Frame Questions
#1
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Frame Questions
I want to build a bike so I'm going to go frame hunting tomorrow. I live in Minneapolis so I figure there should be a good bike frame somewhere I can pick up for a steal. I'm going to visit One on One bicycles first and then maybe The Hub or Cars R Coffins, but I don't know what to look for cause I'm a noob. I don't want to spend more than $100 or maybe $200 if it's really worth it.
I know there are different kind of materials such as chro-mo, reynolds, etc... and they have numbers after them, but they don't mean much to me. As far as I know, the old Miyata frame I can buy for $20 and an IRO for $200 something and a Soma Rush for $450 and they're all fricking Cro-mo and they all look the same except color. Now how can they be so different? I don't want to put nice parts on a crap frame cause I'm guessing that's like putting $5000 speakers on a crappy radio for a source...
So anyway enough of a rant about my confusion. I've been reading around online but I just can't figure it out and I want to get the right bike. Any tips at all would rock. Mostly I want to know what to look for in a frame, how much it should cost, and how good I should try for. But also if there's a place in Minneapolis I should check out I'd love to hear about it.
Thanks a lot,
Kyle
I know there are different kind of materials such as chro-mo, reynolds, etc... and they have numbers after them, but they don't mean much to me. As far as I know, the old Miyata frame I can buy for $20 and an IRO for $200 something and a Soma Rush for $450 and they're all fricking Cro-mo and they all look the same except color. Now how can they be so different? I don't want to put nice parts on a crap frame cause I'm guessing that's like putting $5000 speakers on a crappy radio for a source...
So anyway enough of a rant about my confusion. I've been reading around online but I just can't figure it out and I want to get the right bike. Any tips at all would rock. Mostly I want to know what to look for in a frame, how much it should cost, and how good I should try for. But also if there's a place in Minneapolis I should check out I'd love to hear about it.
Thanks a lot,
Kyle
#2
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For what you want to spend, you can't be picky. Get a frame that fits and will work for a conversion. It will probably be in the form of a bike that someone doesn't want anymore which means that it might even have quite a few serviceable parts still hanging off of it.
If all you get is a frame, and you don't already have a bank of parts (i.e. you are not a roadie who likes to regularly upgrade his components and has a lot of working stuff laying around in the garage) then you will spend far more building a bike than you would if you took your credit card to the nearest LBS and came out with a new singlespeed/fixed gear complete bike.
If all you get is a frame, and you don't already have a bank of parts (i.e. you are not a roadie who likes to regularly upgrade his components and has a lot of working stuff laying around in the garage) then you will spend far more building a bike than you would if you took your credit card to the nearest LBS and came out with a new singlespeed/fixed gear complete bike.
#3
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I misrepresented the situation. I want to spend $100-200 on the FRAME. I'll put some cool stuff on for the rest of it.
#4
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If you're shopping conversions, just look for quality construction, something that will take standard parts, and a still-decent paint job (unless you plan on refinishing it). Stay away from french bikes if you want an easy time at it (peugeots, early motobecanes, etc.) and even italian bikes if you really want to get the thing put together easily. Raleighs, Schwinns, and Japanese bikes especially will be easy to convert. Just make sure it has standard-sized headset and forged dropouts:
And not stamped dropouts:
As far as tubing is concerned, Reynolds 531 is pretty standard and will probably be findable. Just about any steel frame that isn't heavy as hell and isn't rusted will probably treat you well, though.
And not stamped dropouts:
As far as tubing is concerned, Reynolds 531 is pretty standard and will probably be findable. Just about any steel frame that isn't heavy as hell and isn't rusted will probably treat you well, though.
#5
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As far as bang for buck goes you might be best getting a nice 70s or 80s vintage road frame. Reynolds 531 was the most commonly used flavor of good chromoly at the time, and it was very good stuff, but Tange, Ishiwata, and Columbus all made good tubesets too. I'm probably forgetting somebody.
For $200 I would want to find something really nice with full double butted frame and forks. For $100 a nice 531 main triangle would be nice.
For $200 I would want to find something really nice with full double butted frame and forks. For $100 a nice 531 main triangle would be nice.
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I'd certainly try and find a complete bike, even if you do toss half of the components. Unless you have tons of parts laying around, it'll cost you more to build one up from scratch than walking down to the store and buying a Pista.
Like someone said before 80s road bikes are great candidates--if they have the right features. Most importantly horizontal dropouts. Second most important IMO is 700c rims.
I picked up a 84 Trek 460 about a year ago for $100 on Craigslist. I spent about $60 on it and turned it into a sweet singlespeed. I bought a BMX freewheel ($16), time trial bars ($12, chucksbikes.com), reverse brake levers ($15), cable housing. Removed the large chainring, moved the small to the outside.
I was able to use spacers on the drivetrain to get the chainline perfect. No need to redish.
Going fixed gear is going to cost you at least an extra $100 due to the hub. I had no desire; SS works for me.
I've seen people spend lots of money on a FG only to have a POS looking bike. And then they try and sell it on Craigslist for what they spent on parts and it makes me laugh. They should have just bought a Pista! Make sure you start out with a nice bike/frame and the rest should fall into place.
Like someone said before 80s road bikes are great candidates--if they have the right features. Most importantly horizontal dropouts. Second most important IMO is 700c rims.
