Viva la coaster brake revolucion!
#1
boozhound
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Viva la coaster brake revolucion!
I suspect that an offshoot of the whole fixey pehnomenon is a (sub)subcult of coaster brake bikes. Care to come out of the coaster closet and show your rides?
I have even noticed a few coaster brake bikes soiling the sanctity of the fixed gear gallery! (ok, only 1 so far, and I can't find the link, but still!)
jsn
I have even noticed a few coaster brake bikes soiling the sanctity of the fixed gear gallery! (ok, only 1 so far, and I can't find the link, but still!)
jsn
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Dictator
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Originally Posted by fixedstep
where do u get a coaster brake hub?
#6
Rebel Thousandaire
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Originally Posted by jsn
I have even noticed a few coaster brake bikes soiling the sanctity of the fixed gear gallery! (ok, only 1 so far, and I can't find the link, but still!)
jsn
jsn
#7
Matthew Grimm / Flunky
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I used a coaster brake on my commuter for ten years.
The trick is to keep caliper brakes on the bike as well for emergency stops. Hard rear breaking on a coaster hub will twist up a wheel good.
CBs are really good for scrubing off a little speed while riding no hands.
For the record, Bendix hubs are the best.
Van Dessel made at least one coaster bike. It was sweet.
Viva la Coaster!
Matthew
The trick is to keep caliper brakes on the bike as well for emergency stops. Hard rear breaking on a coaster hub will twist up a wheel good.
CBs are really good for scrubing off a little speed while riding no hands.
For the record, Bendix hubs are the best.
Van Dessel made at least one coaster bike. It was sweet.
Viva la Coaster!
Matthew
#8
boozhound
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This is my coaster brake mobile:
https://boozhoundlabs.com/austro-daimler/
As for stopping, a coaster brake will very readily lock up the rear wheel, and so a skidding hockey-stop works quite well for emergency situations. And you still ahve the front wheel to steer. As always, the more brakes the better for safety.
For a nice rundown on the various coaster brake hubs, check out this post:
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/108422-coaster-brake-jimv.html
I am currently using a Hi Stop coaster brake from an old BMX wheel I found in a junkyard. I have rebuilt it using high temperature automotive bearing grease to handle the temperatures a coaster brake will develop on long descents.
My advice is to stay away ffrom the multiple-disc style brakes, and only use the cone-and-brake-shoe style of hub, like the Hi Stop, the modern Shimanos, and I believe the Bendix red stripe. I have no experience with the roller style that jimv likes, but they sound pretty cool.
Does anyone have any experience with the Bendix yellow-stripe 2-speed kickback hubs? I used to have the red stripe version, but it was the disc style and was old and worn and very unreliable. It would be nice to have a little turbo-boost for riding in fast moving traffic.
jsn
https://boozhoundlabs.com/austro-daimler/
As for stopping, a coaster brake will very readily lock up the rear wheel, and so a skidding hockey-stop works quite well for emergency situations. And you still ahve the front wheel to steer. As always, the more brakes the better for safety.
For a nice rundown on the various coaster brake hubs, check out this post:
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/108422-coaster-brake-jimv.html
I am currently using a Hi Stop coaster brake from an old BMX wheel I found in a junkyard. I have rebuilt it using high temperature automotive bearing grease to handle the temperatures a coaster brake will develop on long descents.
My advice is to stay away ffrom the multiple-disc style brakes, and only use the cone-and-brake-shoe style of hub, like the Hi Stop, the modern Shimanos, and I believe the Bendix red stripe. I have no experience with the roller style that jimv likes, but they sound pretty cool.
Does anyone have any experience with the Bendix yellow-stripe 2-speed kickback hubs? I used to have the red stripe version, but it was the disc style and was old and worn and very unreliable. It would be nice to have a little turbo-boost for riding in fast moving traffic.
jsn
#9
coasterbrakelockup
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I'm about a week away from getting my steamcoaster finished. Waiting for the correct spokes to come in. Pictures to follow soon after.
Coaster brakes rep-re-ZENT!
Coaster brakes rep-re-ZENT!
#10
aspiring dirtbag commuter
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damn, i just asked this question over in commuter-land.... great minds.
so is there a coasterbrake hub still in production worth using?? spacing??
so is there a coasterbrake hub still in production worth using?? spacing??
#11
boozhound
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I have a Hi Stop that is OK. It is very similar to the Bendix Red Line, but it has a spring that actively disengages the brake shoes when you are not braking. The Hi Stop hubs also come in 32 hole, which is nice.
It does rattle a bit over bumps. I assume this is the shoes rattling around in the hub. Anyone have any ideas about this?
One thing I want to do with a Bendix hub I just got is to use loose ball bearings instead of the caged bearings so that I can add a ball or 2. The bearings seems very widely spaced as-is. Maybe it will smooth things out, and maybe it won't help a bit.
