If you could only have one 52/16 or 40/16?
11-03-18, 10:09 AM
#1
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If you could only have one 52/16 or 40/16?
Looking to break a double crank into a single with a 16T SS sprocket. For daily riding on small hills would you rather have the 52T or 40T chainring?
11-03-18, 12:07 PM
#3
~>~
Speaking in Gear Inches, as the convention was developed to do, converts all gearing/wheel/tire combos into simple comparative numbers: Bigger is bigger and smaller isn't.
In this case, assuming 700 X 23, your choices are 84 or 65 GI.
For winter FG endurance rides ~70 GI was recommended for racing cyclists on the "small hills" you describe back when such was common training practice.
An 84 GI for anything other than a TT would not be my choice w/ many years of FG cycling in my legs.
Are you somehow married to a 16T FW?
There are many other ways to get chainring/cog combos to a GI that match terrain/fitness.
-Bandera
In this case, assuming 700 X 23, your choices are 84 or 65 GI.
For winter FG endurance rides ~70 GI was recommended for racing cyclists on the "small hills" you describe back when such was common training practice.
An 84 GI for anything other than a TT would not be my choice w/ many years of FG cycling in my legs.
Are you somehow married to a 16T FW?
There are many other ways to get chainring/cog combos to a GI that match terrain/fitness.
-Bandera
Last edited by Bandera; 11-03-18 at 01:19 PM.
11-03-18, 12:26 PM
#4
aire díthrub
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If you’re going to consider 52, then I would recommend an 18 or 19t freewheel. If buying another freewheel is not a consideration, then I would recommend you go with the 40.
since I don’t know what a ‘small’ hill is to you, or what your physical endurance and leg strength is, or what type of riding and average speed you prefer, recommending roughly 85 inches, makes no sense. I normally ride between 75 and 78 inches, and I can tackle hills and most smaller bridges just fine. I wouldn’t recommend anything over 80 inches for anything but the track, or otherwise sport/racing specific use. You’ll certainly regret 85 inches on a windy day, that I can tell you. If you want to use a larger chainring, use a larger sprocket. If you’re not considering this change based on gearing, and you’re not thinking carefully about it, then you’re going about it all wrong. Simply put, neither of those gear choices is ideal, far from it in fact.
if you don’t know anything about gearing, then I suggest you do some reading online about it and educate yourself so you can properly understand and decide what you need. At least, ask some questions here.
Here is is a handy calculator to give you a number of metrics:
https://www.bikecalc.com/gear_inches
since I don’t know what a ‘small’ hill is to you, or what your physical endurance and leg strength is, or what type of riding and average speed you prefer, recommending roughly 85 inches, makes no sense. I normally ride between 75 and 78 inches, and I can tackle hills and most smaller bridges just fine. I wouldn’t recommend anything over 80 inches for anything but the track, or otherwise sport/racing specific use. You’ll certainly regret 85 inches on a windy day, that I can tell you. If you want to use a larger chainring, use a larger sprocket. If you’re not considering this change based on gearing, and you’re not thinking carefully about it, then you’re going about it all wrong. Simply put, neither of those gear choices is ideal, far from it in fact.
if you don’t know anything about gearing, then I suggest you do some reading online about it and educate yourself so you can properly understand and decide what you need. At least, ask some questions here.
Here is is a handy calculator to give you a number of metrics:
https://www.bikecalc.com/gear_inches
Last edited by seamuis; 11-03-18 at 12:40 PM.
11-03-18, 02:47 PM
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Thanks so far 
Seamus, I just asked a simple question which you answered very well in the first para thanks. I did not go into a lot of detail because I'm about to start a whole thread on the actual rebuild and won't have anything new to talk about if I describe it here but basically I'm initially trying to be as period/model correct as I can be by rebuilding the original 27" steel wheel with what I have, which is a 16T sprocket and a Raleigh 52/40 crank so my choice is 52 or 40.
Prolly I should have left the ambiguous hill part out as it muddies the water. It will be a townie type bike for somewhere not quite Tampa and not quite San Francisco.
Seamus, I just asked a simple question which you answered very well in the first para thanks. I did not go into a lot of detail because I'm about to start a whole thread on the actual rebuild and won't have anything new to talk about if I describe it here but basically I'm initially trying to be as period/model correct as I can be by rebuilding the original 27" steel wheel with what I have, which is a 16T sprocket and a Raleigh 52/40 crank so my choice is 52 or 40.
Prolly I should have left the ambiguous hill part out as it muddies the water. It will be a townie type bike for somewhere not quite Tampa and not quite San Francisco.
11-03-18, 03:14 PM
#8
aire díthrub
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Originally Posted by Happy Feet
Thanks so far
Seamus, I just asked a simple question which you answered very well in the first para thanks. I did not go into a lot of detail because I'm about to start a whole thread on the actual rebuild and won't have anything new to talk about if I describe it here but basically I'm initially trying to be as period/model correct as I can be by rebuilding the original 27" steel wheel with what I have, which is a 16T sprocket and a Raleigh 52/40 crank so my choice is 52 or 40.
