Help setting up a fixed Cross-Check
03-15-06, 06:26 PM
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OK, I want to set up a fixed Surly cross check and I'd like to do it pretty cheap. I've been looking at IROs drivetrain accesories and I like what I see, but I'm new to the whole fixed thing and I want to make sure everything works out. My main concern right now is the q-factor, making sure that the cranks clear the chainstays.
I want to run the IRO rear hub and crankset they off at 165mm at a 42 mm chainline. They have a 107 and 110 mm spindled BB and I assume that this means that I could move the chainring from the outside at 107 to the inside with a 110 to get the same chainline and space out the q-factor a bit? Will this work or will I run into some q-factor troubles due to the width of the chainstays on the frame? Those who know better than I, help a brother out. Thanks.
I want to run the IRO rear hub and crankset they off at 165mm at a 42 mm chainline. They have a 107 and 110 mm spindled BB and I assume that this means that I could move the chainring from the outside at 107 to the inside with a 110 to get the same chainline and space out the q-factor a bit? Will this work or will I run into some q-factor troubles due to the width of the chainstays on the frame? Those who know better than I, help a brother out. Thanks.
03-15-06, 06:35 PM
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Just something to consider.
With the Cross-Check you can run the IRO hubs that are specific for MTB (135mm), with a ~52mm chainline.
With the Cross-Check you can run the IRO hubs that are specific for MTB (135mm), with a ~52mm chainline.
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This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
03-15-06, 06:39 PM
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you won't have any trouble as far as clearance.
i would still recommend using the 135mm "offroad" hubs, as dobber suggests. you'll have an easier time getting a good chainline that way.
edit: didn't realize you were getting the IRO cranks. the offroad hubs make for an easier chainline with road or mountain cranks without having to get a weird, super-short BB spindle.
i would still recommend using the 135mm "offroad" hubs, as dobber suggests. you'll have an easier time getting a good chainline that way.
edit: didn't realize you were getting the IRO cranks. the offroad hubs make for an easier chainline with road or mountain cranks without having to get a weird, super-short BB spindle.
03-15-06, 06:43 PM
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Thanks for the responses. That was my initial plan, to run it with 135 mm mountain hubs, but I emailed Sheldon Brown and he encouraged me to try for a more narrow q-factor. He said that was more desirable for a fixed gear.
03-15-06, 07:44 PM
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I have similar plans for building up a fixed/free Cross Check, but here's the sacreligious twist. I want the option to add and remove a geared wheel (8 or 9 speed) fairly easily. I'm planning on just doing a single ring up front (probably a 42 or thereabouts for better off roading clearance and 70-ish gear inches with a 16 tooth cog). Is there a setup that will give me a good fixed/free chainline and be workable for running gears when I decide to?
I figure a crank that will allow me to mount my chainring in the inside or outside is a good idea. I don't mind moving my chainring around, but bottom brackets are pretty much voodoo to me, so I would prefer not to have to mess with that. I figure this bike will spend 85% of its time as a fixed/singlespeed for commuting and light trail riding, so good chainline is the priority. Just wondering if any of you geniuses have any input on hub spacing, bb width, cranks, etc...
Oh, and sorry for tainting this thread with talk of gears
I figure a crank that will allow me to mount my chainring in the inside or outside is a good idea. I don't mind moving my chainring around, but bottom brackets are pretty much voodoo to me, so I would prefer not to have to mess with that. I figure this bike will spend 85% of its time as a fixed/singlespeed for commuting and light trail riding, so good chainline is the priority. Just wondering if any of you geniuses have any input on hub spacing, bb width, cranks, etc...
Oh, and sorry for tainting this thread with talk of gears
03-16-06, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by B10Cycle
Thanks for the responses. That was my initial plan, to run it with 135 mm mountain hubs, but I emailed Sheldon Brown and he encouraged me to try for a more narrow q-factor. He said that was more desirable for a fixed gear.
If you're really interested, I could grab some measurements.
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This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
03-20-06, 07:15 PM
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Dredging this back up, could I, go with me on this, get the 126 mm hub (maybe even 120 mm) indtead of the 130 and have the chainstays pinched down to fit it? Would this work to give me a little bit more space to avoid clearance issues with my heels on the chainstays?
03-21-06, 04:58 AM
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Word of advice with the Crosscheck. Remove the paint from the dropouts where you bolt on your hub. I did not do this, and when climbing a bithc of a hill in the swedish ss championships the wheel come loose when the paint let go from the frame. Result was a broken frame with 50mm extra dropout spacing...
