![]() |
Threaded headset spacers?
Being new to the horrid world of threaded headsets I have the following question.
Are there specific spacers for threaded headsets? (keyed ones?) or does one just use threadless ones. The reason I am asking is that my fork is just a tad too long but not too long enough to justify cutting it. I need about 5mm spacer. |
i don't see why you couldn't just use a threadless spacer.
though, keyed ones make adjustments a little bit easier since they won't rotate and transfer torque to from the locknut to the adjustable cup. but that's what 2 wrenches are for anyway. |
Would one of these help? I have one on my bike.
http://www.sjscycles.com/store/sugin...mnnutsmall.gif It's a Sugino High column nut. I did a search and found it here: http://www.sjscycles.com/store/vIndex.htm?cat588.htm I don't know if you're running 1", but I'm guessing you are. |
You may be better off cutting the steer to length. Here's why. There's always a bit of compressive loading as you ride on the headset. This pushes parts together and creates looseness elsewhere in the headset. It isn't a problem when stuff can't really rotate against each other, but when you have a big unkeyed spacer in there, you just increase the likelihood that your headset locknut will come loose or that your headset top cup will readjust slightly. Neither one is particularly good. Threaded headsets like to deteriorate really fast if they're not adjusted precisely right and you're stacking the deck against you. It's not a big deal cutting the 5 mm -- I prefer to use the Park steer trimming tool and a hacksaw, but any way you want to cut it that gives you a square end will work fine (if it isn't square, the locknut will put pressure at an angle on the top bearings and the headset will bind). Any shop should do it for a nominal fee or for free if they like you.
|
Originally Posted by 11.4
You may be better off cutting the steer to length. Here's why. There's always a bit of compressive loading as you ride on the headset. This pushes parts together and creates looseness elsewhere in the headset. It isn't a problem when stuff can't really rotate against each other, but when you have a big unkeyed spacer in there, you just increase the likelihood that your headset locknut will come loose or that your headset top cup will readjust slightly. Neither one is particularly good. Threaded headsets like to deteriorate really fast if they're not adjusted precisely right and you're stacking the deck against you. It's not a big deal cutting the 5 mm -- I prefer to use the Park steer trimming tool and a hacksaw, but any way you want to cut it that gives you a square end will work fine (if it isn't square, the locknut will put pressure at an angle on the top bearings and the headset will bind). Any shop should do it for a nominal fee or for free if they like you.
|
stack several thinner keyed washers
|
Originally Posted by baxtefer
stack several thinner keyed washers
:) |
Hmm, spare C-Record headset I have has a keyed spacer thick enough for 8 point script saying "Campagnolo brev." on the side. You might want to find something like it.
|
All solved. Found the perfect little washer. Using the keyed one that came with it in the bottom so it still serves its purpose and the new 5mm spacer (not keyed) goes on top and it all snugged up perfectly. Thanks for all the help.
|
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:22 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.