Wheel security measures
 

Have any of you ever tried to borrow one of the many nut securing techniques from general mechanics to further prevent your wheels and etc from being ripped. Nothing too tricky really but any extra step required to get to the goods is going to help. I think Im going to locate some tabbed washers. A cotter pin would be rad but I doubt it would work. Wire Locking could work if you just drilled a hole through the protruding end of your axle or through a chord of your track nut and just wound some wire around your dropout or something.

http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tabl...s/Locking.html

Maybe I'm silly, but I just use my u-lock and the occasional cable.

You sure are, silly.

Aw, shucks.

If you had Phil's, you could probably get some sort of security screw to hold the hubs in place, rather than the standard hex wrench

tabbed washers aren't gonna keep your wheels from walking away, all they'll do is make sure they don't fall off if you forgot to tighten the nuts before picking up your bike...
the cotter pin seems to be the only thing on that page that would be any kind of detterent at all, everything else is adding a couple of seconds to the time it'll take to boost them...
i still think hose clamps over a QR lever is a pretty good option, but like the cottered bolts, it's not gonna stop anyone, just make them take a little longer...

This thread has some useful suggestions, esp the pitlock locking nuts for track hubs:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=63312

My thought is that even a tabbed washer requires another tool. Yeah if you come prepared with a screwdriver in one hand and a peanutbutter wrench in the other the extra time it takes would be marginal, but I don't think most theft happens like that. Requiring some ingenuity definitely puts some time in there, and breaks up the plan of the thief. I agree its not everything, but making it take a little longer is really all you've got, and often is the separation between stolen and not stolen. I dont leave my bike outside anywhere for much more than an hour, but still..... It seems like it would be worth it.

How would tabbed washers _only_ make sure they dont fall off if you forgot to tighten the nuts?

If you have a friend at a machine shop or are willing to pay for it have special nuts and a wrench made. Not a big deal to the right person. Just remember to make an extra wrench and not lose it.

I'm silly too. it's the airborne particulates here in the east bay

Why not drill a small hole in the axle and put a pad lock on. I'm sure a luggage lock would do well. After all you just need to be more sucure than the guy next to you.

I have a friend that works at an architect at some fancy industrial design/fabrication shop. Im going to see what methods of overengineering they can come up with and report back.

I use a quick lock skewer on the front and run my lock through the rear. and yeah I got the quick lock after some $^&#^$#* snagged my bolted on garbage front wheel..

Also worth noting, most track geometries are tight enough that you can run a kryptonite chain through both the front and rear wheels, and around a pole of course.

If by "ripped" you mean "stollen", I thought there were available at one time lockable skewers.

Tuf-Nuts! Not just a body part anymore.

http://www.tufnut.com/product.aspx?p...category_id=20

peace,
sam

too bad those tough nutts are 1" square at the base.

Ooops: $63.45 USD

I think its 100 pieces...

Just crank down your axle nuts and then grind the flats off them. You'll be fine, as long as you never flat.

Maybe someone should buy a bag of Tuff-nuts and sell them out here. You'd need 5 per bike (four for the axels, one to install/remove them).

For people running Phil Wood hubs, there are a bunch of security screws we can get to fit. Not sure of the thread pitch but I'm sure I can figure that out. Heres a run down on the types of heads (with pictures) http://www.tamperproof.com/index.cfm...ction=products

The snake eyes wouldn't work unless you want to not beable to wrench down on your axles. The socket or torx pin-head type would work the best. That company doesn't have a socket-cap style bolt but Hudson Fasteners does (http://www.hudsonfasteners.com/sec/sec_sc_pss_al.htm). They claim they only sell to legit businesses for security reasons.

Maybe a group order for those as well?

if a tabbed washer is thin enough that you can fold the tabs up just using hand tools, then just cranking a wrench on the nut is gonna cause the the nut to flatten out those tabs itself... now there's just the little tab going in the hole, which just means you need to loosen the nut a few more turns... like lawyer lips but removable...