Spaceable BB?
#1
delete folders.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Gig Harbor
Posts: 63
Bikes: YATTAY 29er, centurion IRONMAN, soon FitFLOW
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Spaceable BB?
here is the dillimma... i have this frame i built. and im trying to build it up, but i have a stumbiling block. when i put on the cranks i had planned to use the drive side crank arm hits my chain stays... what are some ways around this? i wan't some profiles but they are a little much for me right now. any other options... it is barely hitting. 2 or 3 16ths would be all it would need.
thank you much.
thank you much.
#2
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
drift punch and hammer
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,085
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
you could hit it. or you could go get a bottom bracket thats the right size. A shop will be able to determine the size you have and the size you need. either way is going to work.
#5
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by recneps
you could hit it. or you could go get a bottom bracket thats the right size. A shop will be able to determine the size you have and the size you need. either way is going to work.
I just had this issue with my conversion and I had to releive the chainstay a little more drif punch and hammer because it was too tight to acheive proper chainline
#6
Senior Member
use a smaller chainring, and correspondingly smaller cog for the same gear ratio with better chainstay clearance.
#7
jack of one or two trades
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Suburbia, CT
Posts: 5,640
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by mattface
use a smaller chainring, and correspondingly smaller cog for the same gear ratio with better chainstay clearance.
There are bottom-bracket spacers out there. They will work as long as the non-drive side will have enough room to clear when you put it in.
A punch relief is a good idea, but I'd clear it with your shop first. Nothing worse for a bike than a dummy with a hammer.
Safest way is to just get a new, longer BB spindle. But that might throw off chainline. Tread lightly.
#8
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Aeroplane
Changing the ratio won't keep the crankarm from hitting.
There are bottom-bracket spacers out there. They will work as long as the non-drive side will have enough room to clear when you put it in.
A punch relief is a good idea, but I'd clear it with your shop first. Nothing worse for a bike than a dummy with a hammer.
Safest way is to just get a new, longer BB spindle. But that might throw off chainline. Tread lightly.
There are bottom-bracket spacers out there. They will work as long as the non-drive side will have enough room to clear when you put it in.
A punch relief is a good idea, but I'd clear it with your shop first. Nothing worse for a bike than a dummy with a hammer.
Safest way is to just get a new, longer BB spindle. But that might throw off chainline. Tread lightly.
#9
Paste Taster
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,392
Bikes: , Jury Bike, Moto Outcast 29, Spicer standard track frame and spicer custom steel sprint frame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Aeroplane
Changing the ratio won't keep the crankarm from hitting.
There are bottom-bracket spacers out there. They will work as long as the non-drive side will have enough room to clear when you put it in.
A punch relief is a good idea, but I'd clear it with your shop first. Nothing worse for a bike than a dummy with a hammer.
Safest way is to just get a new, longer BB spindle. But that might throw off chainline. Tread lightly.
There are bottom-bracket spacers out there. They will work as long as the non-drive side will have enough room to clear when you put it in.
A punch relief is a good idea, but I'd clear it with your shop first. Nothing worse for a bike than a dummy with a hammer.
Safest way is to just get a new, longer BB spindle. But that might throw off chainline. Tread lightly.
cleared it iwth my buddy that build frames and cleared it with my own metal working background es wirky good on about 1 maybe 2mm
#10
THIS SPACE FOR RENT
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,849
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Whacking it is fine, but if you need like 1-2 mm just put a spacer on the BB and a spacer on the hub as well.
For the OP, you need a new BB. Have you even considered chainline yet?
For the OP, you need a new BB. Have you even considered chainline yet?