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what's the problem
ok i have problem and need some help. if i skid when i got to take off again and pedal hard my cranks turn like a half turn before my wheel moves, i almost nutted my self the first time this happend. my chain is tight, i use tugs so thats good, my cog and chain ring are in good shape what else should i check
thanx |
check to make sure your lockring is tightened down all of the way.
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there's really no way that chain slop could account for a half turn -- i would absolutely recheck your cog and lockring. that is almost certainly what it is.
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if not the cog....try checking your chainring bolts...if they are loose you could f up your chain ring
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I had the same problem right before my lockring stripped right off my hub. Skidding puts a lot of stress on your drivetrain. what I did was took off the lockring and replaced it with JB weld. I hope it works?
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Originally Posted by brooklyn
what I did was took off the lockring and replaced it with JB weld. I hope it works?
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sounds like a stripped hub
or your on your way to one if you don't keep the cog and lockring tight |
its an iro hub. ive had it maybe 4 monthes its only got 1000 miles on it. im not a guy who skids all the time. that sucks
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im not bad mouthing iro ,just thought what kinda hub might help with some idea.
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Originally Posted by cabana 4 life
im not bad mouthing iro ,just thought what kinda hub might help with some idea.
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Check and see if there is a gap between your cog and the lockring. Some of the makes are thinner than others.
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I second what Cynikal said. What kind of cog/lockring are you using? My IRO hub came with a Soma cog/Forumla lockring and the cog had a pretty narrow base. I replaced it with an EAI cog with a much wider base for engaging the hub threads (a lot more quiet, too). I kept the same lockring for now, though I should have upgraded that when I got the cog. Seems to be pretty inexpensive hub insurance.
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i had the same thing happen a while ago when i switched cogs for the first time.
turns out i didn't tighten the cog and lockring enough. even though the cog slipped back a bit, the threads onteh hub didn't strip. put that cog on as tight as you can, then see if you can tighten is some more. then put the lockring on as tight as you can, and then a little tighter after that. should be ok. |
Make sure when you tighten your stuff down, you use the right tools. I was almost caught with my fly down when i tried to tighten my lockring with something other than a lockring wrench. Hard riding (forward) followed by gradually coasting to a stop should put ample torque on your cog so that you will not need a chain whip. However, make sure that the lockring is on tightly. If you don't have the right tool (I have the Hozan lockring wrench), go to someone who has one or buy one somewhere... you will f*** up your hub otherwise.
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had the same thing happening and i couldn't figure out why the lockring wasn't holding the cog tight enough, especially since the guy at my lbs tightened it right in front of me. ...but it was still slipping. found out it wasn't being tightened sufficiently because he was tightening the lockring without removing the chain, therefore the spanner was not straight on the lockring because the chain was in the way. if the spanner isn't perfectly straight on the lockring you can only get it so tight before the spanner pops off.
make sure you do it right. crank hard up a hill, get off your bike. then remove the chain and tighten that lockring down as tight as you possibly can. should do the trick. |
Originally Posted by andylago
make sure you do it right. crank hard up a hill, get off your bike. then remove the chain and tighten that lockring down as tight as you possibly can. should do the trick.
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go figure. funny how it all gets so simple when you do it right.
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it's not a good sign...
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try putting the cog on finger tight then putting the cog in a vise and turning the wheel tight, do the riding thing then put the lockring on
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i definitely cannot put enough emphasis on making sure that the cog is extremely tight before you put on the lockring. given that the lockring is reverse threaded, it will attempt loosen the cog as you tighten it down. this is to say that if you start cranking down your lockring before the cog is really secure, you can strip threads before even riding the bicycle.
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Don't bother trying to tighten it by riding or ruining your cog in a vise. rotafixa it.
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holla for the rotafix tightening method.
here's another question, cause it was mentioned by emayex. when i don't use my handbrake for a week or so, i find my chainring bolts come loose, and that's a ****ing pain. what tool do i need to tighten those annoying little ****ers? i have an allen key but it's that little guy in the back that makes it tough. and how do i prevent it from happening again and again, short of loctiting the whole effin' affair? |
This dude here will do you up right: http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ut+Wrench.aspx
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You can use a normal flathead screwdriver (boo), just tighten the Allen-head until it grips, or get the appropriate Park Chainring Bolt tool. Or, you can, as you said, loctite it.
Loctite isn't permanent, you can undo things that have been held with it. I've got loctited chainring bolts, and they have been solid for 2 weeks. *edit* count on bostontrevor to beat me to the punch. |
Re: cog slipping-- This is why I have this site bookmarked. Got a wheelset over the weekend and on my way across town this morning had the same slipping occur on the drivetrain. Lesson learned: tight can always be tighter. You guys rule.
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