str8flexed

So reading this forum, I found out that this stuff is actually to prevent rust, not to lubricate the chain. (not what Sheldon Brown says, but who knows).

So I think this may be why my chain is making that f'ing noise. It may be sticking to my cog during every rotation and then when it falls, it makes chain noise. Has anyone had this same problem before, with the factory chain grease stuff?

So either that, or the chain sucks. (Nashbar Recumbent chain........................don't ask)

I may just go get that $16 KMC chain at business cycles. Sigh.

MacG

yeah, you should really get some good lube on a new chain before you use it. My brand new chain got a lot quieter when I put some lube on it, and I had been pretty impressed at how decent-feeling the factory oil felt.

I'm pretty sure the oil on the chain from the factory is applied to the individual parts before assembky, and is not actually concentrated inside the rollers and bushings where you need it to be to have a quiet and healthy chain.

I lubed most recently with a bottle of something yellow I got for free at a swap meet. I can't remember the brand, but the bottle proudly proclaims that this is the only chain lube that actually works. It's some kind of solvent and silicon combination and smells a bit like honey fresh out of the bottle.

str8flexed

I will lube it. Sounds like I can't lose.

Should I clean the current chain off first? Maybe remove it and give it a thorough cleaning?

Or should I just put on some new lube (the easier, preferred way). I heard most bike shops just do this.

sers

i was under the impression that you should always degrease a new chain, and then lubricate it because the oil that's on it is designed to prevent corrosion and damage while it's sitting in the box.

if it's sticky, it's probably because the oil is saturated with dirt and sediment - i'd degrease it, rinse it with water, let it dry, and then lube it.

i've heard that the izumi eco track chains @ $20 are pretty worthwhile.

RedDeMartini

Every shop I know uses boeshield or pro-link for everything. Boeshield is expensive, a spraycan and does everything. Sort of the height of 1950's mindset technology. It was made by Boeing for their aircraft. The pro-link is a squeeze bottle, cheap great for everything and is light enough that by over lubing the chain and then wiping it off you have just cleaned it.

MacG

There's always a lot of controversay around cleaning chains in a solvent bath. I used to be a firm believer in the technique, but then I read that other people found they had a really hard time getting the chain to not sound gritty afterwards, and realized I had the same experiences.

The biggest problem with a solvent bath is that it removes the lube that was already packed into place in the moving parts of the chain, and replaces it with solvent. It is really difficult to get all of the solvent out, and any grit on the outside of the chain seems to get drawn into the moving surfaces by the solvent and is pretty much impossible to get out.

Here's my new standpoint: If it's a brand new chain that just came out of the packaging, it's probably a fine to clean it with solvent since there is no grit to get washed into the bushings. If it's a chain that's been in use for any amount of time, you are probably best off just cleaning the outer surfaces of the chain with a rag that maybe has a small amount of solvent or degreaser on it, but you should avoid getting solvent to wick down into the rollers. Suppliment whatever lube is left from before with more good lube and wipe the excess off of the outside of the chain and call it good. This way you just fill in any areas that were low on lube and don't disturb the existing lube, which might be partially hardened and holding grime away from the wear areas. Washing this old lube out with solvents would pretty much guarantee relocate at least some grit that wasn't a problem before into moving parts where it will accelerate wear.

Maybe the lube will eventually get old and cruddy and need to be flushed out chemically and replaced, but remember that a new chain only costs about $10 and chains elongate over time and will eventually need to be replaced.

12XU

I can't believe this thread is real. The factory goop is in no way a lube, as much as your lazy fixed conversion riding ass wants it to be. Pro-link that ***** and forget it!

freebird

Take your chain, put it in a tray fulla gasoline for about 10 minutes, agitate frequently. Hang until thouroughly dry. Install and treat with pro-link (what he ^^^^ likes) or Tri-Flow (what I like). Wipe dry. This works for new chains with that factory goop on them, and for crusty old chains. Your chain will last a long time. This doesn't work if you don't have a chain breaker, a pan, or some gasoline.

Fixed-Like-Dog

wrong, you hang it and flick a bic under it, no waste of time

str8flexed

crushkilldstroy

damn.

Fixed-Like-Dog

It is King Nimrod of the dancing water faeries!