I missed two leters that are probably trademarked by ebay by now twice in that post.

Sorry.

All of you are making this way too hard. Use the previously mentioned chainstay/walking technique.

a) Put chain on both the cog and the chainring with the rear axle loose in the droputs.
b) Pull back on the non-drive side nut first and tighten the nut moderately. The wheel will be cockeyed in the frame and there will be no tension in the chain. That's OK.
c) Then use your hand to manually push the front of the rim so it's roughly straight in the frame. You'll notice that the chain suddenly has a lot of tension. Moderately tighten the drive side nut.
d) Re-loosen the non-drive side nut and fine tune the wheel position til it's perfect.

At your first try the chain tension may be too great, so loosen the drive side again and fiddle with it until it's tight enough that it's impossible to push the chain off the chainring while you slowly (and carefully) spin the cranks. This usually freaks people out a bit because with this tension you hear a lot of drivetrain noise which may sound like grinding a bit. It's supposed to be that way. Fixed does not = silent. The people that leave a lot of slack for a quieter ride are the ones that wind up eating bumpers when they drop a chain.
There should be no noticeable droop in the chain in it's final tensioning, but there should also be no binding when you spin the cranks.

i think i finally got it---thanks.

i still hear an intermittent clunk every so often--its not at any given area in the rotation---i hope this goes away when i oil it up tonight

where does one buy new track nuts though----i really did a number on one of them

my chain gets noisy at random spots if it's been rained on and I haven't gotten around to relubing. If you still have the noise try flexing the chain from side to side between your thumbs (like you're snapping a twig) to try to loosen up a stiff plate.
You LBS would be the fastest way to get new track nuts.

Says you. You can have a silent bike with a properly tensioned chain. But silent on the stand and silent in the street are two different things- your drivetrain can be quiet enough to be functionally silent on the street and tight at the same time.

If you cant get it by your self Bring the bike to In Compitition on University Av.
I wrench thear on ocasion but any body can help.
They dont stock much for fixie stuff but can order it for you.
Talk to Mark, Fred or Ben

+50

3 shots would be detrimental to my wrenching ability, but I guess I'm just a weenie...

You should look for a stiff link. Run your finger under the chain while trying to detect a spot that feels stiffer than the rest. Isolate the exact pin that seems tight, there could be several. Grasp the chain with both hands and pretend you are trying to break it, forcing the chain to bend back and forth in the direction it's not supposed to - you're slightly working in the pin, loosening it. Feel again, repeat as necessary.

If you DO break it, SORRY! 1) Not that hard next time and 2) It was a weak link anyway.

And you're a silly little man.

+1

and keep your fingers away from the cog or chainring while the drivetrain is moving! very important!

USE A 15mm WRENCH the right tool for the right job.

Why did this thread get resurrected?

the noise could be a stiff chain link. you better get this business dialed, you're gonna have to do it everytime you get a flat on the rear of your pista.

Didnt you ever hear "Any one can do it with the right tools it takes a mechanic to do it with the tools he has".

because cogs and chainrings, especially the cheaper ones, are not perfectly round.