So I want to make a track bike, both for track racing and time trialing, but the frame I want to use has 130mm spacing with horizontal dropouts that open towards the rear (like track dropouts), will it work out to use a track wheel with this frame? Is this going to work out, is the type of axle needed different depending on the wheel? thanks.

There are apparently a few hubs. But I'm getting the white industries ENO hub. Nice thing about it is that it can be used with vertical drop outs. Tension adjustment is done on the hub itself, but it works great with horizontal drop-outs too if you ignore the hub adjustment feature (done by the eccentric axle placement)

P.S. Those people crabbing about the "search function" stop being b1tches. The Road forum answers redundant questions all the time and probably explains why it has the most traffic at bikeforums.net.

Search function NAzis F-off.

If you haven't noticed, most people in here despise traffic (albeit of another sort). You'd know that if you had used the search function.

and you really shouldn't be calling people names. The search features shows moderator intervention for defeating the censor filter by re-arranging words. Tsk tsk...

hwttdz - you can also get some hubs re-spaced if needed too. If I may ask, what kind of frame?

The leader 730TT, a big reason for going for the 130 is that I can go geared if I want. I've never done this fixed before, but I'm going to hopefully be doing track racing and time trials in houston, where it's perfectly flat. Also it's a little appealing that it's aero because of the time trial aspect, don't know how much benefit that would be but at least I hope it doesn't hurt.

On getting the hubs respaced, can I do this with all? can I do this if I get a different axle? does the axle depend on the hub? I'm not sure what wheels I'd want to go with but I'd consider these http://nycbikes.com/item.php?item_id=254 . Why is it whenever I want to build a bike to use for anything it turns into something I want to use to race more, cyclocross, road, track, maybe mountain next.

On searching, I did and I didn't get any relevant info on the first few pages so I figured it wouldn't be too out of line to ask. Don't even know if that was directed at me, it was kind of difficult to understand.

:lol: Exactly, [165] knows what i'm talking about. That's hilarious.

Carry on.

P.S. You'll see a lot of dickheads here. I'll answer stuff though. Maybe this place will change and the azzhats will go away.

There are LOTS of 135mm 'track' hubs around these days.

I use a wheel built with one of our 135mm hubs in a frame spaced (by accident) to 130.

The chainline is 52mm, which is the outer chainring on triple crank. Which make finding cranks easy.

Surely not everyone's cup of tea, but they're out there.

Here's a photo of our 135mm hub:

http://www.kogswell.com/images/hubs.gif

As you can see, it's threaded for track cogs on both sides.

Put a 13 on one side and do flying 200s 'til ya puke. Then flip it around and use a 14 in the sprints.

This hub is also available in 120mm, w/ a 45mm chain line.

$55, including shipping.

http://www.philwood.com/webcatolog/page8.htm

I'm getting links for other 130mm stuff too. Might be pricey though. Kogswell's look nice.

http://www.irocycle.com/id67.html (130mm IRO hubset made by formula- not a bad price)

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/fixed-hubs.html (notice some have axles long enough to handle 130mm with spacers)

http://www.whiteind.com/ENO_web/eno-index.html

Thanks for all the replies, but the question that I was really interested it is would it be possible to take a 120mm hub, and respace it to 130mm, is all that is necessary for this a longer axle? 135 would not help at all, I'm working with a 130mm frame. I'd also like to avoid spending over $100 on just the rear hub, as some of the wheelsets I'm looking at are only $150ish.

I think IRO wheelset looks pretty good and It's available in 130mm. I haven't read anything bad about that particular wheel in these forums.

Velocity I think makes the exact same wheel too with a 130mm hub. (using formula hubs too)

If you are trying to save money getting a complete wheelset is the way to go rather than buying hubs separately. Hubs separately is a good idea if you want something special like "aero spokes" etc or a particular rim you like.

Deep V's alone are $45 each (cheapest I can find them). Then you got to add in hub price and spokes. Then something has to build it. It adds up quickly and often times the parts alone exceed the price of a completely built wheelset (that's before wheelbuilding labor which is often times upwards of $35 per wheel)

The IRO wheelset does look pretty good but it is $50 more than the foul weather flip flop from nycbikes, so I was wondering if the 120 mm hub could be respaced? I'm starting to feel like a broken record. I see that some say they are respaceable, some say nothing. If you put in a longer axle does that make it respaceable? That's the essence of the question. Could I use an axle from a set of road wheels?

Which 120mm hub are you trying to respace? I had no problems at all spacing an old sansin fixed/fixed hub out to 135, using a Wheels Manufacturing axle and some spacers.

