We all know that Jr and Basics are uber trash. The promax is trash too. Fixing a flat and putting my wheel back on the frame, the damn cones come loose. Shouldn't happen. Also, the bearings aren't as precise (loose ball) as they should be for the price. A couple years ago, I built up a sealed bearing fix-free flip flop, and the same problem, but reverse--tightening the cones when I put the wheel on the frame--happened, destroying the bearings. And its not like I don't properly torque the locknut. F*ck suzue!! Then, when I put the 120 hub in the 126 spaced frame, squeezing the dropouts a bit, the axle ended up stripping. F*ck suzue!!! Never buy anything from suzue!!!

Basic is trash!! (Of course)
Junior is trash!! (Of course)
Promax is trash!!
CF Promax is probably trash too!!!

I don't know man, I haven't had any problems with my Pro-max's and I ride the crap out of them.
I guess this is a case of YMMV...

I love when people turn one bad experience with a product into evidence that the product as a whole is junk.
Pro-Max are not trash.
Sorry.

sounds, for the most part, like user error to me. or, in the worst case, poor assembly at the factory. the problems that you mention (with the possible exception of the stripped axle) are common issues with any hub. not having the cones properly dialed in, of course, will cause play. cones can and will come loose over time, especially if the wheels are ridden hard. and, yes, believe it or not, sealed bearing hubs can have problems too. you really have to make sure that the "cone" (not really a cone on sealed bearing hubs) and locknut are very tight against each other. tightening down a wheel, especially if you torque the track nuts too hard, causes problems with all sorts of hubs. the fact of the matter is that most hubs use a threaded axle.. and, believe it or not, the locknuts and cones can and will move.

you haven't really said anything about the quality of the hubs themselves. it seems that when properly setup, they are more than fine. i'm sure that i and many many others can vouch for the quality of the promax hubs.

in typical american fashion you're blaming everyone/thing but yourself when something goes wrong.

i love my Promax's so much i take them to bed with me.

Ah would that I could be those hubs... Alas my cones are always a bit loose, and nobody loves me :P

no, I'm basing it on 2 experiences. and yes I know how to adjust a hub and torque the locknut agains the cone. and I'm not talking about stuff that's been ridden hard. the first promax wheel I built was for a friend, and this happened while I was riding the bike for a week or so. the second is my recent wheelset with fix-fix promaxes.

maybe I've just been unlucky, but I would NEVER recommend promaxes to anyone. my next wheelset will be phil.

Yup, I'm going to have to join everyone else and say, sorry for the bad experience. I know too many people who have nothing but love for them. I have ridden my Pro Max SB for several seasons in all sorts of weather and apart from the bearings finally going to seed, it has been nothing but a top notch workhorse.

I'm really happy because I finally got around to getting the pieces and building up the matching front (Pro Max on black ano Open Pro).

phils are trash too

because i cannot afford them :p

did I mention that the front hub was slightly pitted out of the box? Like an idiot, I built it up before looking inside of it.

Here's another way to look at it: this is an NJS-certified manufacturer and NJS-certified parts. Maybe you got a bad run or something, but the fact is they would be dropped like a bad habit if they had the kind of widespread quality control problems you're alleging.

how do you know it was pitted out of the box and not a result of some dumbass move you made when installing/adjusting it?

also, squeezing a frame down to 120 from 126? strippin the axles? okay - let me get this straight - you're rubbing a hard metal surface on a threaded metal surface repeatedly and you DON'T expect it to strip? I don't care if it worked for other people - it's a bad idea to use products for anything other than there intended uses and expect perfection.

IF MAYBE it was the fault of Suzue, get a hold of the people you bought it from and see what they say. Maybe you got a dud, but to totally write off all suzue products is insane.

"It's a "Jump to Conclusions mat". You see, you have this mat, with different CONCLUSIONS written on it that you could JUMP TO."

Your mechanic is trash!

I write them all off, but that's only cuz I'm a Dura-Ace *****.

Well put. And I disagree with you generic I have a set of promax that I ride daily for about three years now and all I have too say about them is good.

so i mean, promaxes are hot and i wish i rode on one... but i just had one and the lockring threads stripped.

of course something went wrong somewhere, but it was properly put on with good components and given the greenlight by multiple mechanics. ****er still stripped in a week.

I asked my LBS to order a Suzue hub for me a month ago, filled out an order form and everything. They never called me back to let me know the hub had arrived!

Suzue is trash! Don't buy Suzue!

**** everthing, I hate life. But bikes rule ****in hard.

The cheapo Suzue fixed/free hub is trash. I've been riding one for almost two years, and considering the whole wheel it came with cost less than $40 new, it's gotta be trash. When it finally gives up the ghost, I'll inform you all what a big piece of trash it truly is.

ok, it seems that most people are happy with the quality of the pro-max hubs, and that most people do think that the basics are trash.

however, does it worry people that these two hubs are manufactured and sold by the same company? how can you trust the company when you know they make such a horrible product? i mean, i don't think we're not talking about the difference between dura-ace and sora here. this is much worse.

Not really.

Schwinn, Trek, Peugot... or if you want to talk components, how about the cheap stamped Shimano garbage that gets sold on second-rung-from-the-bottom X*Mart crap.

I mean this thing sort of makes Sora look like a gleaming jewel.

http://www.nashbar.com/nashbar_photo...H-RDTY15SS.gif

ok, so I wrote the original post in a heat of anger at the hubs earller this morning. still: the pitting issue is legit, and speaks poorly for quality control. the only spinning the hubs got before I took them apart was in building them up. this sort of spinning can't possibly result in pitting unless maybe the hub is really really tight, which it wasn't. I do admit that it wasn't so smart to build before looking inside them.

Second, the bearings just aren't as precise as they should be. In order to remove wiggle, they have to be a little too tight. I've spent hours on this, and I also took it to a mech, who had the some idea about suzue (especilly vis a vis dura ace or campy). I mean, they are not terrible, but for the price they fetch, they should be better.

Regarding the NJS theory: mine are not stamped NJS. I think they are only NJS in 32h and mine are 28. This may or may not have anything to do with anything.

Regarding dropout squeezing: Sure, probably not the best idea. Today, I would either respace or get a 126 mm hub. But at the time, I just dug around in the spare-axle drawers of a local bike co-op until I found a rear axle with the same thread pitch. I swapped it out, squeezed again, and the replacement worked fine. At the time, I chalked the first thing up to bad luck.

Call me crazy, but I've had bad luck with suzue (and I've never understood the hologram stickers on the side either), and I'll not buy their stuff again.

disco for life!

Only 36h on ANY hub is NJS. fyi.

This just in : You didn't tighten the locknuts enough.

Sorry about the bad luck with them. Cup/cone are nice, but I just do the SB's for ease of use... no fiddling around with adjustments.