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My Bianchi Thoughts

Old 03-11-18, 09:32 AM
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My Bianchi Thoughts

My first and only FG is a Bianchi Pista that I found on CL for $200 last year. I finally got some new tires on it last night (25c Rubino), which was my first ever tire change. Feeling pretty accomplished! The bike is chrome, and whoever owned it before me stripped off all the decals and the chrome looks like junk. I'll probably do some aluminum foil and coke or vinegar and clean it up soon. I've been trying to spec it out lately to see how it stacks up against newer bikes or components that I'm looking at.

After my tire change last night, I noticed that it has All-City hubs, which I'm guessing are rebranded Novatecs. The decal on the rim was removed, but judging by the shape of the wheel and the shape of the decal smudge, I'm fairly certain they are Velocity Deep V. The cranks are Truvativ Touro, and I'm hoping the 170 stamped on the back of the arm refers to the length, because it would be nice to be certain what I was getting used to riding. Besides this, the bike has a Charge Spoon saddle that is working out just fine for now, and all I really need to make it more ideal is a set of compact drops and corresponding brakes/levers.

I'm just rambling now, but I would love any and all feedback about what I'm riding, and how it might stack up to something a little nicer. I've been looking into Wabi a lot for my next bike, or something else in the $800-$1000 range for a steel FG.

Can't decide if this bike is worth upgrading drivetrain and wheelset, or if I should just chill on the upgrades and ride this bike more until I can do a frame upgrade.
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Old 03-11-18, 09:55 AM
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All-City is rebranded Formula, not Novatec.

A Pista frame is about equivalent in quality to a kilo TT, and the fork is like a bikesdirect Chinese chromo. So, I wouldn’t go really high end on upgrades. Personally, I wouldn’t even mess with the wheels or cranks. Instead, I’d save up for something better like a Wabi.
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Old 03-11-18, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
All-City is rebranded Formula, not Novatec.

A Pista frame is about equivalent in quality to a kilo TT, and the fork is like a bikesdirect Chinese chromo. So, I wouldn’t go really high end on upgrades. Personally, I wouldn’t even mess with the wheels or cranks. Instead, I’d save up for something better like a Wabi.
Damn! So the price tag is just for the brand name? I think MSRP is $770. The steel on the Pista isn't that good?
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Old 03-11-18, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by rEVOLVED
Damn! So the price tag is just for the brand name? I think MSRP is $770. The steel on the Pista isn't that good?
Pistas used to retail for under $500, and are very entry level. The steel tubing is nothing special, just your basic butted chromo. So, yes, the price is inflated by the brand name, just like a Fuji track is basically the same thing as a much less expensive bikesdirect Motobecane track.
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Old 03-11-18, 11:27 AM
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170 = crank arm length.
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Old 03-11-18, 01:43 PM
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Upgrade when you know what you need/want, not before.
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Old 03-11-18, 02:21 PM
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I am a Bianchi road bike rider, but glad not to have that Pista anymore. I found it NOS and was very happy that I sold it for what I bought it for, which I think was about $450. Again, the chrome & decals were perfect.

I didn't like it much, the tubing felt too thin for me...I concluded it was a good bike for lightweights in smaller sizes, and that's not me. i wouldn't put a dime into that particular bike.
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Old 03-11-18, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by FrenchFit
I am a Bianchi road bike rider, but glad not to have that Pista anymore. I found it NOS and was very happy that I sold it for what I bought it for, which I think was about $450. Again, the chrome & decals were perfect.

I didn't like it much, the tubing felt too thin for me...I concluded it was a good bike for lightweights in smaller sizes, and that's not me. i wouldn't put a dime into that particular bike.
Thanks! I appreciate your thoughts. Just got back from a 25 mile ride and definitely need to figure out my next purchase soon. The Pista mostly gets my needs met, but I am not in love. The new 25c Rubinos help a bunch, but it came with these wonky "bullhorns" that are actually sawed off drops upside down. They are absolutely terrible after 20 miles. I know it only comes up here and there with slower turns, but the toe overlap is also gnarly.