Oh, and most of these hubs are spaced for 110mm rear dropouts. They also use 3/8 (I think) by 24 tpi axles. I usually "cold set" frames for them, but it can be pretty extreme to move each stay 10mm. Cold setting can be too much when you can see the stay bend at the brake bridge!
jsn
It does rattle a bit over bumps. I assume this is the shoes rattling around in the hub. Anyone have any ideas about this?
One thing I want to do with a Bendix hub I just got is to use loose ball bearings instead of the caged bearings so that I can add a ball or 2. The bearings seems very widely spaced as-is. Maybe it will smooth things out, and maybe it won't help a bit.
Oh, and most of these hubs are spaced for 110mm rear dropouts. They also use 3/8 (I think) by 24 tpi axles. I usually "cold set" frames for them, but it can be pretty extreme to move each stay 10mm. Cold setting can be too much when you can see the stay bend at the brake bridge!
jsn
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See, I was thinking it'd be cool to have a road bike converted to ss with a coaster brake. Kicking it semi-old skool, like my very first bike.
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Originally Posted by jsn
.
Oh, and most of these hubs are spaced for 110mm rear dropouts. They also use 3/8 (I think) by 24 tpi axles. I usually "cold set" frames for them, but it can be pretty extreme to move each stay 10mm. Cold setting can be too much when you can see the stay bend at the brake bridge!
jsn
Oh, and most of these hubs are spaced for 110mm rear dropouts. They also use 3/8 (I think) by 24 tpi axles. I usually "cold set" frames for them, but it can be pretty extreme to move each stay 10mm. Cold setting can be too much when you can see the stay bend at the brake bridge!
jsn
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We at the Institute are strong advocates of the coaster-braked bike, and put on a race for them each year - The NYC Coaster Brake Criterium. This was the first year we allowed fixies to join in. More info at www.primitivecycling.org.
Best wishes,
Dr. Hans
Best wishes,
Dr. Hans
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Originally Posted by jsn
I have a Hi Stop that is OK. It is very similar to the Bendix Red Line, but it has a spring that actively disengages the brake shoes when you are not braking. The Hi Stop hubs also come in 32 hole, which is nice.
It does rattle a bit over bumps. I assume this is the shoes rattling around in the hub. Anyone have any ideas about this?
One thing I want to do with a Bendix hub I just got is to use loose ball bearings instead of the caged bearings so that I can add a ball or 2. The bearings seems very widely spaced as-is. Maybe it will smooth things out, and maybe it won't help a bit.
Oh, and most of these hubs are spaced for 110mm rear dropouts. They also use 3/8 (I think) by 24 tpi axles. I usually "cold set" frames for them, but it can be pretty extreme to move each stay 10mm. Cold setting can be too much when you can see the stay bend at the brake bridge!
Jim
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Osobike
If you want to get a bike that looks like a fix gear, with the coaster brake already on it, there are some cool bikes at www.********.com
Last edited by garysol1; 10-19-08 at 08:27 PM.
#19
rawr
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thebikebiz has a custom coaster brake online wheel builder now,
https://www.thebikebiz.com/product_p/...l-custom02.htm
do these work good with knobby tires in winter conditions?
https://www.thebikebiz.com/product_p/...l-custom02.htm
do these work good with knobby tires in winter conditions?
#25
Senior Member
Beach racer:

This was an unloved cruiser, had the rear wheel relaced to a mavic rim, subbed in a front mtn bike wheel, and got 1.25 slicks. English "Touring" bars with very shallow drop, Raleigh 3sp saddle.
"Slumber Party Beast":

Cannondale Beast of the East frame w/ wheels from a kid's bike named "Slumber Party" that I found at the dump. Had to swap out the axel to fit the dropouts and the chainline is far from perfect. But it works. This is just to test 20" wheels on this frame (they work), with the thought of getting a set of 26" drum brake wheels relaced to 20" rims. Too lazy to delete the brake levers, shifters, derailleurs, and cables for this interim stage.
Coaster brakes are a total hoot.
This was an unloved cruiser, had the rear wheel relaced to a mavic rim, subbed in a front mtn bike wheel, and got 1.25 slicks. English "Touring" bars with very shallow drop, Raleigh 3sp saddle.
"Slumber Party Beast":
Cannondale Beast of the East frame w/ wheels from a kid's bike named "Slumber Party" that I found at the dump. Had to swap out the axel to fit the dropouts and the chainline is far from perfect. But it works. This is just to test 20" wheels on this frame (they work), with the thought of getting a set of 26" drum brake wheels relaced to 20" rims. Too lazy to delete the brake levers, shifters, derailleurs, and cables for this interim stage.
Coaster brakes are a total hoot.