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Surly Dingle cog mini-review.

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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Surly Dingle cog mini-review.

Old 03-08-07, 10:54 PM
  #1  
scrublover
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Surly Dingle cog mini-review.

So I ordered one of these int he 17/21 size, and a new 9 speed SRAM something or other chain. In conjunction with a 42T NOS REAL unramped ring I had sitting around in the parts bin, things bolted up nice and tight. I think I might actually want a 44T up front, but the 42 was there already, so...

It went on this; though this is a before shot. I'll try and grab more, and of the chainline and so on if anyone is interested.


The front ring is on the inside of the crank mount bits, and run backwards. The Dingle cog went on sans spacers, but lotsa' grease, and lotsa' torque on the lockring. Standard Surly lockring snugged up just fine, all the threads engaged. The chainline sites right smack in between the two cogs in back.

Around the block testing with both cogs had no issues with slippage/untoward drive noise. Rode to work tonight in the 42x17 setup without any trouble, including a few good, long, hard stops. Event hough it'll be a little low for the road, I'll swap to the 21T for the spin home in the morning to make sure of no trouble there.

Since my hub is a fixed/free, and I don't want to do the BB lockring/loctite thing on the free side (or buy a new wheel) this seemed like a good way to get a road/trail fixed setup, and I still have the freewheel for total wuss times if needed. Not super cheap, but then, it's still cheaper than a new double fixed rear wheel.

If'n my local testing ground dries out anytime soon, I'll be able to give a better review with some actual trail time on the setup

Disclaimer: this rider uses a "messenger" bag, yet is not a messenger, and yes, the headtube setup *is* funky, but it's the way I like it.
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Old 03-08-07, 10:58 PM
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Thanks; I've been really curious about this. Isn't the dingle designed to be used with a double setup up front? In the back you can also get a double freewheel made by white industries. That would be ridiculous.
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Old 03-08-07, 11:00 PM
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Thanks for the review. and especially thanks for the flashbacks. Everytime I see those cable hangers, it makes me miss my first Mt Bike.
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Old 03-08-07, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by endo shi
Thanks; I've been really curious about this. Isn't the dingle designed to be used with a double setup up front? In the back you can also get a double freewheel made by white industries. That would be ridiculous.
seems like surly's intent is to use double rings. methinks since it's using a more laterally flexible 9-speed chain, running the chainline with the front ring smack in the middle of the two rear cogs should work well enough. it's off from absolute straight such a small amount, that slip/drop shouldn't be an issue. durability? we'll see how much more wear it causes running it that way. i don't see it being a major issues either.

the cog seems fairly stout. the teeth though narrow, are pretty tall. unlike a regualr 9-speed cog, they (obviously) are unramped. that and a decent ring up front, good chain tension, doing a good setup from the start, and just doing decent general upkeep should keep things just fine.

i actually took the freewheel off at the same time. never used it anyhow...
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Old 03-09-07, 02:15 AM
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I don't see the point of a dingle cog, it's an another answer to a problem that does not exist. If I was keen to change my gear ratio easily I'd buy a 3 speed hub.
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Old 03-09-07, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Bikkhu
I don't see the point of a dingle cog, it's an another answer to a problem that does not exist. If I was keen to change my gear ratio easily I'd buy a 3 speed hub.
think of it this way: i have a fixed/free hub. i don't want to buy a new rear wheel. i don't want to f#@k around using a fixed cog on the free side. i want to ride pavement out to some of my local trail systems. my road gearing is too high for me to enjoy riding said trails with. i want to run a lower fixed gear for that. is it a problem? no. but, this is a solution. far cheaper than a new wheel. all i needed was the cog and a chain. if it doesn't work out, then the dingel sells on e-bay, and the 9-speed chain gets used on one of my two mtbs that can use it.

it's not about having different road gearings, at least not for me. thus the 17/21 spread between the two. i can have a decent ratio for getting to the trails, and have a decent ratio for riding said trails. without having to get a new wheel. see? it's simple.