One option would be getting road or compact drops with the right brakes set up to tide me over until I can afford a nicer frame. This might get me through summer, which will likely consist of shorter rides with more frequent stops since I'm in AZ. But that seems wasteful since my new bike will probably be a complete and not a frame that I add components to. Options options. Or I could just convince my wife to let me buy the Wabi that I want now! Especially if I sell the Pista for a few hundred.
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Old 03-11-18, 07:22 PM
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I've taken a Bianchi Pista about as far as it can go.

I should have bought a Wabi Lightning SE and upgraded that.
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Old 03-11-18, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
I've taken a Bianchi Pista about as far as it can go.

I should have bought a Wabi Lightning SE and upgraded that.
Lightning SE?! Dang, ******! I'm just looking at the classic/road.
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Old 03-12-18, 05:24 AM
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I'd say for $200 bucks you should just ride the thing and be happy.

The pista is a perfectly fine frame. Like most bikes, it is probably more capable than the rider. That's not a comment about you, but instead the bike.
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Old 03-12-18, 06:07 AM
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I ride both a Wabi Classic and a Bianchi San Jose. Each one is super fun in its own regard.
Your Pista and the Wabi classic will be alot closer to the same than my two
rides but my suggestion is to trick out the Pista and ride it with the best gear you want for the Wabi ...
then pull the trigger on the frame.
After you finish ,either sling the Pista with the stock parts or keep
both.😃
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Old 03-12-18, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by rEVOLVED
Lightning SE?! Dang, ******! I'm just looking at the classic/road.
Don't let them bully you into getting the wrong size.

I recently tried to buy a 55. They said they had none in stock, asked for my measurements which I sent and recommended a 52. Then they turned around and said that there were no 52's in stock and recommended a 49 which was in stock. I walked away.

Take what they say with a grain of salt.


-Tim-
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Old 03-12-18, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
Don't let them bully you into getting the wrong size.

I recently tried to buy a 55. They said they had none in stock, asked for my measurements which I sent and recommended a 52. Then they turned around and said that there were no 52's in stock and recommended a 49 which was in stock. I walked away.

Take what they say with a grain of salt.
I feel so fortunate that I bought my Wabi when Richard was still at the helm.
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Old 03-12-18, 08:52 AM
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My first fixed gear was a road conversion built on an old Giant lugged steel frame. Bought a Bianchi Pista used because I thought it was more legit and it was a good deal. I was super excited for a "real" fixed gear. Ride quality was pretty meh and never really like the bike much and ultimately ended up selling it and going through another few bikes before settling on a Soma Rush. Soma has similar geo to the Bianchi but better steel and a much improved ride and feel.

The Pista is a very entry level frame priced like something fancier.

I wouldn't spend too much money on improvements for the Bianchi or if you do keep an eye on things that are easily moved to another bike when the time comes (bars, stem, wheels) rather than things that are more bike specific (headset, bottom bracket etc) that might require a different size for a new frame.
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Old 03-12-18, 10:07 AM
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I agree that the Soma Rush is a step up from a Pista in looks and performance. It also has mounts for at least one bottle cage. Frame and fork are on sale at the Soma site right now for $455.99.

Rodriguez in Seattle has some fixed gear frames with a road-ish geometry starting at $999. They will do custom geometry for $200 more, or custom paint, carbon fork, lighter tubes, anything you want - the sky (and budget) is the limit.

https://www.rodbikes.com/catalog/track/track-main.html


-Tim-

Last edited by TimothyH; 03-12-18 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 03-12-18, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
Don't let them bully you into getting the wrong size.

I recently tried to buy a 55. They said they had none in stock, asked for my measurements which I sent and recommended a 52. Then they turned around and said that there were no 52's in stock and recommended a 49 which was in stock. I walked away.

