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Singulator worth using?
So for various reasons (raced/trained road this year, rode track bike for commute, etc) I haven't been on the trails at all this year. In fact, I sold my old SS rig to a buddy. Recently though, I picked up a decent SS setup that has vertical dropouts and magic gearing of 32:15.
I have never needed to run a singulator since I either had track ends or could manage a magic gear, but I have a singulator now and I was thinking to throw a 16 on the back so I can run 2:1 this weekend for my first SS ride in over a year. I'd even consider putting a 17 on but I only have a 16 or 13 available at this time (using a geared hub w/ spacers and a cog). I put the 16 on last night (along w/ the singulator) and everything appears to be working fine. The only time I would get any chatter from it was when i would backpedal more than a few rotations. What I'm wondering is, have any of you had good luck w/ a singulator? I'm worried it will skip or something when I'm standing... The difference between running a 15 or 16 is not huge, but it's enough to notice so I'm debating whether it's worth the bother, or if I should just go back to the magic gear and deal w/ the fact that I might have to dismount on the steeper stuff. Thoughts? |
In my mind, the best way to run a singulator is in push-up mode with a zip-tie pulling it to the chainstay for security. Carry an extra couple zip-ties in case you get a flat.
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CRAP!!! PURE CRAP!!! I've been through 5 since 2000. The last time one broke it cost me a top three finish in a MTB race. I love my SURLY. I hate the singulator.
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Originally Posted by sfcrossrider
CRAP!!! PURE CRAP!!! I've been through 5 since 2000. The last time one broke it cost me a top three finish in a MTB race. I love my SURLY. I hate the singulator.
Thanks for the nudge in the right direction:) |
I've been using one for street use off and on since 2000 without issue. +1 more for the push up method.
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singulators are crap for off road use. the spring is not strong enough. as aeroplane suggested, you can zip tie or wire it to the chainstay. i would just use an old derailleur instead. you can run a piece of cable through it... with the stop sitting out of the barrel adjuster and the end clamped like normal... this way you can fine tune your chainline... if your chainline is good, back pedaling or out of the saddle mashing shouldn't cause skipping problems.
on a single speed mountain bike, one cog tooth makes a HUGE difference. i would definitely use the 16. i know folks around here that will run 32:17 or even 32:18! on 26" single speeds, because we have some STEEEEEP ascents here. i run 32:18 on my 29"er, which is just about the same gear inch as 2:1 on a 26". |
I've got a magic gear of 32:?? on my Lava Dome SS. Haven't ridden it in such a long time though so that's why I can't remember the cog size. I've had no luck with any of the singulator type doohickies at all. Now if you wanna talk about a half link.... that was my ticket to the magic gear and no singulator.
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Or, you could get one of these. It definately is not crap.
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Thanks for all the input, dudes. I have a half link somewhere in my parts bin among the other bazillion tiny parts, that would definitely do the trick as the singulator is just barely necessary w/ the 16 on there to begin with. I bet if I had a 17 it would be magic.
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Use the half link. Makes all the difference.
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anyone ever work a Melvin over? Or what about the Convert?
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The melvin always looked like an over kill and with 2 pullies there was no increase in efficiency. The option to run 2 chainrings was kinda cool, but thats about it.
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Originally Posted by [165]
anyone ever work a Melvin over? Or what about the Convert?
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