(rode home this morning with it flipped to the 21t "cog" and had no problems with it either. it'll be a few days before i'll have any opportunity to hit dirt with it. most of the trail near me is still too sloppy from snowmelt; i'm not gonna' go trash trail just to try it out.)
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Old 03-09-07, 09:08 AM
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Except if you want to ride on trails there is absolutely zero practical reasons not to just slap a track cog on the freewheel side.
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Old 03-09-07, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dutret
Except if you want to ride on trails there is absolutely zero practical reasons not to just slap a track cog on the freewheel side.
other than not wanting to have it spin off with backpressure you mean? you're right, other than that.

jesus, you people are so freakin' hidebound about doing stuff the way it's always been done because that's the way it's always been done...

edit: yeah, i know i can loctite it/use a bb lockring/etc. as said above, i don't want to go that route. sorrry for the snarky there, but come on man! so it's a different way of doing it? big deal? this is a way for me to get two very different ratios, without buying a new rear wheel. and without cludging up a fixed setup on the freeside of the hub. sure, that may work fine, but it's not the route i wanted to take, what with potentially screwing up the hub, or me if it failed.

Last edited by scrublover; 03-09-07 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 03-09-07, 09:31 AM
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What tires do you have that you can apply anywhere near enough torque to spin off a cog? It just isn't going to happen. Especailly since you NEED a front brake to ride on trails.
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Old 03-09-07, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dutret
What tires do you have that you can apply anywhere near enough torque to spin off a cog? It just isn't going to happen. Especailly since you NEED a front brake to ride on trails.

i never said i would; i have no idea if i could. what part of my writing up above can you not comprehend? i found something that hopefully/should work just fine for me. that isn't to say the cog on the free side wouldn't, just that i'm choosing a different way to get the result i want.

i don't quite get why some people have problems with that. but, whatever. i saw the dingle on the surly site, and thought it was a better idea than a new wheel or mucking about with a cog on the free side. if it works, great. if not, so be it. so far it appears that it will work just fine. instead of flipping the wheel, i just have to move it a bit. call me lazy.


wow. need a front brake on trails? really? gee, i'd have never realized that. i'm so glad you told me... i've been riding mtb for quite a while, and figured out how much more imprtant the front brake is vs. the rear a looooong time ago.
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Old 03-09-07, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by scrublover
it's not about having different road gearings, at least not for me. thus the 17/21 spread between the two. i can have a decent ratio for getting to the trails, and have a decent ratio for riding said trails. without having to get a new wheel. see? it's simple.
I really don't care about the dingle one way or another. However;
You posted about how great the dingle is
Others said it solved a problem that didn't exist
You posted what problem is solved(quoted above)
I pointed out that wasn't a problem at all.
you claimed that it was cause you had to worry about cogs spinning off
I showed you that it never would under the circumstances you described
1. because of traction.
2. because you would have a front brake.
You went off the handle about why people are attacking you. And gave one more problem of dubious severity the dingle solves.

I don;t see how any of this relates to a lack of reading comprehension on my part. Buy the dingle, post about the dingle all you want but calm the **** down when people criticize your "review".
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Old 03-09-07, 11:11 AM
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"Solving a problem that doesn't exist"

To me a dingle is an excellent idea for running a road/trail fixie where you can have a 45/42 up front and 17/21 out back. 45/17 is a great spinny street gear for cruising to the trail head, then easily w/o flipping the wheel (eh hem quickbeam) swap to a perfect 42/21. In theory this seams great. Yeah, it's not solving a problem so much as giving you the possibility of a beastly versatile bike.
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Old 03-09-07, 11:14 AM
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Dutret has yelled at you,I think you are an official member of Bike Forums now, congratulations.
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Old 03-09-07, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by endo shi
"Solving a problem that doesn't exist"

