Bike Forums - Wabi stack and reach?

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Wabi stack and reach?

Anyone have stack and reach figures for a 55 and/or 58 frame? Have reached out to Wabi but haven’t been able to get a reliable answer.

headtube and top tube dimensions are readily available on their website. The HS that came with my Wabi adds another like 1.5 cm of stack height to the HT dimension.

IIRC reach is only a function of TT length, stem length and bar reach (rigth???), so the only thing you'll need is the aforementioned TT length and the rest is up to you

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Pond (Post 20393656)

Anyone have stack and reach figures for a 55 and/or 58 frame? Have reached out to Wabi but haven’t been able to get a reliable answer.

i just ordered a Wabi and stack and reach were determined based on the measurements I gave them. They refer you to this site to calculate your optimal fit if you don’t want to go off an existing bike:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp#type

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMonk (Post 20393765)

Both measurements use the crank spindle as an reference point. So, reach is the distance from the B.B. center to the center of the headtube, for example. Frame angles and sloping tubes add complications. It’s easy to measure but hard to guesstimate.

[MENTION=554]doug[/MENTION]

The suggestions from competitive cyclist are wonderful if you are a 16 year old racer. If you are utterly new it can be an ok reference, but I find even the most generous suggestion puts one on a bike a few sizes below what I would recommend, but I’m not nearly as Gumby like as I once was.

As to trustingly Wabi to fit me, well, they once told me I could make a 49 frame work with enough post. I’m about 6’. To their credit they offered to buy the frame back if it didn’t work out, which is mind blowing.

Anyway, I know how I like to fit on a bike, just need a few details to see which frame will work best for what I have in mind.

Oh! Good to know. I've only been paying attention to HT and TT dimensions when selecting a frame this whole time. Things have always worked out but perhaps I've just been lucky.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Pond (Post 20393918)

What I found interesting about competitive cyclist is they offered three different fits: the "Eddy Fit" (meaning Eddy Merckx), the Competitive Fit, and the French Fit. I found the Eddy Fit to be pretty consistent with my preferred measurements based on bikes I've owned.

Rivendell emphasizes that most people are on bikes with seat tubes that are too small. That is why they start with pubic bone height (PBH). Getting my PBH measured jumped me up from a 55cm frame to 57cm, which was a great move in terms of my pedal efficiency, comfort, etc. But for Wabi, I started with the standover height and built from there. My PBH measurements suggested their 55cm frame.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dougbloch (Post 20394229)

What I found interesting about competitive cyclist is they offered three different fits: the "Eddy Fit" (meaning Eddy Merckx), the Competitive Fit, and the French Fit. I found the Eddy Fit to be pretty consistent with my preferred measurements based on bikes I've

Rivendell emphasizes that most people are on bikes with seat tubes that are too small. That is why they start with pubic bone height (PBH). Getting my PBH measured jumped me up from a 55cm frame to 57cm, which was a great move in terms of my pedal efficiency, comfort, etc. But for Wabi, I started with the standover height and built from there. My PBH measurements suggested their 55cm frame.

You should Google what Stack and Reach are in regards to bike fitting. It is an alternative to and pretty much rejects the standover/seattube/pubic bone height style of sizing that you are talking about and that the Competive Cyclist fit calculator gives, and the "toptube length is most important" credo that the BFSSFG hivemind proclaims...

Yeah, seat tube is one measurement I basically never look at. Rivendell makes some really nice bikes, but the guy who runs that company is a total wacko. And I still don't get how stack/reach measurements are supposedly superior to top tube/head tube.

Well I can understand how stack and reach are technically more anatomical but unless you're using a frame with some highly unusual angles/construction I think HT and TT are just easier to work with.

Hey, T-Monk, I’d be super grateful if you could measure the B.B. to TT and then use that point to measure to the Ht!

Stack and reach take in to consideration a bunch of variables that aren’t apparent when you look at tube length, like B.B. height and tube slope. It can be tricky to see a 1% slope in a tt, and ht length can vary with B.B. height and the lengthening or shortening of the dt that results. Just takes some of the guesswork out, especially when you’re operating with a parts bit and your budget is still in recovery mode after buying a Log Lady.

Have you used this before? You can get your answers here by punching in the other numbers. Then you can spend countless hours (like me :p) designing custom bikes. Great tool and lots of fun.

https://www.bikecad.ca/

[MENTION=465414]Big Pond[/MENTION] I'd be happy to take that measurement for you. I'm leaving from work to house-sit for my parents tonight and tomorrow night, so I can post here about it on Sunday. Mine is a 55 cm frame.