Dropout Question
 

I'm noticing a few, mostly AL and Carbon frames with built in tensioners, which are literally just a screws to stop the wheel from slipping, built into the frame / dropouts. With this the entire dropout seems to be shifted upwards, so that the screw can hit dead center of the rear nuts.

To me this seems like a brilliant idea, but I am wondering if the more experienced riders here know of any reason this may negatively affect geo, or otherwise detract from any other aspect of the frame - otherwise this seems like it would be a pretty convenient setup:

https://i.imgur.com/1Kmwnbi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SNPk1in.jpg

..Still trying to choose a frame and just wanted some opinions.

It doesn't affect the geometry. The slot is in the same place in relation to the ground as any other frame. Look closely when comparing that to a dropout without adjusters. You'll see that the dropouts themselves are bigger, and that the chain stay is attached to a lower point of the dropouts with adjusters.


Just my personal experience, but I'll mention it. The adjusters create more problems than they solve. It's actually faster and easier to align your wheel and set chain slack without them.

This. My bike has them. It's a love hate relationship for sure.

Only thing they let me do is be more precise in setting the chain slack.

They're a kludge to fix what hadn't been broken for over a century.

There's no reason to worry about properly designed hubs to slip. Note, that this is conditioned on the hubs being made right, which unfortunately so many aren't anymore. Hence the problem, and the fix.

Motorcycles have them and they are awesome. But they are totally different. The axle is captured by the adjuster, which itself is captured by the swing arm, so it all stays put when you tighten it. And, the adjustment doesn't have to be broken to remove/replace the wheel.

The design for rearward facing track ends is LAME. You'd think that once you get your wheel position dialed in, the adjusters would allow you to replace the wheel right back to that perfect position. But noooo.... because you have to completely ruin the adjustment in order to slide the wheel forward in order to get the chain off. So you are forced to d!ck around with adjusters every time you want to remove the wheel, for any reason.

:rolleyes: x 10


** I know you already know this, I was just expanding for the OP's information.

A Surly Tugnut is a much better solution that does not require readjustment when removing/installing the rear wheel. I use one on a bike with a quick release that has problems with wheel axle slippage under load.

..Thanks everyone.. seems like a good thing if you love chain tensioners and don't frequently remove your wheels.

I think they are more for setting your chain tension and wheel alignment than preventing your wheel from slipping in the dropouts.

Never tried them but like the idea. On a stand I can easily get the wheel aligned and chain tension set first go no problem. Bike off the stand trying to balance everything it can give me some trouble and this feature would help. I assume you can just keep the screws backed out or remove them all together if they bother you.

..I use tensioners just so I don't get that gradual slippage over time, then one day have to re-adjust.. I just like the fact it won't move under normal conditions.

Your hub won't move under normal conditions without them if you set it right and it's not junk.

I do admit I like them on my geared semi horizontal dropout equipped hybrid because it keeps the wheel in the right spot each time so it doesn't effect my shifting but on my single speed/fixed gear bikes I don't need them and wouldn't really want them unless of course it had semi horizontal dropouts but since proper SS/FG bikes use track ends I don't need to worry about that since I don't have an need or want to convert a road bike to SS/FG.

I agree, they shouldn’t move. Even inexpensive formula hubs I’ve used and abused didn’t budge when torqued down correctly.

Agreed.

In addition to struggling to get the additional parts back where they belong when changing a tire, I found that the chain tension increased when I tightened the nuts. Then the chain loosened in use. Never could get it just right. Inherent problems with the adjusters? Something I was doing wrong? Anyway, I’m happier without them.

I use axle based wheel/chain tensioners here in Cambodia all the time. The drop outs in these cheap bikes are never really flat and a good push on a pedal will knock the wheel off center.