changes for 2007 Raleigh Rush Hour
#1
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changes for 2007 Raleigh Rush Hour
Hi everyone,
I've been lurking for a while but this is my first post.
I got my first fix, a 53cm 2007 rush hour, a couple of weeks ago and thought some might find this info useful.
There are a few changes that are not listed on raleigh's website.
Good changes: Mine came with 165 cranks rather than 170 and also an 18 tooth cog. Much better than the 15 that they list, although I'm thinking of going to a 17 tooth since arizona is really flat and 17 skid patches would be better than 3. My tires are wearing quickly but skidding is so much damn fun.
Bad changes: the decals are now under the clearcoat (unless I'm just a ****** and can't figure it out, but I can't feel any edge or anything). This sucks. One of the reasons that I liked the rush hour is that I thought I could remove all decals. F@#$!
Oh yeah, the cog and lockring came very loose and I had to tighten them both quite a bit. I'm glad I didn't strip the hub.
I've been lurking for a while but this is my first post.
I got my first fix, a 53cm 2007 rush hour, a couple of weeks ago and thought some might find this info useful.
There are a few changes that are not listed on raleigh's website.
Good changes: Mine came with 165 cranks rather than 170 and also an 18 tooth cog. Much better than the 15 that they list, although I'm thinking of going to a 17 tooth since arizona is really flat and 17 skid patches would be better than 3. My tires are wearing quickly but skidding is so much damn fun.
Bad changes: the decals are now under the clearcoat (unless I'm just a ****** and can't figure it out, but I can't feel any edge or anything). This sucks. One of the reasons that I liked the rush hour is that I thought I could remove all decals. F@#$!
Oh yeah, the cog and lockring came very loose and I had to tighten them both quite a bit. I'm glad I didn't strip the hub.
#2
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the loose lockring and cog is a known issue. there were some that have jumped threads and come off completely.
using a surly, or dura ace cog and lockring(campy will work as long as TPI is same) have been the common fix per perry@raleigh.
and the decals are under clear coat. the tubing is reynolds now. where earlier tubing was raleigh sourced DB cromo or reynolds 525(like the new frames).
good luck with your sweet new bike man!
keep the rubber side down.
using a surly, or dura ace cog and lockring(campy will work as long as TPI is same) have been the common fix per perry@raleigh.
and the decals are under clear coat. the tubing is reynolds now. where earlier tubing was raleigh sourced DB cromo or reynolds 525(like the new frames).
good luck with your sweet new bike man!
keep the rubber side down.
#3
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if your worried about decals for theft purposes, you can always go the route of using ugly stickers, electrical tape, and a top tube protector to hide brand names. unfortunately if you just want the clean looks you're pretty much out of luck.
but, the changes sound like some good improvements. congrats on the new ride!
but, the changes sound like some good improvements. congrats on the new ride!
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If you check their warranty one of the voiding conditions is removal of the decals. Maybe their concern is someone making a poor repair after an accident.
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Originally Posted by stevel610
If you check their warranty one of the voiding conditions is removal of the decals. Maybe their concern is someone making a poor repair after an accident.
I so wish decals were optional at the point of sale. Ruins a perfectly good bike.