Don't mention nycbikes unless you want to turn this thread into yet another rant about how much everyone hates them.

That's good to know, that nycbikes is questionable. Well I was thinking of respacing one of their 120mm hubs but now I'm rethinking it. Now I'm kind of at a loss as what to do.

For track racing is it legal to use a QR on the front wheel?

Mayhaps I'll just wait until I find a rear wheel I like on ebay and respace it as jim-bob makes it sound possible.

hmmm...seems to be a certain arrival of such a personality type as of late...can't say which way the winds blow in here any more. Not sure it matters really. Everyone loves to be the good gal or guy after they have had their fun, isn't that the truth 53_11?

I'm still the same . Nothing has changed and it never will change.

1. Tony stands aside his products proudly. I would go with these. I have only heard good things around here regarding these.
2. Spend the $50 if you have already deemed the other option as "foul weather." You have already made up your mind from what I can tell. It would be a good choice.

For what it is worth, NYCBikes is not the manufacturer. I know they have a semi-bad rap around here. I cannot attest one way or the other on this though. I do know, however, they sell the same inexpensive hub that many other shops also sell.
QBP also sells pre-built Suzue ones to MA3 rims for $100-ish. I do not think it is worth the money if you are serious about this bike set-up. They are loose bearing hubs that have not-so-great bearing races. This is problematic if you ride a lot and do little maintenance. It is about knowing your options, and I think you are off to a good start.

I find the $50 extra is $50 well spent in this case. Go the way of IRO.
Buy it once, buy it right.

and BINGO was his name-o! Thank 53_11. It is nice to have some new insight around here.

yeah you could respace the NYCbikes wheel to 130mm, but you'd probably need a longer axle.
The IRO hub is the same as the NYC/Formula etcetcetc.... hub *except* IRO specs their hub with a much longer axle (160mm, or is that 180mm) hmmm. I respaced the Formula hub to 126mm and I have barely enough thread engagement to be safe. The axle is definetly too short to space out to 130.

I don't think most velodromes will let you race with a QR front wheel.

For cup and cone hubs it's fairly easy. The axels are usually a standard size and thread. Just get a longer axle if required and some spacers.

For cartridge hubs is pretty much on a hub by hub basis. If there is enough axel you can just use spacers but sometimes they have to go between the lock nut and the frame. Really you want the part of the hub that contacts the frame to be serrated for grip and you may get stuck with smooth spacers.
If the axel isn't long enough then there is often little you can do. The axles typically have a smooth center section with sholders that the bearings press against and threaded ends. Different hubs have different size bearings and bearings at different positions in the hub shell so axles are not interchangable

The 2 velodromes in my state will not allow axles with QR on the track

I've searched before...you can just replace the axle on a 120mm hub ..but it's not easy to find a decent wheel at a good price... you'll be better off just getting a wheel from IRO--tell them you need it for a 130mm rear and it'll be set-up accordingly

Most velodromes will allow you to ride front Q.R. wheels but you need to replace the Q.R. with an allen key replacement skewer. I can't count the number of guys riding Rolf, Kysrium, etc at our velodrome. If they wont let you ride one of these with the aforementioned allen skewer they are being anal asses.

When spacing a 120mm hub to 130, just make sure the chainline on the hub matches the chailine the frame is designed for.

The IRO axle is pretty damn long as mentioned. It'll space to 130 no problem. You should be able to achieve chainline depending on the crank (track or double [inside or outer ring position]) and with the right bottom bracket.

and remember, respacing a hub symmetrically doesn't affect chainline.

No, but the position of the cog determines chainline. Track is 42mm while mtb is generally 52-53mm. ENO uses 47.5. You can adjust BB many times and the ring position, but big rings can rub the frame when used with narrow spaced hubs. Just something to look out for when doing conversions.

absntr - As I have a spare road crank lying around I'd like to use that. You mention I can use outside or inside, is there any preference there?

Also I'd like to stick with the BB I have. So is there a lot of freedom in adjusting chainline by moving only the cog?

Outside purely for aesthetics but it'll come down to what chainline you can get.

Do you know how long the spindle of your BB is? The cog is in a set place - you can't adjust it. What you can adjust is the BB and the inner/outer position of the chainring.

ENO is about ~46mm with a track cog, right?

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline/#sprockets

Isn't it 39.1 plus whatever the cog gives you according to that table?

My Level hub is 130 mm. I got the MTB 135mm axle spacers. Dude took them to a machine shop he knew of. 10 or 20 bucks later I had a 130mm hub; as a bro there machined them to the proper spacing. Voila.
You can't touch this.