mm
Phil Wood Low Fixed/Free Rear $181 > 120mm
We have a selection of vintage track hubs

We have track cogs in 1/8" and in 3/32" from 13t to 24t in various brands from $9.95 tp $29.95 Cheap lockrings are $4.95. DuraAce lockrings are $9.95. Sugino Keirin lockrings are $19.95


We have lots of chainrings, single freewheels, track cogs, lockrings and track cranks

Wheels built with Suzue rear track hubs, Wheelsmith butted stainless spokes and Campagnolo Montreal or Barcelona or Velocity Razor or Aero Heat or Deep V Front $140, Rear $150, pairs $250. Pair with Miche hubs $390 We have Campagnolo and Phil Wood fixed gear rear hubs, $149, built wheel $250. Do call us and we'll help!


Miche Complete Pista Ensemble ( Crank, BB, Hubs, Headset, Seatpost, Cog, Pedals only $499.99 complete, no substitutions, BSC or Italian

shanking,

you may not even need to have the wheel redished. its often unnecessary.

congratulations from me too. can't wait to see it in action! let's ride some time.

Thats what I have been trying to figure out--i aksed that question in another thread. I knwo there are multipel ways of converting a road into a fg---when do i have to redish and when not???

Roy's Bike Shop, Coney Island Ave. and Ave X, has a 2005 Bianchi Pista he's selling for $500.00

Can't beat that with a stick.

[QUOTE=skanking biker]holy crap your LBS is expensive.
you can get Miche hubsets for $85, Suzue Basics for $30-40, Promax pairs for $99. online/ebay.
and IRO wheelset will run you, $180 or less.

the complete miche grouppo is available for $340 as well.

Yep - its my summer project - i am swapping out all the parts - i just figured it was a good deal since it was only going to be $50 more than the frame new, and all of those parts can go to use somehow (and will allow me to ride it while i gather the perfect parts)

He is going to be hot - I am designing him based on my childhood hero (cheesy i know)

anyways, the "no buying a new bike unless i get a kitten" (stolen from dolface) turned into "no buying a new bike unless i get a new bike too;" and it looks like ostro might be (cross fingers) getting a polish frame this summer - sooooo i splurged

wait till you see the wheelset i am ordering :love:

I agree with bax; seems expensive. Regardless, even at those prices you're still under 200 bucks (going the built-wheel route).

As far as redishing, its only necessary if your chainline isnt straight. You can do some precise BB/chainring/hub/cog measuring to know ahead of time; but Its a lot easier to throw the wheel in, check the chainline, and redish only if you're off.

Of course, even if you dont need to, you can certainly redish for aesthetical reasons.

I read in another thread that redishing has nothing to do with the chainline, only centering the wheel.

Uhh, sillygirl, mark v frames cost $250 new, not $350.....

yeah - i was calculating in 50 bucks shipping - 25 bucks facing and some other odds and ends

i am also a known exaggerator

that's why her name is sillygirl, she's silly like that...

[sillygirl] Still a awesome deal though...

Silly, that's really cool. Had you saw the bike before I posted it up? That would be pretty cool if the thread hipped to the bike :)

So what is it.... The MARK V IRO... or the PISTA??? They are the same price

it was all you! thanks !!

i had been wavering between powdercoating my old frame or buying a new one. and the first option left me bikeless during the summer :eek: and the second option left me not riding the new frame for months. as soon as i saw this post i figured this was the best of both worlds - this way i can slowly replace parts till i have my hero.

pista has track geometry, mark v has road geometry...what do you want? where are you riding it?

which bike do you like the looks of best? black or chrome...

that's your answer...

Uhh the KHS flite 100 is no better than the mercier kilo TT. They are the same exact bikes now especially in 2005. The flite has the exact same components as the mercier. from 2004 and older the KHS had the sugino 75 crankset/bottom bracket but not anymore.

I bought the 2005 because I coulnd't find a 2004 anywhere. bottom line, if you want to buy a nice n00bai track bike, get the Mercier and save a few hundred, or get the Pista.

"they had a 1/8 chain on a 3/32 chainring / cog. WTF?!?!?!"

this isn't a problem persay. it might be a bit noisier, but overall, it'll work just fine.

i always forget which ones the universal one. is it 1/8 or 3/32?

OK-- I think I've got a plan. I went back to the LBS and he said that if I supply a frame he can do the whole thing for around $200 depending on whether I want to upgrade the components. The LBS guy was really nice--apparrently their speciailty is in building wheels and fg bikes. He was totally no pressure--let me ride a number of fixies and told me to take my time. Wlling to sit down and talk about gear ratios and fit me for no charge. So, all I have to do is find the my corrrect frame size and scrounge up a used but operable frame. I'm pretty excited about this!

you can use 1/8" chain on 3/32" parts, but not the other way around.

If you have a rear threaded road hub that you want to use for a fixie, you can re-space the hub to improve the chainline....upon which time you must re-dish to center the rim between the lock-nuts of the hub.

"I read in another thread that redishing has nothing to do with the chainline, only centering the wheel."

Wheelsteins theory of relativity. If the WHEEL remains centered (in the triangle, which it must be), then its actually the hub thats being centered. Ergo, changed chainline.