This is how much chain slack is too much chain slack
#26
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Originally Posted by scoundrl
It is especially important to keep little or no chain slack when your shoes are your only brakes.
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#27
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Although the slack on that chain is ridiculous, I would say the bent chainring
would throw your chain even when you have decent enough tension.
After that happened to me a few times in traffic,
it was bye-bye Super Mighty chainring.
would throw your chain even when you have decent enough tension.
After that happened to me a few times in traffic,
it was bye-bye Super Mighty chainring.
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Originally Posted by mplsminx
thank you for the ever-so-helpful and perfectly-timed advice. i'll keep that in mind.
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Originally Posted by scoundrl
I'm pretty wonderful.
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am I the only person on here who likes his chain tension skin tight?
PS and I thought I rode a piece of ****e... this bike hurts to look at.
PS and I thought I rode a piece of ****e... this bike hurts to look at.
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Originally Posted by matt_savvy
am I the only person on here who likes his chain tension skin tight?
PS and I thought I rode a piece of ****e... this bike hurts to look at.
PS and I thought I rode a piece of ****e... this bike hurts to look at.
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Originally Posted by mplsminx
advice which i ignored last night, instead opting to ride with droop: "i'm only going a few blocks, i'll tighten it once i get there." two blocks from my house i threw my chain going over a tiny bump and fredflintstoned to a stop. classy.
I once tried ice fishing in MlpS once. I've never been back.
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Originally Posted by matt_savvy
PS and I thought I rode a piece of ****e... this bike hurts to look at.
This bike rules way more than any Colnago with gold components that you have to carry into Urban Outfitters with you so it doesn't get breathed on
Dirt = real life
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with minimal bike tools, what's the best way to fix the slack in a chain. this is what mine looks like (obviously droopy):
every few pedals when I'm going up a hill i can hear it make a slight noise (at least i think that's what it is). Otherwise my bike is fairly silent. I want to get this fixed up.
every few pedals when I'm going up a hill i can hear it make a slight noise (at least i think that's what it is). Otherwise my bike is fairly silent. I want to get this fixed up.
#36
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undo the nuts and pull the wheel back. you need a wrench. 15mm but adjustable will do. see this: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension
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oh man, that's terrible. I'll try this again.
How to tighten the hell outta your chain, ATN style
(Taught me me first by olympic track racers in Korea, then retaught by a NYC mess.)
Tools needed are one appropriately sized wrench for your axle nuts (usually 15mm)
-Loosen both nuts
-Pull back on the wheel so that the non-drive side axle nut is as far back as it will go.
-tighten the non-drive side nut.
-The wheel will now be cockeyed to the left in your frame and the chain loose. That's good.
-At the seattube, manually push the rim into it's ideal position. As you do this, the chain will tighten up as the axle moves rearward in the dropout.
-Hold the rim in alignment, then tighten the drive side axle nut.
-Now the chain will be very tight, and the wheel will be roughly aligned in the dropouts.
-You can now loosen the non-drive side nut without fear of losing chain tension, in order to fine tune the alignment of the wheel.
-Optional: Put on earmuffs/eyepod to drown out annoying internet claims that your chain is too tight.
How to tighten the hell outta your chain, ATN style
(Taught me me first by olympic track racers in Korea, then retaught by a NYC mess.)
Tools needed are one appropriately sized wrench for your axle nuts (usually 15mm)
-Loosen both nuts
-Pull back on the wheel so that the non-drive side axle nut is as far back as it will go.
-tighten the non-drive side nut.
-The wheel will now be cockeyed to the left in your frame and the chain loose. That's good.
-At the seattube, manually push the rim into it's ideal position. As you do this, the chain will tighten up as the axle moves rearward in the dropout.
-Hold the rim in alignment, then tighten the drive side axle nut.
-Now the chain will be very tight, and the wheel will be roughly aligned in the dropouts.
-You can now loosen the non-drive side nut without fear of losing chain tension, in order to fine tune the alignment of the wheel.
-Optional: Put on earmuffs/eyepod to drown out annoying internet claims that your chain is too tight.
