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Originally Posted by TMonk
(Post 18695699)
pls dont try to bypass the censor.
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Originally Posted by TMonk
(Post 18695699)
pls dont try to bypass the censor.
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I think that a "****" would have gotten the point across just fine ;)
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Related question. I ride on mostly flat terrain in Chicago. With my current gear (66”) I can hold a pace in the high teens on the flat, but I spin out at about 30 mph going down a gentle slope. By the end of the season I work my way up to around 74”, but I have found that my legs like a smaller gear better in the spring since I don't ride nearly as much over the winter.
Our randonneuring season starts next weekend and I’m considering running the 200 fixed. The rides are in southern Wisconsin where it is much hillier, and it is easy to hit speeds in the high 40’s on descents. If I take my fixed gear should I move up to a taller gear or just be prepared to use the brake downhill? |
Originally Posted by kingston
(Post 18697759)
Related question. I ride on mostly flat terrain in Chicago. With my current gear (66”) I can hold a pace in the high teens on the flat, but I spin out at about 30 mph going down a gentle slope. By the end of the season I work my way up to around 74”, but I have found that my legs like a smaller gear better in the spring since I don't ride nearly as much over the winter.
Our randonneuring season starts next weekend and I’m considering running the 200 fixed. The rides are in southern Wisconsin where it is much hillier, and it is easy to hit speeds in the high 40’s on descents. If I take my fixed gear should I move up to a taller gear or just be prepared to use the brake downhill? |
Originally Posted by TMonk
(Post 18697111)
I think that a "****" would have gotten the point across just fine ;)
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Originally Posted by kingston
(Post 18697759)
Related question. I ride on mostly flat terrain in Chicago. With my current gear (66”) I can hold a pace in the high teens on the flat, but I spin out at about 30 mph going down a gentle slope. By the end of the season I work my way up to around 74”, but I have found that my legs like a smaller gear better in the spring since I don't ride nearly as much over the winter.
Our randonneuring season starts next weekend and I’m considering running the 200 fixed. The rides are in southern Wisconsin where it is much hillier, and it is easy to hit speeds in the high 40’s on descents. If I take my fixed gear should I move up to a taller gear or just be prepared to use the brake downhill? I wonder if you'll bump into Spencer Klaasen -- he rides brevets fixed, and unclips for the downhills. ;) |
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
(Post 18701796)
Hoo-boy, I've done some riding in SW Wisconsin, and I was really happy to have a 45" low gear on the bike I took. :lol: I think if I were going to do it FG/SS this early in the season, I might consider a freewheel that drops the gearing a few inches.
I wonder if you'll bump into Spencer Klaasen -- he rides brevets fixed, and unclips for the downhills. ;) |
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I have one of those in a 16/18 sitting at the bottom of a parts bin; couldn't figure out what it was good for. It's not like I'm going to stop at the top of every hill and "shift" from the 18 to the 16.
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I agree with the "just do it" philosophy many of the replies seem to offer. However, it's important to be honest with your fitness and bike when targeting a starting point. My bike weight is 30 lbs. and I'm very fit for a 56 year old. However, as much as I like 42x16 it just doesn't make sense compared to 42x17 for my hill situation. Before choosing though I had done enough homework to know this was my range.
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Agreed with everyone -- just do it, and keep doing it, without getting discouraged when you face a hill you can't climb yet. It took me three failed tries before I could climb my favorite local hill fixed without stopping or walking the steepest bits. Rather than give up, or go to a lower ratio, I just kept trying until I could climb it without stopping. Now, a couple years later, it's (relatively) easy to climb in the same gear, and I'm trying to tackle even steeper and longer pitches. Just keep pushing yourself, and don't worry too much about gearing or technique. Experience is more important than everything else combined, and the technique will come naturally.
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The solution is simple: have two bikes; when you want to do a hill ride, take the bike with gears.
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Originally Posted by Yan
(Post 18723995)
The solution is simple: have two bikes; when you want to do a hill ride, take the bike with gears.
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Originally Posted by cali_axela
(Post 18725339)
Simple, but no fun. I love climbing fixed.
Many decades ago I came up with a good idea for riding fixed in hill country. I used a double crankset with a 2 sided hub. The difference in the rings was 8 teeth (50/42), which I could combine with an SS freewheel 6 teeth larger than the fixed sprocket. That way I could reverse the wheel for a much lower climbing gear (free) while not having the wheel move as far in the frame as otherwise. I was a decent climber riding fixed, but this arrangement gave me a bailout option for climbing walls. |
Originally Posted by cali_axela
(Post 18725339)
Simple, but no fun. I love climbing fixed.
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Originally Posted by Yan
(Post 18725427)
As a former San Francisco resident myself, let me state that the "climbs" around there are not real climbs. If you ever find yourself riding up a real mountain, you'll ditch that fixed gear faster than a race car driver ditches an automatic transmission.
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I agree with you guys for that one. If your climb takes 20 or more minutes, get a dedicated climbing bike (low gear) or a multi speed geared bike. The importance of cadence optimization is proportional to the duration of your climbs for a variety of reasons.
