Would any of you use 160mm cranks?
#1
Commuting Fool
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: North Hollywood, CA
Posts: 342
Bikes: Raleigh Rush Hour (SS/fixie)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Would any of you use 160mm cranks?
I've been using 170mm for years. Bulletproof sells cranks as short as 140mm I believe!
Would something like 160's make it easier to spin down hills at 110-120 rpm? I run a 48x18 fixed. The downside would be loss of power on the flats and inclines?
Would something like 160's make it easier to spin down hills at 110-120 rpm? I run a 48x18 fixed. The downside would be loss of power on the flats and inclines?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gnv, FL
Posts: 1,890
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You should stay away from 160s unless you have short legs. Small canks turned by long legs is inefficient.
Why do you want to spin so fast on the downhills? Just get a lower gearing if you just want to spin faster.
Why do you want to spin so fast on the downhills? Just get a lower gearing if you just want to spin faster.
#3
DNPAIMFB
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cowtown, AB
Posts: 4,655
Bikes: Titus El Guapo, Misfit diSSent, Cervelo Soloist Carbon, Wabi Lightning, et al.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I used to run 180's and could spin those pretty good. Sorry, I'm not helping...
#5
oldsprinter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tokyo
Posts: 935
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
160mm sounds great. Quick acceleration, better cornering, better on your knees - and some tests have shown that short cranks are ergonomically more efficient on the flat. I'd try them (and if you do buy them please tell us what you think of them).
#9
LF for the accentdeprived
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Budapest, Hungary
Posts: 3,549
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You bet I would. If I were 5 foot tall.
When will people realize at last that short cranks won't help chicken****??? Yeah, you can spin a bit better with a shorter crank... but you lose a bit of leverage. It's exactly like switching to a taller gear ratio, only you **** up your biomechanics as a bonus.
When will people realize at last that short cranks won't help chicken****??? Yeah, you can spin a bit better with a shorter crank... but you lose a bit of leverage. It's exactly like switching to a taller gear ratio, only you **** up your biomechanics as a bonus.
#10
oldsprinter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tokyo
Posts: 935
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
People are too hung up on the "170mm is best length" idea. 170mm is specced by most bike firms because it's a good all-round length and suits most people over most terrain.
If you want to climb a mountain, go a bit longer - 175mm.
If you want to set an hour record, you might want to do what Sosenka did (https://www.sosenka.cz/ENG/extra07-06.html).
On the other hand, if you're looking for fast acceleration and short bursts of speed you might want to do what the 1989 world professional sprint champion Claudio Golinelli did and ride 155mm (not a typo) cranks! (There's a good vid of Golinelli here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkkTSVVrPYk ).
Golinelli is about 175cm tall, no giant I'll admit, but not 5 foot either.
I ride 165mm on the track and road - I would happily go shorter on the track and/or my fixed bike I ride to work on.
If you want to climb a mountain, go a bit longer - 175mm.
If you want to set an hour record, you might want to do what Sosenka did (https://www.sosenka.cz/ENG/extra07-06.html).
On the other hand, if you're looking for fast acceleration and short bursts of speed you might want to do what the 1989 world professional sprint champion Claudio Golinelli did and ride 155mm (not a typo) cranks! (There's a good vid of Golinelli here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkkTSVVrPYk ).
Golinelli is about 175cm tall, no giant I'll admit, but not 5 foot either.
I ride 165mm on the track and road - I would happily go shorter on the track and/or my fixed bike I ride to work on.
#11
Commuting Fool
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: North Hollywood, CA
Posts: 342
Bikes: Raleigh Rush Hour (SS/fixie)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by oldsprinter
160mm sounds great. Quick acceleration, better cornering, better on your knees - and some tests have shown that short cranks are ergonomically more efficient on the flat. I'd try them (and if you do buy them please tell us what you think of them).
short cranks are ergonomically more efficient on the flat
#12
spinspinspinspin
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 880
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Autobus
I've been using 170mm for years. Bulletproof sells cranks as short as 140mm I believe!
Would something like 160's make it easier to spin down hills at 110-120 rpm? I run a 48x18 fixed. The downside would be loss of power on the flats and inclines?
Would something like 160's make it easier to spin down hills at 110-120 rpm? I run a 48x18 fixed. The downside would be loss of power on the flats and inclines?
#13
aka mattio
Originally Posted by LóFarkas
You bet I would. If I were 5 foot tall.
When will people realize at last that short cranks won't help chicken****??? Yeah, you can spin a bit better with a shorter crank... but you lose a bit of leverage. It's exactly like switching to a taller gear ratio, only you **** up your biomechanics as a bonus.
When will people realize at last that short cranks won't help chicken****??? Yeah, you can spin a bit better with a shorter crank... but you lose a bit of leverage. It's exactly like switching to a taller gear ratio, only you **** up your biomechanics as a bonus.
I am 5'5" tall, which has a lot to do with my story: i went from 170 to 165 on a new bike (also with criterium drops), and found comfort on a bike that i hadn't found before - especially in the drops.
short people have different proportions than tall people and it's foolish to think that stuff like 170 cranks and track drops are going to provide the same level of comfort. quite frankly, losing <3% of leverage (5/170) is a small price to pay for equipment that will maximize the smootheness and efficienency of my stroke.
