Sugino 75 bottom bracket install (torque specs/grease question)
 

About to install a Sugino 75 bottom bracket (caged bearing/open setup) and have a few questions.

-What are torque specs for the bottom bracket cups? I have the crank bolt torque specs but not sure about the cups.

-Besides greasing the bearing cages/inner cups and light grease on the cup threads, do I need to do add any grease to the plastic shell? I was going to do the ends but not sure about the interior/exterior walls of the shell to help keep water out.

Thanks.

Nevermind, found this thread.
http://www.bikeforums.net/singlespee...-track-bb.html

Well that was a fail.

I got the old cranks/bottom bracket out. Drive side cup went in fine, non-drive felt a little sticky so I pulled everything up and cleaned the threads once again real well with a stiff brush. Non-drive side still felt a little sticky but I'm used to working on cars that will have sticky bolts...soon as it gets past the bad area, it smooths right out.

Snap..broke the Park Tool. HCW-4
Snapped one of the two pins (other one is bent) that locks into the non-drive side holes to turn it. All of my mechanics tools are Snap-On and I've broken only a couple of tools in the 20 years of messing around on cars. Crazy. Not sure why the tool doesn't have a third pin in the center for extra leverage.

The nds cup is not supposed to be a tight fit, certainly not to the point of breaking/bending the spanner pins, which are replaceable btw. Either the frame BB shell threads are messed up and you need to run a tap through them, or you cross-threaded it.

Definitely didn't crossthread, I'm good about that. It only started to get sticky about halfway through. Figured a possible thread was dirty deeper inside and cup would clean it up as it passed over it.

Do they make a tool that engages all of the pins at once for a 1/2"-3/8" ratchet?

I was able to thread the drive side cup snug using my fingers.

I've never seen a tool other than a two-pin spanner, and like I said there should not be a lot of resistance all the way into the BB shell. You need to run a tap all the way into the shell to fix the threads, which are sometimes not completed far enough for wider cups.

i'd make sure that there is not something in the BB shell on the frame that is preventing the cup from going in. IOW, it may not be the threads. i'd check any sort of derailleur guide bolt that may still be on the frame's BB shell, if there ever was one.

sometimes just the threads on the frame's BB shell for use with a BB derailleur guide, if applicable in your case, can protrude into the BB shell's threads, if they were cut after the shell's threads, and cause a problem too.

Problem solved. Figured out the threads on my original bottom bracket cups didn't go very deep. So the further section of the threads were nasty.

I had a local shop cut/clean the threads on the bottom bracket and both cups went in easily. I'll post pics up in a bit.