Take what they say with a grain of salt.


-Tim-
When I last spoke with Matt at Wabi, he suggested a 58 frame with a 120 stem, or 130 if I wanted to be more aggressive. I currently ride a 57 with a stem length of 80. I sent him my competitive cyclist fit calc measurements, so I hope he used those to the best of his ability.

More than anything, I just want a bike that fits me really well and blends comfort with speed. I'm still pretty new here. Just did 25 miles yesterday of all flat bike path/light gravel and averaged 15mph with a strong headwind for half the ride. I think that's pretty good for a beginner. Went into the ride with some neck issues and left the ride with...some worse neck issues. I've been reading a lot of posts from @SquidPuppet since he seems to have some back issues like me and finds a lot of pleasure in an upright handlebar. Anyway, this is getting into an entirely different topic. Essentially, bikes that are sold exclusively online to people like me with limited riding experience seem nearly impossible to spec out correctly on the first try.

I was debating putting the recommended 120mm stem on my Pista, but getting one with an angle adjuster. This would allow me to try that length of stem at a few different angles. Thoughts?
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Old 03-12-18, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by rEVOLVED

I was debating putting the recommended 120mm stem on my Pista, but getting one with an angle adjuster. This would allow me to try that length of stem at a few different angles. Thoughts?
Changing the angle changes the effective length, so you have to take that into consideration.

Play around with this too see what I'm talking about. It's great tool for helping to decide what to try next.

Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net

That said, I don't think you should replace the stem until you've installed the bars that you want. Going from bullhorns to compact drop is a GIGANTIC fit change. You may immediately find the new position supremely comfy, or it may be too cramped, or too low. Get the bars you want and ride for a while. You'll notice what right or wrong. At that point buy a stem that adjusts the fit.

You can't fit your bike on an internet forum. Just ride a lot and pay close attention to what your body tells you. Adjust accordingly.

I prefer the upright position because speed isn't my concern, comfort, handling, and vision are. My back isn't really an issue. I prefer the way a bike steers and handles with my hands in line with the steering axis, less weight on the front wheel, mimicking an MX motorcycle fit. I ride overly long frames, chose my stems, and cut my handlebars to achieve that.

Do what works for you.

Last edited by SquidPuppet; 03-12-18 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 03-12-18, 12:00 PM
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@SquidPuppet, thanks for your advice. I never thought about the importance of changing the bars first. Maybe this will be my first step. And then I can adjust from there. Out of curiosity, I'd love to know how many miles you typically ride at once. I've heard you say that you rarely track mph or distance, but I was hoping you had some estimate?
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Old 03-12-18, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rEVOLVED
@SquidPuppet, thanks for your advice. I never thought about the importance of changing the bars first. Maybe this will be my first step. And then I can adjust from there. Out of curiosity, I'd love to know how many miles you typically ride at once. I've heard you say that you rarely track mph or distance, but I was hoping you had some estimate?
My typical ride is down to the local lake/beach and back, with a few miles of goofing around while I'm down there. That's on roads and totals ~25 miles. When I want to go for a longer ride I go to the Trail of the Coeur 'd Alenes, a rails-to-trails path that's nearby. It runs along a river for 76 miles. I prefer the south western section that connects to the lake, and that's ~46 miles long, one way. It's scenic, well groomed, and usually very uncrowded.
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Old 03-12-18, 01:02 PM
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Your Pista for $200 was a reasonably good deal, and the parts sound like they're okay. Swapping out the bars (maybe stem, too?) and brake levers would make sense, because that's not so much an upgrade as it is adapting the bike to fit you and your needs. THAT makes sense. The All City/Formula sealed bearing hubs are fine hubs, and if they work and are in good shape you could continue using them for years without really giving up anything, performance-wise. I'm in the camp suggesting you save your money for something nicer that more specifically fits you and the kinds of riding you want to do.

