tenacious oil
 

I just got back from a LBS that a respect a fair amount. They are the kind of guys that even though I haven't bought a bike there (only odds and ends when they have them) still give me free simple repairs and use of tools if I need them.

The thing is that they talked me out of using phil's tenacious oil on my fixed gear's chain. They said that it was too heavy. I know some of you use it. What is your impression?

I used to soak my chain in 90w gear oil, doesn't get much heavier. My chains last for ever but smell like crap. I've always been told the heavier the better for SS and fixies.

I use it without any trouble. I thought that's what it was for?? It's messy as hell that's for sure. What is everybody else using?

I have been using White Lightening Epic for the past 6 months or so.

And? Do you like it? Recommend it? Is it messy? Tell all.

The heavier the better. After all, you don't have to worry about slopping up your shifts. On the other hand, ask me why my orange bike's drive-side chainstay is completely black. I loves me some Prolink. The best advice I've heard with regard to that is, "when it stops being filthy black, reapply."

one part sythetic 5W30 cut with 4 parts mineral spirits.
which reminds me. it's time to reapply.

TriFlow. Anyone tried the dry stuff? I'm thinkin' of getting some once my bottle runs out.

I've got a bottle of triflow that I use to hit the deraillers and brake pivots on the geared bike. Never tried it on the chain though. It seems to do the job that I ask of it well enough.

The white lightning works very well, but I find that I need to reapply more often then I feel I should. There is a bit of noise, but I don't know if that is white lightning's fault.

Y'all put oil on your chains?

hmm...maybe that's why mine keep turning orange

http://www.rocklube.com/images/product_gold.jpg

Rock'n'Roll Gold -- http://www.rocklube.com

-s

campagnolo superlative. only the best for my babies.

i would describe it as two parts astroglide, one part chain wax, all mixed with sexy italian goodness.

prolink wee

I second this, I've worked on tons of machinery and the like and simple motor oil thinned out to the consistency of pancake syrup works quite well... not to mention I can make a half gallon of the stuff for a little less than a pack of smokes.

--Seth

I came back to post again because I felt bad for knocking (backhandedly) a phil product.

Phil bearing grease is phenomenal, i use it on every thread, bearing, and any other place grease would go on a bike.

Phil hand cleaner is the best stuff i've ever used. Nothing wipes away the grime of a day in the bike shop better than phil hand cleaner. And i deal with some dirty, dirty bikes. When coupled with some "scrubs" grit-impregnated hand cleaner wipes, I can have my hands go from "greasy wal-mart service center employee" to "prepped surgeon at the Mayo clinic" in about 3 minutes.

Phil, you still rock. I just like campy on my chains.

Also, "too heavy" sounds really dumb. A lubricant is a lubricant is a lubricant. Just don't use WD-40.

The last time I was at the LBS with a pretty grimy chain after a week of riding in some rain, I was told I was using too much lube. How much of your favorite lube do you use? I had been applying pretty generously on each link, working it in some, and wiping excess. I use Pedro's Syn Lube, if that matters

i have prolink at home, which never gets used because i always remember to lube my chain while i'm at work. at my old job, we used triflow. at my new job, we use DuMonde Tech. i still really like triflow, but the DuMonde Tech is also really nice. the light version is a little lighter than Phil's Tenacious.

i mostly use the Phil's stuff for re-lubing freewheels and freehub bearings, and it's a pretty good cable lube as well. it's also good for places like V-brake pivots, and pretty much anything else that pivots, like derailleurs, shifters, regular caliper brake pivots, and it's also good on spoke nipples to keep them from squeeking. i won't use it on my chain though, because it's just too thick and attracts too much grit and grime, which is what turns your chainstays black, and will also wear your chain, cog, and chainring faster, and also get your hands all greasy and disgusting when you get a flat and have to pull your chain off and then put it back on again.

if you're good about maintaining your drivetrain with some of the waterier stuff, you shouldn't have to worry about gobbing your chain up with some super thick lube. and if you wipe the excess off before you go out to ride, you won't get all the road dirt and grime in your chain at all.

s2sxiii- not all lubricants are created equal. different consistencies are formulated for different purposes. for a chain, you need something thinner, that will flow better and get into the tiny crevices and not attract a lot of dirt, because the chain is always explosed to the elements. you wouldn't lube your chain with 5wt shock oil, would you? if you're a hack and don't take care of your things, and don't bother to re-lube after riding in the rain, then by all means, gob your drivetrain up with the thickest grease you can find. for wheel and headset bearings, you need something much thicker, like polylube, or triflow syn grease that will lubricate the bearings and stick around, not flow out of where it's supposed to be, like motor oil or chain lube would, and it doesn't matter if it's too thick and attracts dirt, because hopefully, your headsets and hubs have dust covers to keep that crap out of them, and the grease in. saying "a lubricant is a lubricant is a lubricant" sounds pretty dumb to me.

what's the issue? i've heard (and repeated) dire warnings about using it, but don't exactly know why. please inform?

he told me!

edit: You are obviously right, I'll rephrase: A chain lubricant is a chain lubricant is a chain lubricant. Prolink, triflow, tenacious, T9, white lightening, pedros syn lube, pedros road rage, pedros ice wax, another kind of pedros i forget, krytech, finish line cross country, finish line teflon, they all lube your chain. Some are thicker, stickier, some more watery. none are as inherently awesome as campy superlative. Nor as overpriced.

another lube tip is to wipe down the chain post lubrication. You want to lube each link, run the chain through the gears (what?), and then wipe down the chain surface (which will coat the cogs when moving) till the chain is basically dry on the exterior. there will still be lube inside the links.

watch your fingers.

it sucks. ask OneTinSloth. If i smell it on your drivetrain, i burn it off with a lighter. No seriously, that's what we do.

cant you just use motor oil

eh, I've got 3000 miles on a chain on a bike that I bought at goodwill with who knows how many miles on it already using only wd40 as a lube. albeit I do take the chain off entirely and soak it in paint thinner when it stops being completely silent.

truths: it's not designed to be a lubricant
truths: it's cleans things very well, and clean things dont wear very quickly

I thought you were harvesting rust to pack into your Suzue Jrs :)

OK

I use Phil's Tenacious all the time on all of my drivetrains. The secret is to thin it out with a little WD-40 on a rag.

1) Apply Phil's to each link
2) Run through your drivetrain
3) Wipe off excess with a shop towel
4) Put WD-40 on a rag, wipe drivetrain. Keep doing it until the Phils stops making those long gooey strings between your cog/chainring/chain.
5) Profit!

This lube outlasts most others that I've tried.