IRO dropout width + mks tensioners = ?!!?
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IRO dropout width + mks tensioners = ?!!?
I got some MKS chaintugs for my Angus frame-- which is steel-- only to find that they don't fit so well. Maybe I should have gotten the 7mm ones "designed for aluminum frames"?
Damn, I had no idea.
Anyone else have this problem?
Damn, I had no idea.
Anyone else have this problem?
#2
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I had the same problem on my bareknuckle man! The al. ones fixed that problem.
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and BAM! it's a tight squeeze but the skinny MKS work on the Angus. Huzzah!
The orange Angus is rolling and it's awesome.
The orange Angus is rolling and it's awesome.
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Had the same problem with my surly and i just flipped the main part of the tensioner so the flat outside part was flush against the ends. worked well while i was running it.
-austin
-austin
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Originally Posted by TIMES UP!
Had the same problem with my surly and i just flipped the main part of the tensioner so the flat outside part was flush against the ends. worked well while i was running it.
-austin
-austin
That's a cool solution. Didn't think of that while I was having the problem.
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Originally Posted by TIMES UP!
Had the same problem with my surly and i just flipped the main part of the tensioner so the flat outside part was flush against the ends. worked well while i was running it.
-austin
-austin
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#11
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I think he means this:
You unscrew the tensioner such that it comes apart. Thread the "eared" piece--- which normally fits over the end of the dropouts-- backwards such that the ears up back and the more-or-less flat reverse side is flush with the frame. It'd be functionally similar, although it'd lose a small amount of length.
You unscrew the tensioner such that it comes apart. Thread the "eared" piece--- which normally fits over the end of the dropouts-- backwards such that the ears up back and the more-or-less flat reverse side is flush with the frame. It'd be functionally similar, although it'd lose a small amount of length.