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Old 04-30-17, 09:27 AM
  #126  
Unkle Rico
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I mean i would say yes, but this project bike has a few old school bits on it which let itself to more of a vintage feel.. I know a lot of peeps use the TB14's and really like them for road use but I don't see anyone really using these for gravelish duties.

Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
I don't know about strength differences, but IMO the TB14s have kind of a C&V road bike look. I'm no expert on the gravel scene, but wouldn't they look out of place there?
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Old 04-30-17, 09:41 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Unkle Rico View Post
I mean i would say yes, but this project bike has a few old school bits on it which let itself to more of a vintage feel.. I know a lot of peeps use the TB14's and really like them for road use but I don't see anyone really using these for gravelish duties.
You might ask about the TB14s strength in the C&V forum. Lot and lots of guys there rave about how the wheel builds up nicely. They praise them for being straight and round and responding well to tension. They praise the ride quality too. Maybe some of those guys and gone off roading a bit and can give you some feedback.
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Old 05-04-17, 05:43 PM
  #128  
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Bought a Fuji Feather off of Craigslist for a steal. Everything is great, except for the track nuts. He said he caught a guy trying to steal his wheels with a pair of channel locks. They're completely rounded off. I was able to get them off with some vice grips, but can't seem to find a replacement. They're the same size front and back, but they aren't 9 or 10mm, as I brought the wheel into my local shop and none of those seemed to fit.

it's the stock wheelset. Bike is from 2011, but I'm assuming the wheelset hasn't changed throughout this time. Any idea what I should be looking to buy for these? Aside from a new wheelset all together.
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Old 05-04-17, 06:59 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Deathoftheparty View Post
a guy trying to steal his wheels with a pair of channel locks
Goddamn monster.
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Old 05-04-17, 07:27 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Deathoftheparty View Post
Bought a Fuji Feather off of Craigslist for a steal. Everything is great, except for the track nuts. He said he caught a guy trying to steal his wheels with a pair of channel locks. They're completely rounded off. I was able to get them off with some vice grips, but can't seem to find a replacement. They're the same size front and back, but they aren't 9 or 10mm, as I brought the wheel into my local shop and none of those seemed to fit.

it's the stock wheelset. Bike is from 2011, but I'm assuming the wheelset hasn't changed throughout this time. Any idea what I should be looking to buy for these? Aside from a new wheelset all together.

It's possible that they are 3/8 inch, which is 9.5mm. It's the standard for cheapy bikes, like beach cruisers etc., like all of mine. There is only one place in the world that sells track nuts for that size axle. They are available in 24 TPI and 26 TPI. You want 26 TPI, as 24 TPI is for coaster brake hubs.

$7.00 for all four. Swivel washer BMX bicycle axle nut 3/8" X 26T - SET OF 4

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Old 05-06-17, 11:28 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by Deathoftheparty View Post
Bought a Fuji Feather off of Craigslist for a steal. Everything is great, except for the track nuts. He said he caught a guy trying to steal his wheels with a pair of channel locks. They're completely rounded off. I was able to get them off with some vice grips, but can't seem to find a replacement. They're the same size front and back, but they aren't 9 or 10mm, as I brought the wheel into my local shop and none of those seemed to fit.

it's the stock wheelset. Bike is from 2011, but I'm assuming the wheelset hasn't changed throughout this time. Any idea what I should be looking to buy for these? Aside from a new wheelset all together.
What kind of half-assed "bike mechanic" couldn't help you figure this out?
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Old 05-06-17, 02:32 PM
  #132  
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One that never heard of a Verner caliper and thread gauge.
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Old 05-18-17, 07:02 PM
  #133  
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As I've posted I cut 2 cm off my quill stem and subsequently lowered my bars. Does this mean I have to raise my seat to balance he offset? I've been riding as is for a few weeks and I don't feel like my leg/knee extension is feeling right - but it could just be because my knee isn't fully healed from the dislocation yet and everything is still screwed up....
Thoughts?
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Old 05-18-17, 07:29 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
As I've posted I cut 2 cm off my quill stem and subsequently lowered my bars. Does this mean I have to raise my seat to balance he offset?
Never. The saddle should be positioned at the correct height for your legs relative to the cranks, period.

The problem you're experiencing might be due to the continuing process of healing, as you said, or you might just not be flexible enough to handle the new, lower bar position. Even if the latter, however, you shouldn't attempt to fix the problem via saddle height.
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Old 05-18-17, 08:46 PM
  #135  
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Saddle height should be set relative to the bottom of the pedal stroke. 1.09% of inseam is a good place to start.