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Make sure you're pushing the rim right behind the seat tube, along the same plane the axle follows in the dropouts. Also make sure you are getting your drive side and non drive side orienteations right (just have to check)
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I guess I'm having trouble lining up the rim and keeping it in place while I tighten the drive-side nut. After I tighten the drive side nut the chain is tight but the rim is still off center. When i loosen the non-drive nut i can center it better, but the chain loosens.
here's what's happening step by step:
- I loosen both nuts and pull back so that the non-drive nut is as back as far as it can go (the rim/tire push against the side of the frame, so it can't go all the way back.)
- Next I push the rim back so that the wheel is centered. Now the chain is really tight (how i'd like it to be).
- I hold it in place and tighten up the drive side nut (the wheel is still cockeyed, but the chain is tight)
- I loosen the non-drive nut and center the wheel, and then tighten it.
- The chain is back to it's old tension.
here's what's happening step by step:
- I loosen both nuts and pull back so that the non-drive nut is as back as far as it can go (the rim/tire push against the side of the frame, so it can't go all the way back.)
- Next I push the rim back so that the wheel is centered. Now the chain is really tight (how i'd like it to be).
- I hold it in place and tighten up the drive side nut (the wheel is still cockeyed, but the chain is tight)
- I loosen the non-drive nut and center the wheel, and then tighten it.
- The chain is back to it's old tension.
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Here's how it should read:
"here's what's happening step by step:
- I loosen both nuts and pull back so that the non-drive nut is as back as far as it can go (the rim/tire push against the side of the frame, so it can't go all the way back.)
-NEXT I TIGHTEN THE NON-DIRVE SIDE NUT
- then I push the rim back so that the wheel is centered. Now the chain is really tight (how i'd like it to be).
- I hold it in place and tighten up the drive side nut (the wheel is still cockeyed, but the chain is tight)
- I loosen the non-drive nut and center the wheel, and then tighten it.
- The chain is tight as a guitar string and all is at peace in the world
"
As for holding the rim in place while messing with the drive side nut, try kneeling on the left side of the wheel. With the non-dirve nut tight and the drive side nut loose, push the wheel in alignment with your left thumb while wrapping your fingers around the seat tube. When it's centered, reach over the wheel with your right hand to get a hold of the wrench to tighten down the drive side nut.
"here's what's happening step by step:
- I loosen both nuts and pull back so that the non-drive nut is as back as far as it can go (the rim/tire push against the side of the frame, so it can't go all the way back.)
-NEXT I TIGHTEN THE NON-DIRVE SIDE NUT
- then I push the rim back so that the wheel is centered. Now the chain is really tight (how i'd like it to be).
- I hold it in place and tighten up the drive side nut (the wheel is still cockeyed, but the chain is tight)
- I loosen the non-drive nut and center the wheel, and then tighten it.
- The chain is tight as a guitar string and all is at peace in the world
"
As for holding the rim in place while messing with the drive side nut, try kneeling on the left side of the wheel. With the non-dirve nut tight and the drive side nut loose, push the wheel in alignment with your left thumb while wrapping your fingers around the seat tube. When it's centered, reach over the wheel with your right hand to get a hold of the wrench to tighten down the drive side nut.
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ahh i left that bolded part out! i still do it! haha. i'm going to give it a few more shots after dinner. ill let you know how it goes. thanks for helping out so far though.
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something else you might want to try: summerinside taught me a neato trick the other day. jam a rolled-up sock between the seat tube and the rear wheel. he called it "the third hand".
i like it! it works.
i like it! it works.
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next time, after step two, try pushing the rim way over to the right, past alignment, then tighten the drive side nut. The wheel will be outta whack to the right, but the chain will be tight. Then you can just undo the non-drive side to adjust the tension.
Either that or it's your chain. Red chains don't hold tension very well.
Either that or it's your chain. Red chains don't hold tension very well.
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Originally Posted by mplsminx
something else you might want to try: summerinside taught me a neato trick the other day. jam a rolled-up sock between the seat tube and the rear wheel. he called it "the third hand".
i like it! it works.
i like it! it works.
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Originally Posted by AfterThisNap
Umm, did summerinside tell you why they called the "rolled up sock trick" the "third hand"?
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well i definitely fixed it some, it still looks more slack than most peoples bikes on this forum. would a chain tensioner help? it may also be my eyes playing tricks on my with the chainrings.
#50
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Just looking at that bike, makes me feel very good about my beater.
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Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
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Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.