bb/crankset on conversion
02-23-06, 09:47 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 455
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
bb/crankset on conversion
pretty soon I'm starting a conversion; my first fixed bike. I don't know the spacing on the frame between the dropouts because it's in the mail right now.
At first I was confused about how I will get a track wheelset on there but I figured I can put space washers in there to get it to work with 120mm(my guess). Ok, as far as the crankset goes I have worries. If I got a crankset made for 107mm or 110mm can I just slap a new BB in there? will it fit with the road frame? would there be chainline issues between the frame and the chain?
Also the frame comes with the original headset (this frame is from 79). I can continue to use this right?
At first I was confused about how I will get a track wheelset on there but I figured I can put space washers in there to get it to work with 120mm(my guess). Ok, as far as the crankset goes I have worries. If I got a crankset made for 107mm or 110mm can I just slap a new BB in there? will it fit with the road frame? would there be chainline issues between the frame and the chain?
Also the frame comes with the original headset (this frame is from 79). I can continue to use this right?
02-23-06, 10:01 PM
#2
don't pedal backwards...
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 754
Bikes: Surly Long Haul Trucker set up for commuting and loaded touring, old Sekine road frame converted to fixed-gear, various beaters and weird bikes, waiting on the frame for my Surly Big Dummy build
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If this is a typical old steel frame, it's not hard at all to get the rear stays cold-set (a fancy term for bent) to a new spacing. If the spacing is pretty close already, you can even just use it as is and let the stays bend a little to get to the right width.
If the headset isn't shot, go ahead and use it. The worst that could happen would be that you realize you need a new headset. If you can get it adjusted so it doesn't have any play (lock the front brake and rock the bike forwards and back to test) and still turns freely, you should be fine. A headset isn't exactly a precision bearing on a bike. It is mainly a convenience to allow you to steer more easily.
No clue on the BB and crank issues...
If the headset isn't shot, go ahead and use it. The worst that could happen would be that you realize you need a new headset. If you can get it adjusted so it doesn't have any play (lock the front brake and rock the bike forwards and back to test) and still turns freely, you should be fine. A headset isn't exactly a precision bearing on a bike. It is mainly a convenience to allow you to steer more easily.
No clue on the BB and crank issues...
02-23-06, 10:53 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,848
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
1979 road frame? 126 mms rear end... eventually if u have a japanese set of cranks a 107/110 will go fine (i would go with the shorter one). Do u know if the BB is italian or english threaded?
Regarding the rear wheel what I would do is get a mavic or a campy 126 mms rear wheel (those ones w/o cassete) flip the axle so the spacers r at the other side, redish and true wheel. In that way u dont have to deal with washers and other stuff.
If the headset is all busted it will work anyways... a headset last forever specialy those old steel ones. as MacG said " It is mainly a convenience to allow you to steer more easily"
cya
UM.
Regarding the rear wheel what I would do is get a mavic or a campy 126 mms rear wheel (those ones w/o cassete) flip the axle so the spacers r at the other side, redish and true wheel. In that way u dont have to deal with washers and other stuff.
If the headset is all busted it will work anyways... a headset last forever specialy those old steel ones. as MacG said " It is mainly a convenience to allow you to steer more easily"
cya
UM.
02-23-06, 11:08 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 455
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the help guys. So far the only thing bought is the frame, meaning I have full choice over the BB. It's good to know a 107/110 will fit in fine.
Here's the crankset I was checking out: https://cgi.ebay.com/SUGINO-XD-TRACK-...QQcmdZViewItem
I am having an almost all black paint scheme so the black crank arms add to the effect.
As far as wheelsets, I was looking for something affordable but strong. That's why I was looking at IROs wheelset. Specifically the ones coming out in March that are black spoked/black rimmed. and it does come in 126mm! So, does that mean I should still alter the wheel? IRO's site is ambigious about the flip/flop setup. I read on Sheldon Brown's site that their wheels are fixed/fixed. Is this true?
Thanks, I'm not so worried now. If you guys have any suggestions about components, I'm all ears. And also if you guys are wondering what frame I am converting, it's a 79 Bertin (French, above avg for its time. Lugged and steel o'course.)
edit: Would the IRO build kit v.1 work on a road convert?
Here's the crankset I was checking out: https://cgi.ebay.com/SUGINO-XD-TRACK-...QQcmdZViewItem
I am having an almost all black paint scheme so the black crank arms add to the effect.
As far as wheelsets, I was looking for something affordable but strong. That's why I was looking at IROs wheelset. Specifically the ones coming out in March that are black spoked/black rimmed. and it does come in 126mm! So, does that mean I should still alter the wheel? IRO's site is ambigious about the flip/flop setup. I read on Sheldon Brown's site that their wheels are fixed/fixed. Is this true?
Thanks, I'm not so worried now. If you guys have any suggestions about components, I'm all ears. And also if you guys are wondering what frame I am converting, it's a 79 Bertin (French, above avg for its time. Lugged and steel o'course.)
edit: Would the IRO build kit v.1 work on a road convert?
02-23-06, 11:50 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,848
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
U have the cranks picked plus they say that a 107 bb will work.
usually flip flops have in one side double thread in one side (1 for the cog and one smaller for the lockring) and at the other side is for a single speed freewheel(u can put a fixed cog there aswell). I guess the hub is even in both sides so u have to true and dish right in the middle. And no, if the wheel is already 126 mms obvioulsly u dont have to do anything to it.
U wont have mayor problems... as much maybe the chainline will be off a little bit, If thats the case algays u can put an spacer in the cog and problem solved (2 dols max).
p: about the chain get a cheapo 10 bucks sram bmx chain. r good, nice and cheap.
usually flip flops have in one side double thread in one side (1 for the cog and one smaller for the lockring) and at the other side is for a single speed freewheel(u can put a fixed cog there aswell). I guess the hub is even in both sides so u have to true and dish right in the middle. And no, if the wheel is already 126 mms obvioulsly u dont have to do anything to it.
U wont have mayor problems... as much maybe the chainline will be off a little bit, If thats the case algays u can put an spacer in the cog and problem solved (2 dols max).
p: about the chain get a cheapo 10 bucks sram bmx chain. r good, nice and cheap.
