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-   -   slippage.. what's going on here? (help plz) (https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/173145-slippage-whats-going-here-help-plz.html)

transplant 02-11-06 12:48 PM

slippage.. what's going on here? (help plz)
 
okay, so here's what's going on: something in the drivetrain in "slipping" for lack of a better term. if i put all my weight forward, say to accelerate quickly, the crank slips forward maybe a 1/5th or so of a full rotation before it "catches" again. the same thing happens if i have to brake hard and pull back.

i tightened the cog and lockring, so i don't those're the problem. i could check again though. i've tightened down everything else i can think of. just hoping it's not a bb problem?


suggestions?

metallo pesante 02-11-06 12:52 PM

most likely your lockring or cog isn't tight enough, because you just described the exact situation that occurs when your cog slips against your lockring.

geog_dash 02-11-06 12:53 PM

Is your chain tight enough?

transplant 02-11-06 12:55 PM


Originally Posted by geog_dash
Is your chain tight enough?

yes..

Sin-A-Matic 02-11-06 12:55 PM

I don't think it could be a bb problem, could it? They spin as freely as they're allowed. It doesn't have any built in resistance to give and so long as it's rotating properly on its axis, I don't think that could be a problem.

If your chain isn't slack, I think it would have to be cog / lockring.

xthugmurderx 02-11-06 12:56 PM

put a cassette ss spacer between the cog and the lockring. that is your problem. they may be tight, but they aren't flush. do what i said, and do it sooner than later.

-jason

transplant 02-11-06 12:58 PM


Originally Posted by xthugmurderx
put a cassette ss spacer between the cog and the lockring. that is your problem. they may be tight, but they aren't flush. do what i said, and do it sooner than later.

-jason


ahhhhh.... that could do it but it doesn't look like there's enough thread on the outside of the lockring to add a spacer

xthugmurderx 02-11-06 01:17 PM

get the thinnest one you can find, it should be enough. and theres room. i had to do that to my miche's with a dura ace cog.

-jason

AfterThisNap 02-11-06 01:18 PM

100 dollars on the chainring bolts being loose.
It feels a lot like something is loose on the rear wheel, but it's the ring slipping on the crank spider. Try leaning against a wall and pushing hard (back and forth) on the pedals, watch for the chain staying still as your cranks slip forward a bit.

xthugmurderx 02-11-06 01:20 PM

i'll take that bet. a fifth of a rotation? no way. it'd be past the end of the bolts in no time. there's not room for that kind of slop in the spider.

-jason
edit: the chainrings being loose have a feeling more like chain slop than slippage.

lumenredundas 02-11-06 01:30 PM

no its deffinatly the chainring bolts being loose, and or they have warped the holes they sit in. it happened on my FSA chainring.

you just need to take them out clean it and replace them

XVX

transplant 02-11-06 01:37 PM

i made a point of tightening the chainring this morning before i rode. i just don't see how loose chainring bolts could physically produce what i'm experiencing. it's not just a little push/pull here and there, but a full on lurch forward or backward.

xthugmurderx 02-11-06 01:45 PM

hahah. word. i'd go get that taken care of before the race. for real. that could strip your hub. you don't want that.

-jason

transplant 02-11-06 01:46 PM

thanks jason...i'm riding a different bike in the race, so this isn't an immediate priority.

AfterThisNap 02-11-06 01:46 PM

awwww, -1 for the loss...

transplant 02-11-06 01:47 PM

haha... i'm thankful for all the suggestions. i'll hopefully get this sorted soon... like before i strip the hub.

xthugmurderx 02-11-06 01:49 PM


Originally Posted by AfterThisNap
awwww, -1 for the loss...

so, about that hundred bucks? hahaha. i've had both of those things happen to me. there's a huge difference in feel. but now i gotta go fix my path of resistance cd. stupid skipping.

-jason

solostyle 02-11-06 07:55 PM


Originally Posted by transplant
okay, so here's what's going on: something in the drivetrain in "slipping" for lack of a better term. if i put all my weight forward, say to accelerate quickly, the crank slips forward maybe a 1/5th or so of a full rotation before it "catches" again. the same thing happens if i have to brake hard and pull back.

i tightened the cog and lockring, so i don't those're the problem. i could check again though. i've tightened down everything else i can think of. just hoping it's not a bb problem?


suggestions?

I'm having the same kind of problem. Tonight my friend and I checked out my bike the best we could and it looks like maybe where the cog threads and the lockring reverse threads (on the hub) meet, the cog is not wide enough to come up all the way to the edge of that meeting point. Of course the manufacturer would make sure the lockring and cog were perfectly flush, but if you switch cogs around, the cog may not be the same width.

My problem was different, though. It might be that the cog width doesn't quite match, but the more likely problem is that the lockring reverse threads are stripped at the meeting point of the cog threads. The evidence that suggests this, is that no matter how much we try to tighten the lockring, it doesn't seem to actually tighten. It always feels a little easy to turn. We tried loosening the lockring, however, and it actually felt tighter further out. That's because those threads are not as worn out. Or so we think. So I basically need a new hub and therefore a wheel rebuilding. All transplant probably needs is a new spacer.

xthugmurderx 02-11-06 08:13 PM


Originally Posted by solostyle
I'm having the same kind of problem. Tonight my friend and I checked out my bike the best we could and it looks like maybe where the cog threads and the lockring reverse threads (on the hub) meet, the cog is not wide enough to come up all the way to the edge of that meeting point. Of course the manufacturer would make sure the lockring and cog were perfectly flush, but if you switch cogs around, the cog may not be the same width.

My problem was different, though. It might be that the cog width doesn't quite match, but the more likely problem is that the lockring reverse threads are stripped at the meeting point of the cog threads. The evidence that suggests this, is that no matter how much we try to tighten the lockring, it doesn't seem to actually tighten. It always feels a little easy to turn. We tried loosening the lockring, however, and it actually felt tighter further out. That's because those threads are not as worn out. Or so we think. So I basically need a new hub and therefore a wheel rebuilding. All transplant probably needs is a new spacer.


sounds like your lockring threads are stripped. no good.

eddiebrannan 02-11-06 08:50 PM


Originally Posted by AfterThisNap
100 dollars on the chainring bolts being loose.
It feels a lot like something is loose on the rear wheel, but it's the ring slipping on the crank spider. Try leaning against a wall and pushing hard (back and forth) on the pedals, watch for the chain staying still as your cranks slip forward a bit.


see you and raise you

xthugmurderx 02-11-06 08:53 PM


Originally Posted by eddiebrannan
see you and raise you

man, you can't see and raise after you see the hand! pssh! we already decided that wasn't it. but it's nice of you to jump in the game. better late than never.

-jason

edit: fixing my ******

eddiebrannan 02-11-06 08:58 PM

oh my bad didn't see that :D


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