brocksanders

front tube blew and hub was stripped today, all within about 5 minutes!
i'm going to have to get a new rear wheel. any recommendations on a decent wheel build that won't freakin' strip to ****!

donny187

the cream kilo is pretty beast... a friend of mine just got it in and we built it up the other day.

looks really yellowish.

anyway i think i'm going with phils to either open pros or cxp33s........ or aeroheads............... any pointers or suggestions?

grymg

no experience with them but I've seen many recommend phil wood hubs to either velocity aeroheads or open pros.

my rear hub stripped today too, after only 5 rides. I tightened the heck out of both the cog and lockring too. I noticed on BD they said warranty doesn't cover stripped threads. So am I stuck to haveing to buy a new wheel?

novacane

phil woods are really expensive, i'd just go with a weinmann rear wheel.

grymg

thanks, I'll check it out. can I salvage my stock Kilo rims and just buy the weinmann hub, and have my LBS spoke the wheel together? It'd be cheaper than a whole new wheel right?

JayNev

what's the deal with everything breaking... is it user error or is the quality way down? there never were as many reported problems before.

brocksanders

i don't know, it seems almost everyone is stripping their hubs. just to make sure, to all of you with stripped hubs, this happened while skidding right?

anyone have any experience with Surly hubs? also, would the Weinmanns be strong enough?

tFUnK

the hub looks like aluminum, and the threads look like they'd strip easily. doesn't really have anything to do with not tightening the cog and lockring; just really fragile aluminum parts.

chillerthanmost

blew out my rear tire about 2 miles from home heading out
walked back home with the bike over my shoulder jesus style
it sucked. oh well. new tire comes next week.

blankgen

pm me if you ever decide to sell that sovtek I've been trying to score one of those for ages now

and the bike looks surprisingly hot like that, like a fade.

chillerthanmost

thanks dude... i kinda wish I would have left a little fade on the down tube and the rear one, like I did the top tube... but oh well. new paint comes on in a couple weeks. will be like a root beer/dark ale foam color.

I love that Sovtek. would put it up against a 5150 ANY day. it destroys...

SteveCrowley

Great idea bd. I have a Rush hour and I love it, but it has no brazeons/ eyelets or anything, so I;m considering getting a kilo tt pro

mongchacha

isn't the toe-clip and pedal installed wrong?

physh

Whattt, I've been looking at your pedals for like 10 mins. They are installed wrong.
I looked at both of your pictures with the new camera too, and it dosn't matter if the picture is reversed or not.

The curved side is the bottom of the pedal and the spur is supposed to face back so you can flip up the cages.

You have the curved (concave) side facing up, and the spur facing forward.

The pedals are on the right sides of the bike, you just have your cages installed on the wrong side. The flanges that have the loops on them are supposed to keep the straps in place, you have that on the side the cage is attached to. If you've installed many pedals, you have been installing them all wrong.

physh

Haha, I thought I was going crazy.

4doorhoor

The kilos used to ship with a dura ace cog. Now they ship with some stamped crap, thats why the hubs are stripping.

The first thing people should be doing is upgrading the cog and lockring and installing them tightly with grease. For safety if nothing else....

xg43x

I am not quite sure why you are having problems with threads stripping. My little brother who rides alot more aggressive than most kids in their 20s has not had a problem with his hub at all and he has had his Mercier Kill TT for atleast 6 months. I really believe all these hubs stripping out are user error. I removed the cog and lockring, greased the threads with Phil Wood and rotafixed the cog onto the hub and tightened down the lockring and it has not slipped.

Zoonice

Hello Forums. Know this might not be a good first post but I had to ask. (Sorry for know pics too.) But rather then starting a new topic, I thought I would post in here.
I was looking to get a Kilo for my first fixed gear. I was reading that they are great first bike but people say that the parts are not that great. SO the question is, If I was to get the Kilo, what would be the most important things to do/ parts to replace?
I do not have to much of a bike knowledge, so if you could break it down that would be nice. Thanks for the time. (Please don't get flamed...)

4doorhoor

Look two posts above yours....

grymg

mine is definitely user error. useful info for the Kilo/fixed newbies who get this bike. The original 16T cog and lockring worked fine. I tightened them before running, on the first ride it slipped a hair but then locked into place on its own (don't ask me how, it just did).

So 5 rides later I removed the lockring and cog and screwed on a 17T cog. I tightened the cog with a chainwhip. Then I screwed on the lockring with a lockring wrench. I didn't notice it at the time but while I was tightening the lockring it was actually unscrewing the cog a bit. So at first ride, it slipped but I thought it would tighten on its own. But during a hard skid, the cog and lockring both just came off the threads and I ended up coasting home.

So lesson learned - best to have a separate chainwhip and lockring wrench, not the kind with both on them. So you can tighten the cog with the whip and hold it there with the whip while at the same time you tighten the lockring with the wrench.

SAGISI

So while waitng for my new wheels to come in after stripping my rear hub i decided to ghetto rig my wheel so i can practice track stands. Flipped the wheel around and used the other side of the hub and threw on my 17t cog and then put the stock cog after for a temporary lock ring. For sure im not going to try riding the bike faster then a few mph but its good enough to roll around and get the itch to ride down to a minimum.

anacrime

i'm thinkin about gettin the TT pro. i'm 5'9, 31" inseam, size 11.5 shoe. what size should i get?

corter

size 11.5 shoe usually = 53cm, but maybe 57. 55? seriously, read like 5 pages of the thread, you'll figure it out .

chillerthanmost

JayNev

qualiy control is definitely down! sucks for all f yall who bought recently! actually, in ever bought from bikesdirect... who woudlve guessed.