starting my conversion: basics
10-12-06, 10:53 PM
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starting my conversion: basics
like the title says, im planning on starting my conversion soon (SS). what are some things to look out for. what products do you recommend. i want to paint my frame, should i do that before or after i get parts? what should i look for in a saddle/wheels...info like this would be great...thnx
10-12-06, 11:05 PM
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fixed / ss road bikes: what to look for
- bikes that use standard, easily-scrounged parts are best-- as opposed to odd bottom bracket or post sizes
- the higher the bottom bracket shell, the better.
- long "horizontal" dropouts.
- avoid stamped dropouts when possible. solid, forged = good.
- "three piece" aluminum cranks, preferably 170mm or less, with removable chainrings (some 70s designs have the large ring integrated)
- functional headset (though a rough one might just need grease and new bearings)
- aluminum road bars: ripe for flip-n-chop bullhorns!
- at least one salvagable brake and lever.
- don't underestimate the importance of choosing the right SIZE frame.
wheels:
- 700c clinchers = more tire options
- aluminum beats steel
- sealed bearings "r" awesome
- solid / bolt-on axles are ideal, but usually not essential
- get a mechanic to redish the rear wheel for a good chainline
- remove freewheel w/ chainwhip
- loctite fixed cog and bottom bracket lockring OR
- simply thread on a BMX freewheel....
- bikes that use standard, easily-scrounged parts are best-- as opposed to odd bottom bracket or post sizes
- the higher the bottom bracket shell, the better.
- long "horizontal" dropouts.
- avoid stamped dropouts when possible. solid, forged = good.
- "three piece" aluminum cranks, preferably 170mm or less, with removable chainrings (some 70s designs have the large ring integrated)
- functional headset (though a rough one might just need grease and new bearings)
- aluminum road bars: ripe for flip-n-chop bullhorns!
- at least one salvagable brake and lever.
- don't underestimate the importance of choosing the right SIZE frame.
wheels:
- 700c clinchers = more tire options
- aluminum beats steel
- sealed bearings "r" awesome
- solid / bolt-on axles are ideal, but usually not essential
- get a mechanic to redish the rear wheel for a good chainline
- remove freewheel w/ chainwhip
- loctite fixed cog and bottom bracket lockring OR
- simply thread on a BMX freewheel....
10-13-06, 12:03 AM
#3
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You forgot the most important one:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com
https://www.sheldonbrown.com
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Sintesi Conversion Serotta Track
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.
Sintesi Conversion Serotta Track
10-13-06, 05:24 AM
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Here's my first. love it, ride it to and from work every day in ny.
And here's a link to a way to long description of how it went (perfect for workplace internet diversion):
https://www.jaycokingpin.com/singlefix.pdf
And here's a link to a way to long description of how it went (perfect for workplace internet diversion):
https://www.jaycokingpin.com/singlefix.pdf
10-13-06, 05:42 AM
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Also: cottered cranks suck to deal with unless it is a super-beater. Then just leave them on.
10-13-06, 10:04 AM
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Avoid
not impossible, but just easier and better options)
27" if you want to go upgrade to 700C's
ANYTHING FRENCH, DUTCH, or Belgium
Vertical dropouts
knackered headsets and/or bottom brackets
One piece cranks
cotter cranks
stuck seat posts
stuck stems
other notes:
Just because it is Italian named
1. doesn't mean it was made in Italy
2. even if it were made in Italy, that it is not a POS
read the sticky on this subject
not impossible, but just easier and better options)27" if you want to go upgrade to 700C's
ANYTHING FRENCH, DUTCH, or Belgium
Vertical dropouts
knackered headsets and/or bottom brackets
One piece cranks
cotter cranks
stuck seat posts
stuck stems
other notes:
Just because it is Italian named
1. doesn't mean it was made in Italy
2. even if it were made in Italy, that it is not a POS
read the sticky on this subject
10-13-06, 10:09 AM
#7
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Spend your money wisely:
dropping $ on a paint job
vs.
buying a better frame to start with
better drive train
wheels
????
dropping $ on a paint job
vs.
buying a better frame to start with
better drive train
wheels
????
10-13-06, 12:03 PM
#9
jack of one or two trades
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Originally Posted by trashalicious
n00b question, but how do i tell if my cranks are ... integrated?
That hole that runs perpendicular to the spindle hole is the giveaway. It is plugged with a metal peg called a cotter. Hence the name.
one-piece (ashtabula) crank:
If it doesn't look like you can remove the crank from the BB without a saw, it's a one-piece. Easy to deal with, but generally crappy.
10-13-06, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by trashalicious
n00b question, but how do i tell if my cranks are 3 piece or integrated?
