crank removal
10-09-06, 08:46 AM
#1
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crank removal
does anyone know how to remove this style crank and do you also know if you can remove this bottom bracket and replace it with a square taper one?
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10-09-06, 08:59 AM
#3
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that's a cottered crank. very easy to remove. take the nut off the cotter pin, and beat the pin out with a wooden or plastic mallet. You can use amy hammer if you don't plan on re-using the cotter pin.
You'll need to change the BB to use a square taper crank, but assuming it's a common style of BB shell that should be no problem.
You'll need to change the BB to use a square taper crank, but assuming it's a common style of BB shell that should be no problem.
10-09-06, 08:59 AM
#4
Shiftless bum
Welcome to the wonderful world of removing cottered cranks, probably my least favourite bike thing. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html
While Matt's apparently had good luck with these, I've usually ended up having to drill them out.
Yes, there's a couple options for the BB, depending on the frame. If it's japanese you can use modern BB's. You could also use the existing cups with a proper length spindle. That's what I'm doing with an old Raleigh I don't want to throw much money at.
While Matt's apparently had good luck with these, I've usually ended up having to drill them out.
Yes, there's a couple options for the BB, depending on the frame. If it's japanese you can use modern BB's. You could also use the existing cups with a proper length spindle. That's what I'm doing with an old Raleigh I don't want to throw much money at.
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Originally Posted by operator
truneo that tuned park internal nipple wrench work ??
10-09-06, 09:04 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by cavit8
Welcome to the wonderful world of removing cottered cranks, probably my least favourite bike thing. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html
While Matt's apparently had good luck with these, I've usually ended up having to drill them out.
Yes, there's a couple options for the BB, depending on the frame. If it's japanese you can use modern BB's. You could also use the existing cups with a proper length spindle. That's what I'm doing with an old Raleigh I don't want to throw much money at.
While Matt's apparently had good luck with these, I've usually ended up having to drill them out.
Yes, there's a couple options for the BB, depending on the frame. If it's japanese you can use modern BB's. You could also use the existing cups with a proper length spindle. That's what I'm doing with an old Raleigh I don't want to throw much money at.
Wow. I figured Sheldon would have an article on them, but I had no idea they could be so difficult. I did indeed have very good luck with the one I did. It was a very old Italian bike, and everything on it was rusty, but the cranks came apart quite easily as I recall. the bottom bracket was a lot more difficult to get out. I think I had to put it in the vice and use the whole frame as a breaker bar to get it loose.
10-09-06, 09:30 AM
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man you guys are amazing i just posted this and i already have all the responses i need. thanks for coming through in the clutch guys.
10-09-06, 09:38 AM
#7
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I really recommend using a pipe of some sort to support the crank when you are beating on the cotter-pin. If you don't, the frame has to take all the abuse, and the tires/wheels/frame flex will absorb a lot of the force. Also: I can't recommend doing it in one giant-whack enough. Nothing sucks more than mashing over the threaded part and having to drill.
10-09-06, 10:41 AM
#8
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Originally Posted by Aeroplane
I really recommend using a pipe of some sort to support the crank when you are beating on the cotter-pin. If you don't, the frame has to take all the abuse, and the tires/wheels/frame flex will absorb a lot of the force. Also: I can't recommend doing it in one giant-whack enough. Nothing sucks more than mashing over the threaded part and having to drill.
