Excitement ptIII
 

Just some more pics of my Don Walker custom framebuild. It's now finished, needing only clean-up work and obviously paint.

Sorry if this bores some of you. I'm excited, so **** y'all:D
Also i figure that some of the folks on here will enjoy seeing a bike being born.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...april20005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...april20006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...april20007.jpg

http://www.donwalkercycles.com

neat. What color is it gonna be?

hey its got seatstays now....looks nice

radial rear?

metallic silver is the plan

what are the dimensions, and how tall are you? The bike looks petite. In a mean, Mad Max sort of way.

clear coat is now and keep the mad max look alive.

edit: and congrats on the new baby.

yay eddie!

it's 52/52.75. i'm 5-9

Just curious, is that frame designed for the track, and by what process did you come up with those numbers?

yes, and by my measurements and what was not right with my current (stock) bike

Thanks, hope to see the completed bike soon.

sweet. congrats, eddie.

you gonna pass cigars around?

Looks like non drive side is radial and drive side is some sort of cross. Can you back that up eddie?

I would be willing to bet that those are not the wheels he will be using....I just don't think that eddie( or anyone for that matter) would put mismatched wheels on a custom bike....

What's wrong with mismatched wheels? I think they look better, as in supercustom.

I LOVE in-progress pictures of frame builds (or anything, for that matter), so bring it on!

Oh, and nice frame :D.

classy. what color are you doing? i'd almost want to just ride it as-is.

correct. i was also planning on installing a headset and a few other components ;)

they were some wheels don had lying around the shop.

non-drive-side radial is fairly common among the weight weiner roadie set. i've definitely see it a few times.

mine will be 3x front and back.

That seatstay bridge and seat cluster are GORGEOUS. Nice work, DW, and you are one lucky bastard eddie.

yeah i'm loving that bridge bigtime :)

and don, you mean the radial non-drive rear was used on the track too? i had no idea—thought it was a road thing only. didn't think it would be man enough for the heavier mashing of a fixed gear bicycle

here's an article i found about half radial rear wheels. strangely it says it should be radial on the drive side.

http://www.geocities.com/spokeanwheel/lacingsr.htm#hr

The half radial rear wheel mixed lacing pattern has become fairly popular over the last few years with pre-built bicycle wheel manufacturers. If done properly this lacing can offer increased drive side lateral strength, when compared to a standard, fully crossed, rear wheel pattern. Ironically most of the manufactured rear wheels with this mixed lacing are done backwards, the non drive side is radially laced. The biggest problem with multi-speed rear wheels is the imbalance of the lateral strength's, this causes the majority, if not all, of the problems that plague these wheels. It is beyond my comprehension why someone would do a special lacing that does not work to correct this problem.

A radial lacing has the highest lateral strength of any lacing pattern. This is covered in the RADIAL LACING INFORMATION chapter. A multi-speed rear wheel that is half radially laced, with the non drive side being the side with the radial lacing, can only have increased imbalance in the lateral strengths of the two sides of the wheel. The radial spokes on the non drive side will also need a lower build tension when compared to a standard wheel. Since radial lacing has the highest lateral strength, the spokes do not need to be as tight to counter the lateral forces from the drive side in order to achieve a true wheel. Also, with the non drive side spokes even looser than normal, the likelihood that the wheel will go out of true from road shock is increased.

A properly built half radial rear wheel will be radially laced on the drive side. It would also be best to lace the drive side so the spoke heads are on the inside of the flange.

When you lace a wheel half radial you can use almost any crossing pattern on the non drive side. The only crossing that would probably not be a good idea to use for most rear wheels would be 1-cross. The 1-cross lacing has the poorest drive torque transfer strength of any crossed lacing, and depending on the situation, a half radial wheel built with this crossing pattern could suffer from the same problems as a full radially laced rear wheel, it could absorb drive power and overstresses the spokes. This would be true for typical 28, 32 and 36, or more, spoke wheels. If you are building a low spoke count wheel, 24 spokes or less, a 1-cross lacing could be OK to use on the non drive side, it would depend on the wheel and the intended use.

Either a 2-cross or 3-cross lacing for the non drive side of a typical wheel laced half radial would be fine. The 3-cross might give slightly more balanced lateral strength. If you are building a 36 spoke (or more) rear wheel half radial a 4-cross lacing could work. 4-cross lacing on most 32 and some 36 spoke wheels can have problems, though, of how the spokes will rest on the head of the first spoke it crosses. If the spokes rest on another's head this could create high stresses on the spokes that can shorten their life. It depends on the diameter of the hub flange and the rim that is being used.

Whatever lacing you use for the non drive side, this side becomes the side that transfers all of the drive torque from the hub to the rim. Since the number of spokes responsible for transferring the drive torque is one fourth the number of spokes in the wheel, the 'pull' spokes do undergo increased drive torque stresses. The stresses placed on these spokes when transferring power does momentarily stretch them slightly. As one would expect, these stresses cycle from a maximum when the pedals are near horizontal, to a minimum when the pedals are vertical. The stress reactions on the 'pull' spokes cause the radial spokes momentary increases in tension. But these stresses are very small, unlike a fully radially laced rear wheel, and do not cause any immediate problems.

One should realize, however, that since only 1/4 of the spokes of a half radial rear wheel transfer the driving torque, they see twice the drive torque stresses as compared to the 'pull' spokes of a standard wheel. The stresses on the radial spokes can also be larger than normal due to the physics of how the hub and rim move (slightly) in relation to each other which causes a large leverage action on these spokes. This all adds up to a wheel that will probably not have a useful life as long as this same wheel would have if it was conventionally laced. It is my opinion that this lacing is also the least favorable mixed lacing to use for increased lateral strength balance of a multi-speed rear wheel. On the other hand, it definitely will have better lateral strength than if the wheel was laced conventionally. These are things to think about when trying to decide which lacing pattern to use for your wheel.

What color top tube pad are you gonna run on it? :p

I love the detail around the seatstay bridge. That thing is going to be beautiful and metallic silver is such a classy color. Although I feel obligated to put in one more vote for clearcoating to preserve the mad max look.

dude the craziest thing is the other day i was actually contemplating deep vs for a brief but alarming second. i can't remember whose bike i saw in the pics thread that was silver with silver non-machined deep vs. it was something gorgeous and njs, and i nearly considered the same look for mine.

good god.

there's a brannan street in san francisco isn't there? named for america's first millionaire i believe

:lol:

looks great all fluxed up the way it is. the detail work should look sick when done. nice, don.

as for wheels, i have a set where the rear is a 32 spoke hybrid crow's foot and it feels significantly tighter than all of my 3x wheels. i want to try a radial non-drive / 3x drive one of these days.