Prolly I should have left the ambiguous hill part out as it muddies the water. It will be a townie type bike for somewhere not quite Tampa and not quite San Francisco.
Seamus, I just asked a simple question which you answered very well in the first para thanks. I did not go into a lot of detail because I'm about to start a whole thread on the actual rebuild and won't have anything new to talk about if I describe it here but basically I'm initially trying to be as period/model correct as I can be by rebuilding the original 27" steel wheel with what I have, which is a 16T sprocket and a Raleigh 52/40 crank so my choice is 52 or 40.
Prolly I should have left the ambiguous hill part out as it muddies the water. It will be a townie type bike for somewhere not quite Tampa and not quite San Francisco.
Last edited by seamuis; 11-03-18 at 03:35 PM.
11-03-18, 10:16 PM
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I'd go with 40. That will be nearly the same gearing that I'm using. It's fast enough for me, since I'm not a particularly athletic rider. My town has lots of little hills but nothing drastic. Definitely townie style.
When I was trying to figure out a gearing, one thing I worked out was my top speed at a reasonable cadence. It worked out to about 18 mph at 90 cadence. Trying to ride much faster than that on a sustained basis would wear me out in a hurry. So, it's a gearing that makes sense for my physical condition. In my case I was stuck with 19T in back, because it's the only cog that was ever widely available for a Bendix hub. So it came down to choosing a chainring.
I'm just thinking that the 52T ring would have you riding at an uncomfortable cadence most of the time, unless you're pretty darn fit.
You can always lengthen the chain later. Don't throw away the extra links.
When I was trying to figure out a gearing, one thing I worked out was my top speed at a reasonable cadence. It worked out to about 18 mph at 90 cadence. Trying to ride much faster than that on a sustained basis would wear me out in a hurry. So, it's a gearing that makes sense for my physical condition. In my case I was stuck with 19T in back, because it's the only cog that was ever widely available for a Bendix hub. So it came down to choosing a chainring.
I'm just thinking that the 52T ring would have you riding at an uncomfortable cadence most of the time, unless you're pretty darn fit.
You can always lengthen the chain later. Don't throw away the extra links.
11-04-18, 09:08 AM
#11
tumbleweed
If I could only have one it would be the 40-16 . 52-16 daily would make my knees hurt.
11-05-18, 04:46 AM
#12
Senior Member
I'd go with the 40 - 16. My daily ride includes about 1000' of climbing, and a 42 - 18 works well on all but the steepest routes (think marin av, for those familiar with berkeley, ca). The decent is a different story, but it's tolerable.
11-06-18, 12:25 AM
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If you ride within the law, obeying all stop signs and signals, and treating other road users with courtesy, then in town you will be accelerating, decelerating, stopping, and starting considerably more often than you would if you were out on the open road.
Lower gears are better for starting and accelerating, and easier for braking. Peak speeds in town are likely to be lower, especially if there are no significant downhills.
You may well be comfortable on the higher ratio on a long flat ride, assuming no strong headwind, but the lower of the two ratios will be far more practical and less tiring in town.
Lower gears are better for starting and accelerating, and easier for braking. Peak speeds in town are likely to be lower, especially if there are no significant downhills.
You may well be comfortable on the higher ratio on a long flat ride, assuming no strong headwind, but the lower of the two ratios will be far more practical and less tiring in town.
11-26-18, 04:43 AM
#14
Member
40/16 to use it every day, I prefer to ride slowly than die going uphill with a 52t XD
52/16 only to track or flat routes.
52/16 only to track or flat routes.
11-26-18, 09:01 PM
#15
Super-duper Genius
Add my vote for the 40 tooth chainring. It might be a bit spinny, but that shouldn't really be a problem. Since you have a freewheel, you can coast down hills. You won't get anywhere fast, but you'll have a comfortable ride and be able to take on even moderately steep climbs.
I had a bike set up with 53x16 fixed gears. I built it specifcally for training on a completely flat stretch of road with no traffic. I had a track drop handlebar, so I could tuck low. It was fun to ride and manageable even for my skinny legs... on flat terrain. Headwinds were a problem, and so were even little hills. I wouldn't recommend that gear ratio for an "only" bike.
I had a bike set up with 53x16 fixed gears. I built it specifcally for training on a completely flat stretch of road with no traffic. I had a track drop handlebar, so I could tuck low. It was fun to ride and manageable even for my skinny legs... on flat terrain. Headwinds were a problem, and so were even little hills. I wouldn't recommend that gear ratio for an "only" bike.
11-26-18, 09:18 PM
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The 40 is the only option if those are the two choices and you intend to ride outside.
11-29-18, 10:50 AM
#17
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i'm setting up a single speed conversion over the winter with my grand daughter's donated tank-ass mongoose ledge 2.1 MTB. i'm going with 38/18.
11-29-18, 12:25 PM
#18
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50/16 is a weird gear... too big for all-around road, too small for track.
40!
I ride 42/17 on the road a fair bit (like yesterday) and it's a little spinny but you know what they say: Spinny for the Winny!
40!
I ride 42/17 on the road a fair bit (like yesterday) and it's a little spinny but you know what they say: Spinny for the Winny!
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