Self Imposed conundrum
 

After some generous help from Hyperevue, I think i diagnosed my drivetrain problem. apparantly i was an idiot and ordered a 1/8 cog for my new whelset on my 05 pista. It appears i am running a 1/8 cog with a 1/8 chain (that came with the bike) and a 3/32 chainring (that came with the bike).

{insert insulting remarks here]

now that we've established i'm a moron--whats the best way to fix this? Since i just got a new cog, i am temped to just get a new 1/8 chain and get a 1/8 chainring to replace the current 3/32 one, so as to have all matching components and a new drivetrain. My only concern is that i;ve heard 1/8 chainrings are tough to come by. The other option is obviously to purchase a new 3/32 cog and suck up the $20 i spent on the 1/8 one.

Which route is preferable and why

Leave it as-is while you wait/beg for a good deal on a 1/8th chainring.

What BCD do you need?

Spécialités TA and Stronglight have them in 130
Miche has them in 135
DA/Sugino/Campy/FSA in 144

there's nothing really wrong with running a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" ring.
leave it as it is.

nothing wrong with that setup

the only "problem" you are going to have is a little noise... just keep running it, wait until you happen to run across a good deal on a 1/8" chainring you would want, but don't rush for it.

as long as the chain is nicely lubed and the tension is ok you should be fine, i am running the same setup and it is silent.

Business Cycles -
For 130 mm. bolt circle pattern cranks:

Spécialités TA
Alize Piste 1/8"
40, 42, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52 - $49.50

Stronglight
Track 1/8"
48 - $47.50

That said, it assumes you have the stock crank / 130BCD. I happen to have 1/8 on the Campy hubs on my Pista with RD's out front @ 3/32. Even though I am running the recommended 103mm BB, the crank is slightly inboard and I have noise from that. Over time I may try complete 1/8 vs 3/32 to see what is most quiet.

Unless the 3/32" chainring is ramped/pinned, you aren't going to have any mechanical issues other than noise. Also, if you're an internet hawk, 1/8" chainrings are available at any well-stocked website. Personally, I would go to my LBS and have them order something. If they have an EAI account, they should have the option of pretty much any track chainring ever created.

You'll be fine. I have a 1/8th on 3/32 set up cause that was the chain I could get at LBS when my chain exploided a few weeks back.

I took it to an lbs to have the rear wheel installed to make sure the chain tension was good---i get a ton of clickety clack noise and and oaccassional "pop" at one point in the rotation---i'm at a loss here

i used a somewhat new cog with an old chain, and when i put a new crankset/chainring on, the chain would not seat properly. clickety clackety, with the occasional pop.

measuring with the park tool didn't show the need for a new chain, but when i put a new chain on, there was no clickity clackety, and no pop.

'Nother option: Salsa makes some inexpensive 1/8" chainrings.

+ 1 for everyone who said it's not a big deal. But, if you really want to fix it, and if money and availability are issues, it's probably easier to replace the cog with a 3/32 one. There are plenty out there in a variety of sizes, and none should run more than about $20. Add $12 for a run-of-the-mill road chain, and you are ready to rock. I've been running a 3/32 drivetrain on my bike for years without incident, and it makes it easier for me to cannibalize chainrings from abandoned ten-speeds.

Assuming chainline is good, have you checked your chainring bolts?

This is by far the most frustrating lbs experience i have had. I took my bike back to the lbs that installed the cog and locking over my lunch hour, told them about the problem, and said i wanted to order a new chain and chainring---the guy looks at the bike tells me my chain is too tight--pinching in places while slack in other and that my chainline is messed up. I asked him well what do i need to do to fix it. He tells me he needs to see the old wheelset to compare--i look at him quisically. He then lookes at my hub--its a fixed/free, and asks if the drivetrain side looks the same as the other side--i said "no, its a fixed/free" He says, "what do you mean." I say "its got two sets of threads" HE says "why is that" I said "because the lockring is reverse threaded" He said "why is it reverse threaded" I say--"so things dont spin off when you apply back pressure." He says "well why are you applying back pressure?"

He then proceeds to tell me that i need to "play around with it" and should juts put the old wheelset back on--i said i dont want the old wheelset. I said i dont have many bike tools and thats why i brought it here and am willing to pay to have you fix it. I then inquire as to whether a new chain or chainring would help. He says "well its hard to say--they dont make track stuff anymore"---He then asked why i am riding a track bike.

I told him i had to go back to work--what a waste of a lunch hour

[edit] oops double post

somebody shoot me now!

Venting about yer LBS will get you into trouble around here. Shame on your elitist all-knowing ass.


lol

actually, i went to the lbs because i DONT know what i am doing--but what little i know is apparently more that what this guy knew

Simply eyeball your chainline to see if it's off. If it's off by a millimeter or two, no biggie...
If your chain has a 1/4" or so total slack, you're ok. Use your finger and pull up on the chain at mid length and see for yourself.

nice echo

Should I eyeball your chainline to see if it's off?

that must be a record!

I swear, I only clicked 3 times....

skanking biker, Here ya go...

http://69.16.211.161/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=2350376