Still, that doesn't stop nutzos like ex-user @Vireo from doing pychotic things like riding the Furnace Creek 508 fixed. Granted, he did comment after the fact about how awful it was and how he would never do it again, and he is a seasoned ultra-distance rider. |
1 Attachment(s)
46/16, 700x25c (76.2 gi), climbed this bridge without leaving the seat. Didn't even make a run at it either.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=518681 Edit: No toe clip pedals too. |
Riding across a bridge isn't really much of a climb.
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Originally Posted by seau grateau
(Post 18726920)
Riding across a bridge isn't really much of a climb.
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Originally Posted by TMonk
(Post 18726077)
I agree with you guys for that one. If your climb takes 20 or more minutes, get a dedicated climbing bike (low gear) or a multi speed geared bike. The importance of cadence optimization is proportional to the duration of your climbs for a variety of reasons.
Still, that doesn't stop nutzos like ex-user @Vireo from doing pychotic things like riding the Furnace Creek 508 fixed. Granted, he did comment after the fact about how awful it was and how he would never do it again, and he is a seasoned ultra-distance rider. Still, this is a lot harder than doing the same ride with gears. And you pay for the stops to change gears. (Then again, the early riders of races like the Tour de France did the same thing.) I am a guy who fell in love with riding fixed his first ride 40 years ago. I now have a bike that allows me to ride fixed almost anywhere without doing too much damage to this no longer young body. Another idea I toyed with when I was setting this bike up was going double chainring and shoving the hub 1/2 the spacing to the right. Then the big chainring would match up with the every day cog and the smaller inside chainring would match up with the hill climbing cog. Maybe some day. Ben |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 18727015)
It is by south Florida standards. That bridge might be the highest mountain for miles around.
However as a consolation - those of us that ride the coast road, more often than not, get the pleasure of riding into a headwind both coming and going ;) |
Good on you
Originally Posted by kingston
(Post 18697759)
Related question. I ride on mostly flat terrain in Chicago. With my current gear (66”) I can hold a pace in the high teens on the flat, but I spin out at about 30 mph going down a gentle slope. By the end of the season I work my way up to around 74”, but I have found that my legs like a smaller gear better in the spring since I don't ride nearly as much over the winter.
Our randonneuring season starts next weekend and I’m considering running the 200 fixed. The rides are in southern Wisconsin where it is much hillier, and it is easy to hit speeds in the high 40’s on descents. If I take my fixed gear should I move up to a taller gear or just be prepared to use the brake downhill? Ride Safe, Joe |
You're tougher than I am, [MENTION=393034]bmwjoe[/MENTION]. I took a geared bike and was glad to have it so I'll stick with gears for the rest of the series. Maybe next year I'll train harder over the winter and give it a go fixed.
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So, it has been over a year after I started this thread, and I thought that it was good to thank the people that gave me advice about it, I've riding my SS as long as I can, and I've tried to find those hills near by that are possible (for me) to climb. I've followed all the pieces of advice that I received from several people when I first posted this thread...
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 18691366)
So my advice is simple, go out and find the hills, find the steepest ones you can climb at all, and the longest ones you can get to the top of, and build them into a normal routine. When they get easier -- and they will -- look for steeper and longer.
Originally Posted by TimothyH
(Post 18691535)
Real road bike bars with proper brake hoods help tremendously. The droopy pista bars were the second thing I changed on my bike after the saddle.
https://goo.gl/photos/86NFcYAdzFYj1jNt7
Originally Posted by The Octopus
(Post 18691649)
Hey, y'all. Octopus here. Super-stoked to see people still chattering about riding big hills fixed, and that those old posts of mine are still useful to people. I just reread the advice one, and I stand by it. That stuff is tried and true.
-Paul So, here's the deal, there's an event where I live that's part of the Gran Fondo New York Series (GFNY), it'll be held in Colombia, March 18, 2018, and I think I can do it with my SS: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/...0b3f70ac_b.jpgGranFondo by Sergio Sicard, on Flickr The event is divided in two, a Medio Fondo (100km) and a Gran Fondo (137 km an A LOT of climbing!!!). Of course I'm trying for the Medio Fondo, as you can see, there's not a long climb on the Medio Fondo route, just up and downs all the way down the route. The numbers and the arrows points the pitches that I've identified in the route: I'm specially concerned about Number 3, 4 and 7 [IMG]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/...a5094ab5_b.jpgScreen Shot 2017-09-30 at 10.35.43 AM by Sergio Sicard, on Flickr[/IMG] The route is not far from home, but I haven't actually ride on it (hope to do a first recon in October), instead I'm doing my regular training route nearby home. What I've been trying to do is seeking routes that somehow help me to emulate the route of the event, according to the event's web site, the route is 100km with about 1400m of climbing, so my daily training is aprox 1/4 of it (28km, 370km climbing) [IMG]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4400/...52f0d1c6_b.jpgScreen Shot 2017-09-30 at 10.38.29 AM by Sergio Sicard, on Flickr[/IMG] Quite honestly, I'm not sure if I'm gona make it. I think is possible and I'll keep training properly and try to do it more seriously, but with two kids, a dog, and a day job sometimes it's not possible... Anyway, once again just want to thank all the people that helped me when I asked advice here... I'll keep you posted! |
That looks doable. Go for it, and have fun!
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