To me a dingle is an excellent idea for running a road/trail fixie where you can have a 45/42 up front and 17/21 out back. 45/17 is a great spinny street gear for cruising to the trail head, then easily w/o flipping the wheel (eh hem quickbeam) swap to a perfect 42/21. In theory this seams great. Yeah, it's not solving a problem so much as giving you the possibility of a beastly versatile bike.
I think 42/21 is far from perfect in many peoples eyes. That is really the only problem I see with the system, The gap should be bigger between the two.
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Old 03-09-07, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by dutret
I think 42/21 is far from perfect in many peoples eyes. That is really the only problem I see with the system, The gap should be bigger between the two.
Are you thinking 42/21 is too high or too low? I think a 2:1 or close is ideal for trail riding.
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Old 03-09-07, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by dutret
I think 42/21 is far from perfect in many peoples eyes. That is really the only problem I see with the system, The gap should be bigger between the two.
Their concept is that you would use two chainrings with the same number tooth difference as the cogs, so you could do something like 40x21 and 44x17. If you have some dropout to work with, 39x21 and 45x17 would be easy to do and make for a pretty sweet setup. I agree an even bigger difference would be nice, but it's really only necessary for setups like the OP's 2x1 rather than the 2x2 they have in mind.
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Old 03-09-07, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by endo shi
Are you thinking 42/21 is too high or too low? I think a 2:1 or close is ideal for trail riding.
With 26" I think 2:1 is the upper limit of what good for anything but a pancake.

the thing is that 40/21 and 44/17 give a gear that is slightly to high for riding on trails and possibly slightly to low for riding on the street. If they were going to offer three sizes I wish they would have made the largest gap 5 or 6 teeth to make a ride to the trail bike slightly better.
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Old 03-09-07, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by scrublover

Disclaimer: and yes, the headtube setup *is* funky, but it's the way I like it.

Hey scrub, funny seeing you over here from the MTBR boards...

What is going on with the headset. No diss, but curious, did you weld on more headtube below the existing headtube? Thanks...
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Old 03-09-07, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by scrublover
i don't want to f#@k around using a fixed cog on the free side.
Have you ever tried it? Since you're running a brake you'll be pleasantly surprised. Don't even bother with a lockring either.

Thanks for the review on the dingle, btw. I might try one.
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Old 03-09-07, 11:48 AM
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Appreciate the review

Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences with the dingle. I appreciate it.
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Old 03-09-07, 11:51 AM
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I am a HUGE fan of the double chainring double cog setup. I have it on my winter SS mtb and its the best. If I look outside and there is a ton of snow I move the chain inwards to gear down, and if I can see some nice clean pavement I move the chain out to gear up. The whole process takes about 20-30 seconds and I do it before I get on the bike. Since I have a chain tensioner I never need to unbolt the back wheel. It definitely solves a problem: I don't have to ever adjust derailleurs and I still have 2 gears that I switch back and forth every couple of days.
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Old 03-09-07, 01:05 PM
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off topic, but I want an OnOne 456 like woah.
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Old 03-09-07, 01:47 PM
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I imagine the green accents on your bike really set off your eyes.

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Old 04-11-07, 01:09 PM
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I'm bringing this back, because I just ordered a Dingle myself.

I'd like to hear the OP's thoughts on the Dingle after a month of riding.

If he could post some pictures of the chainline with a single ring, I'd appreciate that too.
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Old 04-11-07, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Shiznaz
I am a HUGE fan of the double chainring double cog setup. I have it on my winter SS mtb and its the best. If I look outside and there is a ton of snow I move the chain inwards to gear down, and if I can see some nice clean pavement I move the chain out to gear up. The whole process takes about 20-30 seconds and I do it before I get on the bike. Since I have a chain tensioner I never need to unbolt the back wheel. It definitely solves a problem: I don't have to ever adjust derailleurs and I still have 2 gears that I switch back and forth every couple of days.
That's what I'm talking about. I don't know about this trail business, but sometimes I feel strong and the weather is nice, while other times I feel lazy and/or the weather is lousy. Or maybe for my stop-and-go, trafficky commute I want a lower gear, but when I take the rig out for a long jaunt on the weekend I'd prefer to get my fast on.

But you know what would be another nice solution to this problem-that's-only-sort-of-a-problem? Little bitty quick-release levers to take the place of chainring bolts. It would look godawful, but it would be handy.
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