There are plenty of good single bolt seat posts.

word

It will eat your soul, and leave you an empty shell of a man.







Other than that though, the Langster is fine.

1 U.S. dollar = 1.10149991 Canadian dollars

Therefore, a $600 USD Mark V is $660.89 Canadian (or $60.89 C more than the Langster).

I will point out that if you can find a fuji dealer, i think they are $500 USD or $550.79 USD.

Also, Spicer Cycles has frame&forks for $200 USD (220 Canadian) which you can build up from.

I have never had a problem with my cheap, single bolt posts.
Weird.

Some cheap single bolt posts slip and creak, some are all fine and dandy. I find the Langster post slips and on me after a few rides and creaks all the time. I have a cheapo Kalloy single bolt on another bike that's stayed put for years. I also have a single bolt post on my road bike that stays put. With all the single bolt posts I've had, I'd say half slipped and that the Langster's post is the worst. I think on the Langster a carbon post would be good because it'd smooth out the ride a little. I've been pretty anti-carbon on most parts of the bike, but after a few long rides I'm reconsidering one on my Langster.

Nah, the paint/powdercoat/whatever on the surfaces of the serrated teeth was extra thick when I first installed the post -- the teeth looked rounded rather than crisp, which leads to obvious slippage.

Considering there are so many good posts available in the aftermarket for 20-30 bucks, swapping it out isn't a huge deal. Just haven't done it yet, so I'm annoyed :)

It was anice set up for 400 but it is just a rough ride, they are fine but you will probably get a better bike by shopping around used stuff and finding something else. By better I mean something you will like more and thus ride more. The AL straight for is just too much... Other than that go for it. But used is not a bad way to go. (keep the front brake for the time being) any time you are cutting corners you risk getting a drive train (specifically hub, cog, chain) that may not be able to handle the rigors of fixed riding (all road parts are not designed for this, most track parts aren't either).
brakes are always a good idea.

The langster looks good with wide slight rise bars and oury blue grips. Rides better too.

regarding the seatposts...are y'all greasing the threads?
You can't get it tight enough to stay without grease.

I see it a lot on shortcut builds and it causes noise and loosening.

There sure are a lot of complainers on this site. I've had mine for two years now and despite its bad reputation because it's an off the shelf rig made by a large company, I have to say that I quite like it. [I also have a custom Rock Lobster, for the track and when I want to ride something with a bit more bling.]

I ride mine a lot and have not had a single problem with the components. I have replaced the bars (with bullhorns), put ultegra breaks and aero levers on, different seatpost and saddle, and am running time pedals. No carbon fork...yet. The wheels have held up perfectly for me, and I am not that light. I do, however, know how to true wheels properly. I think the biggest disaster to wheels is when someone who doesn't really understand wheels, starts to work on them, and messes up the tension - then they are bound to only get worse and worse.

I find the geometry quite comfortable - it rides like a road frame rather than a track frame, but I primarily use it for the road so that is perfect. I use it for training rides and for commuting. I have ridden it on the track, and have had no problems there, although the geometry is a bit slack. It's more about the rider than the bike, on the track. It is stiff, but I don't find it all that bad - at least not as bad as folks here seem to think.

IMHO - can't go wrong with it, but there may be better options out there depending on your preferences.

Yep. All metal-to-metal interfaces, especially threaded ones, receive grease. It's just a POS seatpost :)

Man the dollar sucks. START SAVING AMERICA! Let the forces of the market devalue our currency!