I picked up a 84 Trek 460 about a year ago for $100 on Craigslist. I spent about $60 on it and turned it into a sweet singlespeed. I bought a BMX freewheel ($16), time trial bars ($12, chucksbikes.com), reverse brake levers ($15), cable housing. Removed the large chainring, moved the small to the outside.
I was able to use spacers on the drivetrain to get the chainline perfect. No need to redish.
Going fixed gear is going to cost you at least an extra $100 due to the hub. I had no desire; SS works for me.
I've seen people spend lots of money on a FG only to have a POS looking bike. And then they try and sell it on Craigslist for what they spent on parts and it makes me laugh. They should have just bought a Pista! Make sure you start out with a nice bike/frame and the rest should fall into place.
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Originally Posted by mattface
As far as bang for buck goes you might be best getting a nice 70s or 80s vintage road frame. Reynolds 531 was the most commonly used flavor of good chromoly at the time, and it was very good stuff, but Tange, Ishiwata, and Columbus all made good tubesets too. I'm probably forgetting somebody.
For $200 I would want to find something really nice with full double butted frame and forks. For $100 a nice 531 main triangle would be nice.
For $200 I would want to find something really nice with full double butted frame and forks. For $100 a nice 531 main triangle would be nice.
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After all my research I think a Miyata 1400 would be a good frame for city riding with good quality and good price. Any thoughts or other suggestions on good bikes for city riding?
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Originally Posted by kyledr
After all my research I think a Miyata 1400 would be a good frame for city riding with good quality and good price. Any thoughts or other suggestions on good bikes for city riding?
#11
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Yes, sorry, but it is too big. I originally said I might go as high as 56, but now that I look at it isn't that a bit big for someone 5'7"? Formulas put me at 50 cm, and usually I fit well on 52/53.
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56 is more than likely too big if you're 5' 7". Miyata's make good conversions. Go for it.
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it really doesn;t matter so much with old bikes as long as you can still get the saddle low enough to reach the pedals properly.
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When are you going to be standing over the frame flat footed? Most likely you'll have you foot on one pedal thats towards the top of its rotaion and the ball of the other foot on the ground. If not you'll have the bike tipped over slightly while you reposition the pedal anyway. So yeah like 10cm of difference may give you a problem but not four or five.
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I hate to belabour the point, but I've fallen off the saddle mountin biking and thank god I was taller than the standover height, cause both my feet hit the ground and I was moving pretty good down a mountain.
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Originally Posted by dutret
it really doesn;t matter so much with old bikes as long as you can still get the saddle low enough to reach the pedals properly.
Originally Posted by dutret
When are you going to be standing over the frame flat footed? Most likely you'll have you foot on one pedal thats towards the top of its rotaion and the ball of the other foot on the ground. If not you'll have the bike tipped over slightly while you reposition the pedal anyway. So yeah like 10cm of difference may give you a problem but not four or five.
#18
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Hate to sound like an arrhole but how much are you looking to spend total? Building from scratch is definitely a good learning experience and you'll collect all the tools you'll ever need, but being a noob as you said, and with any hobby, you'll most likely be better off getting something that's already complete, be it new or used. But that depends i guess, you may know more or have good friends with good set ups to model after.
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I don't know what I want to spend total exactly. Basically I can spend $5000 if it was worth it but it's not. I just want a good price performance (and fun) ratio. I'm leaning towards a Miyata 1400, and I think I can find a frame with components or a full bike and strip off the wheels, handlebars, and seat and have a nice, cheap bike. I think in all that would be about $300 or less, and with Shimano 600 components combined witha nice triple butted and splined frame that seems good for city riding, I don't see how it would be much different from a new bike I can get for $600--not to mention I might learn a thing or two and appreciate the bike more.
But yes, I appreciate your input, and I agree that if price were the main issue, it would be safe to get a Bianchi Pista or Raleigh Rush Hour and be done with it.
But yes, I appreciate your input, and I agree that if price were the main issue, it would be safe to get a Bianchi Pista or Raleigh Rush Hour and be done with it.
#21
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Originally Posted by Jerseysbest
Hate to sound like an arrhole but how much are you looking to spend total? Building from scratch is definitely a good learning experience and you'll collect all the tools you'll ever need, but being a noob as you said, and with any hobby, you'll most likely be better off getting something that's already complete, be it new or used. But that depends i guess, you may know more or have good friends with good set ups to model after.
What better way to learn about bikes is there than by jumping right in? If someone is wants to build something, i say go for it. Sure, some people buy factory bikes only to take them apart and find out how they work, but thats not as much fun.
Building a bike is a fantastic process and a fixie is the perfect place to start. Tools are cheap, parts are readily availible, the mechanics are simple, and advice is easily had. Sure, anyone building their first bike is going to make mistakes, but how else are you going to learn? Before you know it you'll have all the oddball stem, seatpost, and bcd numbers memorized because you ****ed up and bought the wrong ones--but this isn't always a bad thing!
The best part about building your own bike is that it forces you to do the research to figure out how things work. This working knowledge of the individual parts makes a person a better, safer rider.
#22
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Speaking as the owner of a $550 conversion - it can get expensive (we're talking a $10 frame!). But the feeling of riding a bike that you built from the ground up is a very rewarding one. Do it.