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High Flange Hub Failure

Old 01-18-06, 06:16 PM
  #51  
ryan_c
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Originally Posted by Batavus
Check out my post on 3l3t on teh mechanics forum:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ading+trailing

I've since relaced the wheel 3 cross, which returned the hubs to true, but I can't be sure the flanges aren't weakened because of the 3l3t pattern.

Has anyone built 3l3t without interlacing the spokes? I would build a wheel again with this pattern `for looks, but only if it doesn't cause this insane hub wobble.
Very strange, although I don't think I would trust high-flange hubs with cutouts with a lacing pattern like that, where you are pulling a certain way on the hub flange for a big stretch of flange (3 consecutive spokes). Mine was on a pretty stout coaster brake hub, so I'm still never going to give "hub trueness" more than a passing thought. I also wouldn't hesitate to do the build again on a low to medium-flange (a la Surly, not quite high) solid flange hub. Someone in that thread mentioned crosses very close to the hub which I think is at least somewhat BS, the closest cross to the hub flange is like an inch away - BFD. Any closer intersection CANNOT be crossed with those spoke angles. The crosses on the 36h 3x low-flange road wheel that I happen to be looking at (closest to me, not behind other bikes) are much closer to the hub flange than on your 3l/3t build. I think the reason is what I said above.
Bottom line: Watch your hub choice with this lacing pattern.
I just woke up from a nap and am groggy, hope that makes sense.
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Old 01-18-06, 09:41 PM
  #52  
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nah bax, theyre 120s
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Old 01-19-06, 04:56 PM
  #53  
Batavus
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Originally Posted by ryan_c
Very strange, although I don't think I would trust high-flange hubs with cutouts with a lacing pattern like that, where you are pulling a certain way on the hub flange for a big stretch of flange (3 consecutive spokes). Mine was on a pretty stout coaster brake hub, so I'm still never going to give "hub trueness" more than a passing thought. I also wouldn't hesitate to do the build again on a low to medium-flange (a la Surly, not quite high) solid flange hub. Someone in that thread mentioned crosses very close to the hub which I think is at least somewhat BS, the closest cross to the hub flange is like an inch away - BFD. Any closer intersection CANNOT be crossed with those spoke angles. The crosses on the 36h 3x low-flange road wheel that I happen to be looking at (closest to me, not behind other bikes) are much closer to the hub flange than on your 3l/3t build. I think the reason is what I said above.
Bottom line: Watch your hub choice with this lacing pattern.
I just woke up from a nap and am groggy, hope that makes sense.
Low flange could be more suitable, but Hf + 3l3t is double cool points. But I'm not stupid enough to risk hub failure and a possible future in a wheel chair( Hey, maybe i could do a 3l3t on those chair wheels, hmmm) just so I can look cool on my bike. besides, only bike mechanics and amateur wheelbuilders would ever notice... But 3l3t is just such a beautiful pattern to look at.

A hub with cut outs is most likely weaker, but the same thing happened on my second fixie wheelbuild where i used solid Miche primato HF hubs, though I must admit the hub wobble was significantly less than on the cut out shimano HF hubs. I decided not to take the risk and relace the primato's before anything worse could happen.

it could very well be that your coaster brake hub is just much beefier and stronger. Kudos to you for doing a rear wheel with this pattern. I may try to relace the Shmano hubs 3l3t again, but this time without lacing the spokes at all. See if the lack of lacing puts less stress on the bub.

thanks for your reply!

Ivo
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