#14
big ring
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: philadelphia
Posts: 5,838
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I have 155mm on a single speed MTB and that was motivated due to the 24" inch rear wheel (needed pedal clearance.) Down side is loss of climbing torque, plus side is smaller stroke circles at speed. Since I rarely speed with the bike (3" rear tires), it sucks. I would ride 175mm if I could on that bike. I'm 5"11" 32.25 in inseam - I ride 175 on my road bike.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Brookline, MA
Posts: 453
Bikes: 2010 Fisher Simple City 8, 2010 Geekhouse Team CX, 2009 IF SSR, 2007 BFSSFG IRO
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I run 170 on my fixie and have found I'm very happy with it. I plan on getting 170 for my bfssfg iro as well as any other bikes i might pickup. whether to run it 49/16, or 48/16 or what is still in the air, as the fixie i have now is gear 50/15, which is great on long flats, but sucks to skid on, as well as for climbs.
#16
é wot?
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Inner Canuckistan
Posts: 364
Bikes: Gary Fisher Montare, 1973 Bottechia, IRO Jamie Roy,1998 Cervelo Eyre Tri, 1982 Peugeot Sport fixed gear, and some kind of red bike hanging in the rafters
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Some good discussion at biketechreview on this ... https://biketechreview.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1358
There's more there if you have a sniff around - one guy (the forum admin) went to a set of 140mm cranks on his TT bike and did very well with them (usually rides 175s I think). And then there was the guy on a tri forum (slowtwitch.com) that usually rode 180s, (tallish guy) and then switched to 200s and had great results with that.
I don't believe that this is something that has been completely figured out yet. Find what works for you. My thinking is - good aerobic engine and good coordination your strength? go for short cranks ... good muscle power and endurance more your thing? long cranks.
edit: oh and keep in mind that all those HPV records are usually set on very short cranks, 140, 150 is common.
Also you can keep the same gain ratio (see: Sheldon) by changing your gearing to suit your cranks. This way you can keep the same relation between the force you're applying to the pedal and the speed of the bike, while varying your foot speed.
There's more there if you have a sniff around - one guy (the forum admin) went to a set of 140mm cranks on his TT bike and did very well with them (usually rides 175s I think). And then there was the guy on a tri forum (slowtwitch.com) that usually rode 180s, (tallish guy) and then switched to 200s and had great results with that.
I don't believe that this is something that has been completely figured out yet. Find what works for you. My thinking is - good aerobic engine and good coordination your strength? go for short cranks ... good muscle power and endurance more your thing? long cranks.
edit: oh and keep in mind that all those HPV records are usually set on very short cranks, 140, 150 is common.
Also you can keep the same gain ratio (see: Sheldon) by changing your gearing to suit your cranks. This way you can keep the same relation between the force you're applying to the pedal and the speed of the bike, while varying your foot speed.
Last edited by yairi; 03-30-07 at 09:36 AM.
#17
jack of one or two trades
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Suburbia, CT
Posts: 5,640
Bikes: Old-ass gearie hardtail MTB, fix-converted Centurion LeMans commuter, SS hardtail monster MTB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Autobus
Bulletproof sells cranks as short as 140mm I believe!
#18
oldsprinter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tokyo
Posts: 935
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Autobus
Do you have a link to this study?
I wish I could find it again. But bascially it found the 170mm is the worst length. Short cranks are great for speed on the flat, long cranks are great for climbing. Something around 150mm was shown to be far better than expected.
If hour records have been set on 190mm cranks, and world championships have been won on 155mm. 170mm cranks might not be the best for everyone.
Last edited by oldsprinter; 03-30-07 at 01:08 PM.
#19
spinspinspinspin
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 880
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by yairi
I don't believe that this is something that has been completely figured out yet. Find what works for you. My thinking is - good aerobic engine and good coordination your strength? go for short cranks ... good muscle power and endurance more your thing? long cranks.
With short cranks, you have to apply more force to the pedals, and move your feet slower for a given RPM.
(from the biketech review thread
At 114rpm, 180.0 crank, 300W pedal speed is 1.074m/s and 31.4lbF
At 114rpm, 172.5 crank, 300W pedal speed is 1.03m/s and 32.7lbF
At 114rpm, 140.0 crank, 300W pedal speed is 0.84m/s and 40.3lbF
So short cranks should appeal to the strong but slow legged among us- more force and slower movement at a given rpm/power output.
Wheras the longer cranks should appeal to people with les strength, but good aerobic fitness and co-ordination, who want to move their feet further, faster, but with less force.
#20
é wot?
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Inner Canuckistan
Posts: 364
Bikes: Gary Fisher Montare, 1973 Bottechia, IRO Jamie Roy,1998 Cervelo Eyre Tri, 1982 Peugeot Sport fixed gear, and some kind of red bike hanging in the rafters
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
That's a good point, but I think you also have to consider that it will be possible to spin the shorter cranks faster, and in fact that your natural cadence will change depending on the crank length.
#21
Commuting Fool
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: North Hollywood, CA
Posts: 342
Bikes: Raleigh Rush Hour (SS/fixie)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by andre nickatina
i wouldn't go lower than 165. i like my 170's, hate my 175's except while going up hills.
hate my 175's except while going up hills.