FWIW, I had a Pista I bought new in late '99, the year they came in flat black with Celeste decals and Suzue Pro-Max sealed bearing hubs and some weird crankset that I have completely forgotten. I rode it for a season and sold it after deciding the bike's track-oriented geometry didn't work for me on the roads in South Carolina. For longer rides over varied surfaces, I have been much happier with 72-degree parallel frames rather than steeper geometry suitable for criteriums or velodromes.

I freely admit to being hopelessly retro in my outlook, but I would strongly suggest that if you go with dropped bars, seriously explore the classical drop-bar position recommended for decades for non-racing cyclists - top of the bars roughly level with the saddle height, the distance between the nose of the saddle and the back of the bar tops roughly the length of the forearm and hand with fingers extended.
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Old 03-12-18, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rustystrings61

I freely admit to being hopelessly retro in my outlook, but I would strongly suggest that if you go with dropped bars, seriously explore the classical drop-bar position recommended for decades for non-racing cyclists - top of the bars roughly level with the saddle height, the distance between the nose of the saddle and the back of the bar tops roughly the length of the forearm and hand with fingers extended.
This little blurb basically sounds amazing to me! I like that simplistic approach, at least as a starting point. One school of though that appeals to me is putting on compact drops with a pretty highly angled stem, like +17. Riding the hoods becomes closer to an upright position, and actually being in the drops ends up feeling like what most people ride as the flat part of the bars. Anyone do anything similar to this?
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Old 03-14-18, 06:20 AM
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Throw the same parts on a blind frame and I’d bet maybe one in ten of the tensile experts posting above could tell the difference between a Pista and, well, any other steel fixed frame with similar geo. Truth is you’ll get more impact out of tires than you will from one double butted chrome frame to the next. Regardless of what the frame sticker tells you.

If the frame is comfortable for the riding you do, and you feel an itch to throw money at something throw it toward something that will get you somewhere...the tires, hubs, and rims. You’ll stretch your buck further here than anywhere else on a frame and you can move these upgrades to your next frame, if you need be.

It shouldn’t come as much of a surprise the fixed gear scene is incredibly brand conscious. Folks want to forget the neon rims but they didn’t go away they just got recycled as King headsets, etc.

Before anything else though get your bars sorted. Riser stem is all kinds of badass.






Originally Posted by rEVOLVED
When I last spoke with Matt at Wabi, he suggested a 58 frame with a 120 stem, or 130 if I wanted to be more aggressive. I currently ride a 57 with a stem length of 80. I sent him my competitive cyclist fit calc measurements, so I hope he used those to the best of his ability.

More than anything, I just want a bike that fits me really well and blends comfort with speed. I'm still pretty new here. Just did 25 miles yesterday of all flat bike path/light gravel and averaged 15mph with a strong headwind for half the ride. I think that's pretty good for a beginner. Went into the ride with some neck issues and left the ride with...some worse neck issues. I've been reading a lot of posts from @SquidPuppet since he seems to have some back issues like me and finds a lot of pleasure in an upright handlebar. Anyway, this is getting into an entirely different topic. Essentially, bikes that are sold exclusively online to people like me with limited riding experience seem nearly impossible to spec out correctly on the first try.

I was debating putting the recommended 120mm stem on my Pista, but getting one with an angle adjuster. This would allow me to try that length of stem at a few different angles. Thoughts?
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Old 03-14-18, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Pond
Throw the same parts on a blind frame and I’d bet maybe one in ten of the tensile experts posting above could tell the difference between a Pista and, well, any other steel fixed frame with similar geo.
Just so you know, the "Tensile experts posting above" include a state track champion, people who have been riding custom steel frames since the 1950 or 60's and at least one person with a PhD in engineering from MIT.


-Tim-
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Old 03-14-18, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
Just so you know, the "Tensile experts posting above" include a state track champion, people who have been riding custom steel frames since the 1950 or 60's and at least one person with a PhD in engineering from MIT.


-Tim-
And this refutes my position how, precisely?
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