Track ends and fender mounts
 

I currently ride a fixed Schwinn whose fork I recently replaced with a 1" threadless Tange. Unfortunately, the front fender that I ran on the old fork doesn't fit on the new one (35mm full-coverage freddy fenders).

Additionally, I've had problems with my wheel slipping, requiring me to periodically pull it back to keep the chain from dropping. I've hunted around, but haven't been able to find a fix for this. I've considered trying to get someone to help me make some sort of tugnuts-for-horizontal-dropouts, but this hasn't happened yet and I'm not sure if it will happen in the foreseeable future.

The options that I'm considering at this point are to find a different 1" threadless fork with fender mounts and clearance, to grab a set of Race Blades or equivalent and just run the front, or to find a new track frame/fork combo with fender mounts and clearance. I ride year-round in Boston, so not having fenders is not an option.

So, any suggestions? The only frame/fork I've found that matches the criteria is the IRO Jamie Roy. Are there any other options on the frame front? (not that the Jamie Roy isn't a good frame or anything; just that I'd like to know my options)

i believe you mean the rob roy. and i'm a happy customer, for what its worth.

i believe the milwaukee (google search ben's cycle) has fender mounts, as does the redline 925 (you might want to head over to harris cyclery in west newton to test ride one)

edit: i should probably add that

a) track ends and fenders can really suck. you have to adjust/remove the fenders every time you remove your rear wheel. or have them really loose in the back.

b) surly tugnuts work with forward facing horizontal dropouts.

Just to clarify, is it your rear wheel that is slipping? How is the rear wheel being secured? quick release or track nuts?

I have this problem, but its not a big deal at all (I wouldn't even consider it a problem, even a bonus). I have a tiny 10mm box wrench on my multi tool and I loosen the fender nuts half a turn where the struts meet the fenders. Then i remove my wheel as normal and do everything else as normal, before I put the wheel back and tighten the fender nuts again. I'd say it takes a about a minute extra (absolute tops) to repair a flat, plus it means that unless someone undoes my rear fender, they aren't stealing my rear wheel. The fender clearance remains tight as well.

If your frame has eyelets, track ends or not, you might as well use them. I'm on a khs flite 100 that barely has any room for fenders (I had to jerry rig it), but no problem.

hey shiznaz can you describe your jerry-rigged fender mounting/provide pictures?
i have to mount my fenders on my Flite soon.
want to minimize headaches.

its kind of hard to explain in words (and it may vary by bike as I have a 60cm... )

Rear:

You'll need to drill 2 holes along the middle of the fender big enough to fit a zip tie through, which you then thread through the brake hole. (this is instead of their plastic bracket which does not leave enough room.

Instead of attaching the fender to the wheel side of the seatstay bridge, you'll have to attach it on the bb side of the seat tube bridge and torque it until something sounds like its going to break. You'll want to work with a long enough bolt at the beginning to compress it, but then it will be too long and poke the tire, so you have to use a shorter one once the round profile of the fenders has been flattened.

Front:

You'll have to raise it as high as possible, cut the bracket that attaches to the brake hole in half (its WAY too tall, you need it to be the height of the bolt head only).

It was mostly just fudging and trial and error, because while the flite 100s have fender mounts, it doesn't seem like they were ever designed to accomodate them.

I did this with generic SKS or planetbike 700c skinny fenders.

dirtyphotons: I meant the jamie roy. It looks like the rob roy would work also, but I plan on using a single dual-pivot up front, so I don't have any need for the rear brake cable hanger or the brake studs on the frame and fork. I'll definitely look at the Surly Tuggnut option, though; that sounds like just what I'm looking for.

prodigal_son: yup; my rear wheel is slipping forward in the dropouts, causing my chain to get slacker over time if I don't tighten it. I'm using axle nuts that I tighten either with an 8" adjustable wrench or an ~7" ratcheting box wrench, so I think I'm getting them fairly tight.

PIXSZZ

Yes indeed. I'm still not clear on why the OP's front fender is not fitting with the new fork. If it's not providing enough clearance to fit a fender and the usual tires, get a new fork. Otherwise...

P-clamps
filing/dremel if there's not enough room side to side
Reacharound or similar

http://www.rivercitybicycles.com/ima...llwood3_lg.jpg

marqueemoon: I am indeed looking around for a suitable fork, but not having much luck finding one. The fork I need has a 1" threadless steerer tube and has eyelets and clearance for a fender. The tange I've got right now fails on the "clearance" aspect, while the Surly Steamroller (the only 1" threadless fork I've found with proper clearance) doesn't have any eyelets. If you have any fork suggestions that are reasonably-priced for a beater, I'm certainly all ears.

The soma double cross fork is lugged tange prestige, comes in british racing green or black, threadless 1", eyelets for fenders and low rider rack, clearance for 38c tires. Great fork. 120 bucks from soma though :eek:

http://store.somafab.com/sodocrcyfr.html

the doublecross is 1 1/8"

You're right! That means that I can't swap my extra CK headset onto that bike! Blast you baxtefer!

The wheel should not be slipping if your nuts are tight enough. My wheel only slipped once and that was because I forgot to properly tighten them after changing a flat.

you could just use the plastic breakaway fender mounts for front fenders and pop them in and out instead of actually unscrewing anything.

This is what i do. Works pretty well. Just get 2 extra front fender mounts from your LBS (they probably have a box of misc. fender parts in the back) and add them to the back.
Holds the fender securely, and still lets you pop it out to change wheels.

good call, i've seen something like this done before but didn't have the chance to study it. makes sense.

Have you considered going to a threaded fork? There are a ****-ton of old bikes with 1" threaded forks out there that have clearance for a fender and fatter tires. You would have to deal with getting a new stem and headset, but both of those are cheap.