diaper eater

so i rotafixed my cog to my hub, then tightened the lockring down with a spanner, then got on my bike and did a few hard accels to tighten up the cog if it was at all still loose, then gave the lockring another tightening.

so i went out for a ride, got 1.5 miles into it and was going down a hill, using all force to decelerate and not go careeening down the hill. next thing i know i felt a little slip, which i thought was due to the wetness and being on a slick tire. then the cranks came around again, and i got another slip, then another. until i stripped the threads clean.

is there anything i can do to secure the cog? theres a tiny bit of grip in the threads when its about halfway threaded on, but basically none once its threaded all the way. could i put a slight washer in there, then red locktite the cog. then really get the lockring on there good?

what about jbweld? im assuming ill need gods mighty force to keep this cog tight.

who'da thunk that my 200lbs could strip threads clean off

mander

Sounds like grounds for a warranty claim to me.

baxtefer

what cog?
was it wide enough that it made contact with the lockring?

diaper eater

cant warranty claim it because i bought it used from a small lbs. they certainly wont have sympathy cuz they didnt install the cog.

https://www.bikepartsusa.com/product_...1&p=01%2D94802

it was this cog. cheap i know, but yes it made quite solid contact with the lockring

baxtefer

the craptacular threading on the craptacular cog was probably the downfall. A craptacular hub (assuming suzue Jr) would only have contributed further.

paule

Remove ring and cog and clean the threads on the hub, lockring and cog with alcohol very good. Do this better than you think you need. Mix JB Weld and apply on the "threads" of the hub, cog and lock ring. Thread cog and lock ring back on, almost like the JB Weld is grease. If you can, tighten the lockring or at least thread it on as best as you can. Clean off remaining JB Weld and let is set for a day or so.

I did this over 6 mos ago to a POS track hub and it has never slipped and I've ridden it a lot. Of course I'm stuck for life with a 15 tooth Dura Ace cog, but at least I'm getting use out of the wheel.

Hope this helps. Also, use a brake.

diaper eater

well, it IS a flip flop track hub. fixed/free


but thanks for jumping to conclusions!

diaper eater

ahhh, thanks for the help.

i actually would have been riding a brake, the brake is still mounted however when i removed the old plastic bartape i had to remove the lever and upon removal i fubared the lever.

Aeroplane

If you can't hook a brake up yourself, maybe you should have a shop do the more critical work on your bike? Hate to sound rude, but it worries me.

slopvehicle

I have a set of Suzue Jr. wheels that worked fine for a couple thousand miles. I used a DA cog and lockring and installed it with a real lockring tool, though.

I remember reading of the Jr. stripping troubles on here. Someone suggested using DA cogs to lessen the chance of thread damage. Perhaps they were onto something...

keevohn

DA cog + DA lockring + shop install = 4 years and counting on Suzue Jr.

heliumb

Me, too. I had a generic hub that finally gave out. The cog forced the lockring off & stripped it some, too. I degreased, heavily JBwelded the cog & hub, rotafixed it (being careful not to JBweld my chain), then JBwelded the lockring. I'm saving it as a backup wheel. Going perma was the only way I could think to salvage it. I was afraid to put the DuraAce cog on any hub after that, anyway.

braingel

you may as well try asking the lbs, unless they are real dicks. i bought a used suzue promax for my girlfriend last week, and once i laced it up and went for a ride i realized the threads were stripped(not really "stripped, but the last one was just flattened. it was weird.) anyway, i called my lbs, told them what happened, and asked if they try out the used stuff they buy before reselling it. they said they only do a visual inspection, and that they'd take my word for it that i installed the cog and lockring correctly and gave me a full refund via store credit on used parts.

666pack

me. i've heard stories of that before.

that's why my cheap ass isn't riding a suzue jr.

Cynikal 

The only good from that company going under is the end of production of those hubs. Mine lasted a whole year of light riding before stripping. Go IRO or similar. 400% more hub for a few more bucks.

max-a-mill

my 230lbs ripped a shop installed eai cog off a suzue jr after about 6 months.

endlesscycles

A hammer on a chain whip is the best way to get a cog tight. You can't accelerate hard enough to put that kind of torque on it. Same dealio with the lockring.

lunacycle

Yep, nothing inherently wrong with the hub
In my case: Surly cog + DA lockring + greased threads + self-installed = 5 years and counting on Suzue Jr.

queerpunk

re: "shop installations."

i've known experienced wrenches who can rebuild crazy suspension units who have never, ever worked on a track hub. as in, didn't know that the lockring was reverse threaded. didn't think to grease threads. didn't know that you don't have to go nuts tugging a wheel backwards in order to get rideable chain tension.

so, "shop install" doesn't mean much. just b/c a wrench works at a shop, doesn't mean they're good with track hubs. which doesn't take much - just knowledge and experience (preferably firsthand).

see also: aeroplane's quote about fixed gear, bone-stupidity, etc.

keevohn

My equation assumes the shop has the proper tools and experience. Obviously a pretty big variable.

BostonFixed

IMO, the average "shop install" is better than the average "home install"..

sivat

There's no reason to put that much torque on it. The torque you'll put hammering up a hill is more than enough. The torque that you can put using a good chain whip is also plenty.

lunacycle

..."Average" being the operative word

monsterkidz

+1
I've seen shops butcher bikes.

gwhalin

I was reading this thread this morning before my commute and thinking how much it would suck if I stripped the threads on my new Phil hubs. Later, on my way into work, took off from a stop light pretty hard to beat traffic and felt a slip. I immediately thought back to this thread and convinced myself I had stripped the hub. Did not have any tools w/ me, so headed over to the LBS near my office. Turns out the cog was ******** loose. I had flipped the hub earlier this week and had not bothered to check that the cog shipped tight (checked everything was tight when I first got the new bike, but had not bothered to check the cog on the flop ... stupid move on my part).

Guy tightened cog and lockring up no charge (though he did ask me "who in the hell put this cog on???"), and all better now, but gave me a scare!