sweetbike

I have a njs track frame a reminton. Looking to buy dura ace 7600 high flange hubs on ebay right now, but im unsure what size i should get cuz im away from my frame right now and times a tickin... the hubs im lookin on ebay are 120mm front and rear. But, i know for sure rear on my frame is 120mm.. unsure if its a 120 or a 110 in the front.... Hmm, if anyone has this frame can ya help a brotha out, it would be appreciated.

Pawls

I canīt really help you but older keirin frames usually is spaced at 110mm and new ones 120 (123mm actually, to have room for tensioners).

sweetbike

what my frame exactly is, except pink

TNCLR

You should check out this thing called a "tape meausre". It allows you to measure things. It's pretty awesome. I think they're like $3 at the hardware store.

sloppy robot

rulers are amazing inventions!

edit: drats.. beat to the punchline..

fieldrecordings

I believe front spacing is usually 100mm, not 120mm. Like Pawls said, rear is 110mm or 120mm.
Best way to know is to measure.

edit: also beaten to the punch

sweetbike

eh. it would be great if the bike was at hand to measure... but its not.

teadoggg

it's not 120 front. 7600 DAs are all 100mm front spacing, as are 99.9% of front road/track forks. As far as I know, other than kids bikes, the only forks spaced less than 100mm are BMX hubs which are 96mm.

Buy 'em! They'll fit and you'll love them. Great hubs.

Pawls

aah, front.. yeah 100mm for sure

sweetbike

thanks teadog for your help! that all i needed to know.

evanyc

haha nice. that's my ride. rear is 120 and front is 100

sweetbike

sweet. i c that you said your getting some dura ace 7600s too. got em yet? if so, post pics up!

Aeroplane

Not to be pedantic, but some old french hubs and possibly even schwinns have narrower front hubs also. But his front hub is 99.99% likely to be a 100mm.

Tomity

This is NJS Keirin frame fomula(Made in Japan)

Front fork width 100mm > dropout slot 8mm(100x110 frame) elliptic shaft
Front fork width 100mm > dropout slot 9mm(100x120 frame) circlular shaft

Rear fork width 113mm > dropout slot 8mm(100x110 frame) elliptic shaft
Rear fork width 123mm > dropout slot 10mm(100x120 frame) circlular shaft
+3mm = chain tugs thickness

11.4

Concurring with Tomity ....

There are two front hub alternatives. Both are spaced 100 mm, but one has a round 9 mm axle (this is the one you usually see), and the other has the same axle with two flats in it, reducing the narrower dimension to 8 mm (and this one most often comes with 110 mm rear hubs). All the other axle hardware (cones, locknuts, etc.) are the same, and the axle threading is the same. The 8 mm version doesn't like to bolt down squarely in 9 mm stay-ends (it tends to skew to one side and put your wheel off center) but in 8 mm stay-ends the flats keep the axle from rotating while you tighten it, which is a nice feature.

On the rear, there are various historic dimensions (and some current exotic ones) ranging from 90 mm up to 120 mm. You also get variations on 110 and 120 that add 3 mm to accommodate a chain tug on each side inside the stay ends, in effect making them 113 and 123. It's a little more secure than having the tug on the outside, and the MKS tugs in particular (nicest out there, if that matters) are designed with that in mind. If you buy old vintage hubs (as in, 1950's, etc.) you run a risk of getting a really odd width or even an odd axle diameter -- and that applies to both front and rear. Some contributors on this forum prefer to file the axles, but the Japanese method is to convert to 120 with 10 mm axles. Life is too short to have to search for rarer axle sizes, front or rear.

We've had various threads on this in the recent past. My personal preference is to spread a frame to 120 or 123 mm in the rear and to file fork and stay ends if needed to get them to 9 mm in the front, 10 mm in the rear. You can do it in 20 minutes and have a completely professional result -- Japanese framebuilders convert frames this way all the time.

teadoggg

11.4, can I be your apprentice? Jesus, you seem to know everything. Thanks for posting so frequently with such good information.

Bikeforums must pay you to post here and keep this place alive.