A plum line hung down over the knee cap should hit the big toe when the knee is forward. That's a good place to start with saddle for/aft positioning.

That's what I've always used as a starting point for saddle position. Everything else flows from that.
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Old 05-19-17, 11:19 AM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by TimothyH View Post
Saddle height should be set relative to the bottom of the pedal stroke. 1.09% of inseam is a good place to start.



Guessing you meant 109%.
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Old 05-20-17, 06:48 PM
  #137  
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pictures

Can someone give me a few tips on how to shrink picture file sizes down so they can be posted on bike forums? Thanks,

Dave
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Old 05-20-17, 06:59 PM
  #138  
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I think the best way is to upload to an image hosting site (like imgur) and then insert the photo by reference to the hosted url.
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Old 05-25-17, 02:38 PM
  #139  
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I stumbled across these Origin8 Hornet 108 freewheels (ORIGIN8 FREEWHEELS Hornet 108 Performance Freewheel 18T x 1/8" Single CP | eBay) the other day and was wondering if anyone here has any experience with them. I was planning on getting a White Industries freewheel, but on paper at least, the Origin8 sounds as good if not better - 108 points of engagement, more pawls, etc.
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Old 06-02-17, 05:02 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by bonsai171 View Post
Can someone give me a few tips on how to shrink picture file sizes down so they can be posted on bike forums? Thanks,

Dave
Most picture editors can easily size pics. My favorite free one is Infranview. Once you have opened the image with it you just click on Image/Resize/Resample. You can choose the file size, dimensions, percent reduction, etc. Then save either with the same name or a new one.

Unfortunately some time ago the design of this forum software, which is used by many other sites, was changed so that Quick Reply no longer allows you to include a photo from your computer. If you are posting a new entry and not quoting someone you have to click on Post Reply (lower left of last post) or Go Advanced under the Quick Reply box and then choose the paperclip (Attachments) to insert a file from your computer rather than from a url from the Internet.
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Old 06-02-17, 08:46 AM
  #141  
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Question: I have a new Aventon with an integrated headset and carbon fork. I have tightened everything as much as I can, but there is still some occasional rattle in the headset when I hit bumps on the road. Any tips on how to get this tighter?

This is the headset and I did not install the 2 spacers under the red arrow. Mistake?

2.jpg
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Old 06-02-17, 09:38 AM
  #142  
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Are you sure that your stem/spacers extend past the steer tube? Make sure the top cap is not bottomed out against the steer tube before it properly compresses the head set. You should not have to crank it down very tight at all, in fact you will likely damage something if you do.
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Old 06-02-17, 09:40 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by Flatulentfox View Post
Are you sure that your stem/spacers extend past the steer tube? Make sure the top cap is not bottomed out against the steer tube before it properly compresses the head set. You should not have to crank it down very tight at all, in fact you will likely damage something if you do.
there is a little over 1mm of room between the spacers and the top of the tube. Maybe thats not enough? I left the tube a little longer before making the final cut, so I will probably drop it another cm or so and lose a spacer, but I think it has enough room now to press everything together.
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Old 06-02-17, 10:39 AM
  #144  
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Just to trouble shoot try throwing a longer/additional spacer on top, see if that makes any difference. I could see 1mm being not quite enough.
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Old 06-02-17, 10:42 AM
  #145  
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As long as the fork or top headset cover and headtube are not in contact and not binding, you should not need those headset shims.
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Old 06-02-17, 11:07 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by Flatulentfox View Post
Just to trouble shoot try throwing a longer/additional spacer on top, see if that makes any difference. I could see 1mm being not quite enough.
Will do. I'll make a swing by the LBS and pick one up.

Originally Posted by Flatulentfox View Post
As long as the fork or top headset cover and headtube are not in contact and not binding, you should not need those headset shims.
Nothing is making contact with the headtube and the fork steers/ turns without resistance. The only time I feel or hear a rattle is when riding over a significant bump, or by holding the bike by the handle bars and standing it on its back wheel, if I pick it up and let it bounce I can hear the rattle in the headset.
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Old 06-03-17, 05:00 PM
  #147  
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I usually have at least 3-5mm of space between the top of the steerer tube and the spacer.
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Old 06-13-17, 03:27 PM
  #148  
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random question

Anybody running tubeless on their SS/fixie?

Dave
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Old 06-13-17, 04:23 PM
  #149  
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Any ideas/resources for DIY headlight mounts?
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Old 06-13-17, 05:08 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by seau grateau View Post
Any ideas/resources for DIY headlight mounts?
How about 3d printing or zip ties?

Dave
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