suzue can shove it
#26
information sponge
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Originally Posted by crushkilldstroy
yeah, one of my bikes has suzue jr's on it. no problems with threads stripping, but i do have to repack the bearings if i look at the hubs wrong.
I've seen a number of those with bent axles as well as a number with stripped threads. Have you had problems with this?
__________________
Philosophy and feelings don't change the laws of physics
Philosophy and feelings don't change the laws of physics
#27
Traffic shark
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Originally Posted by Ceya
don't buy cheap! The Pro Max are the hubs to get.You buy the low end get low end results.
S/F,
CEYA!
S/F,
CEYA!
#28
Traffic shark
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Originally Posted by daveIT
Are the (lame) mods on vacation or something?
The sad thing is they really don't mind what goes on in here, except we tell on our selves.
My new solution: we should have an opt in warning like the poly forum has. That'd fix things.
#29
downtube shifter
Originally Posted by daveIT
Yeah, some prudes got all upset at the "My Other Ride Is Your Mom" under my avatar and told on me, I'm surprised they are not all over this one. Are the (lame) mods on vacation or something?
Originally Posted by William Karsten
The sad thing is they really don't mind what goes on in here, except we tell on our selves.
#30
i chew straws
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sounds like the ghetto hubs my khs came with. i just bought a used set of wheels (phils laced to mavic cxp 33s) on ebay and haven't looked back since even though i had to laydown some bling for them. at least i can still run that old wheel ss or bum bike it for a cruiser and loctite a cog on since there is still some threading left.
#31
bah
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yeah... im really kinda screwed. i think that i can get the cash together to get a wheel but im gonna be bikeless for a couple weeks it would appear.
#32
WWFSMD?
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Originally Posted by treechunk
I've seen a number of those with bent axles as well as a number with stripped threads. Have you had problems with this?
#34
perspective distorts
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i too have stripped not one but two of those suckers out. i guess the real sucker is me tho. now i have an IRO, now problems so far, but i don't ever skid b/c i suck at it. if you wanted, you could rotafix and locktight that biitch back on and ride with a brake for a while, at least until your new hub arrives.
#35
Wher'd u Get That Jacket?
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Go ride Level. No threads to strip.
#36
Senior Member
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Those Suzue Promax are pretty.
But yeah, the basics, or Jrs or whatever are garbage.
But yeah, the basics, or Jrs or whatever are garbage.
#37
blacksheep the blemish
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About the bent axles, I've bent myself a Promax rear, and before you go making weight judgements.... I'm 140 pounds.
#39
aka mattio
Originally Posted by crushkilldstroy
yeah, one of my bikes has suzue jr's on it. no problems with threads stripping, but i do have to repack the bearings if i look at the hubs wrong.
#40
Tiocfáidh ár Lá
Originally Posted by slopvehicle
I've been on one for around a year with much backpedaling, occasional skids, no problems. DA cog and lockring.
Originally Posted by Cynikal
I have the same set up, had for about 2 years. Last week in the middle of noon traffic my cog spun off. I quickly went home and bought a IRO.
I have same set up and have been riding brakeless for two years. Uh Oh is it time?
Actually since I have heard so many horror stories like this I have since put a front emergency brake on. When it dies I will get something more solid.
#41
Senior Member
It can???
I gotsta get me one o' thems Suzues!
I gotsta get me one o' thems Suzues!
#42
Senior Moment
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Don't know if this is helpful to anyone but I have an old Suzue jr or basic or whatever and has very short cog threads. it requires the use of thin cogs that are about 1/2 the width of the regular cogs from most makers. otherwise the cog overhangs the lockring threads and only leaves like 2 threads for the lockring to engage. I've seen on better quality hubs where the lockring is too wide and hangs over the outside edge of the threaded part of the hub. I never checked to see how many threads were engaged in those cases. *HOWEVER*... A general rule of thumb for threads is that you need 3 threads fully engaged for full strength. For example, a thread pitch of 3/8" -24 (3/8" diameter, 24 threads per inch, actually not a thread pitch used much on bikes AFAIK, but a good example anyway) would require 1/8" of full engagement to achieve full strength since 1/8 of 24 is 3. I don't recall what the lockring threads pitch is but make sure you have full engagement or they will blow off under load. hmmm perhaps I should rephrase that....
Originally Posted by Fantomas
So yeah.. 2nd check point into the reload ride yesterday....going down a hill... attempt to put on some back pressure... WOOOOOP! There goes my ****ing cog.
two sidewalks and a large amount of foot dragging I came to a stop.
Ring threads are GONE.
two sidewalks and a large amount of foot dragging I came to a stop.
Ring threads are GONE.
#43
jack of one or two trades
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Originally Posted by heebro
Don't know if this is helpful to anyone but I have an old Suzue jr or basic or whatever and has very short cog threads. it requires the use of thin cogs that are about 1/2 the width of the regular cogs from most makers. otherwise the cog overhangs the lockring threads and only leaves like 2 threads for the lockring to engage. I've seen on better quality hubs where the lockring is too wide and hangs over the outside edge of the threaded part of the hub. I never checked to see how many threads were engaged in those cases. *HOWEVER*... A general rule of thumb for threads is that you need 3 threads fully engaged for full strength. For example, a thread pitch of 3/8" -24 (3/8" diameter, 24 threads per inch, actually not a thread pitch used much on bikes AFAIK, but a good example anyway) would require 1/8" of full engagement to achieve full strength since 1/8 of 24 is 3. I don't recall what the lockring threads pitch is but make sure you have full engagement or they will blow off under load. hmmm perhaps I should rephrase that....
#44
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Originally Posted by Aeroplane
If the problem is thick cogs (generally a good thing) not allowing enough lockring engagement, you might try the new Surly lockrings. They have an inset edge; the actual threads extend further in than the side of the lockring that is in contact with the cog. Thus, more lockring threads engaged.
Sorry, I couldn't help myself.
#45
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When I was going to build my first wheel I looked at the Suzue and the Surley hubs. The Suzue just felt gritty as hell, due to the unsealed bearings, while the Surley hubs were smooth. I went with the Surley. I still like those hubs I've trashed two of them because of the way I torqued them into the drops, which spun the cone nuts into the sealed bearings causing the hub to freeze up. But a screwdriver and a new set of bearings the wheel was back on the road.
I can't help my self either... I got a thick cog, and sealed balls.
I can't help my self either... I got a thick cog, and sealed balls.
#46
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About all the bent axels out there. I had an suzue axel bend after I wrecked on a lamppole while drunk. My rim and leg were a bit out of true but the new axle was only a couple bucks. Basically nothing. The new rim and spokes...quite a bit more.
#48
Crack is back!
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Is there any thought that maybe a low end hub with high end cog and lock ring would change anything? The reason I say this is I have a set of juniors with DA cog and ring and I have had no problems with them at all. I skid and skip all the time with no problems with the threads or the axle. Just a thought.