Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Mercier Kilo TT Pictures

Old 01-20-10, 08:17 AM
  #9076  
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Originally Posted by WoundedKnee View Post
And steer tube cuttin?
I used the selle an-atomica fit recommendations. got the an-atomica saddle and leather bar-tape, the fitting info included seemed really technical but I wanted to try to set it up according to some professional guidelines. I've only ridden it for a few minuets (horrible weather) but it felt pretty dreamy.

edit: I did cut the steer tube to end up with about 3 inches of drop from saddle to bar.

Last edited by stillanimal; 01-20-10 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 01-20-10, 12:43 PM
  #9077  
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Since all of you have Mercier Kilo's maybe you can answer a question I have, I'm not sure if it's been brought up before or not. Are the stock cranks (Truvativ Touro) that come with the Kilo generally off a little bit, as far as chain line goes? When I spin the pedals there is a slight clicking noise coming from the rear cog (I'm not sure if the chain just needs to be lubed or not). I can also see the chain hop a little (up and down) as if the teeth aren't going cleanly into the chain slots. I have some pictures I took but the chain line may not be super clear in them.




Last edited by bebop00; 01-20-10 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 01-20-10, 12:51 PM
  #9078  
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I'm also wondering if the cog I have is the one that comes stock with the Kilo TT's. It kind of looks like a Surly cog to me but I'm not sure, I haven't ever seen the stock Kilo cog or the Surly cog in person so... Thanks

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Old 01-20-10, 12:56 PM
  #9079  
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Looks fine to me. What cog are you using?
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Old 01-20-10, 01:04 PM
  #9080  
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Oops...didn't see the last two pics. Where the teeth are on that cog may be playing a part. It doesn't really look like something to lose any sleep over though.
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Old 01-20-10, 01:41 PM
  #9081  
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What you're describing sounds like a chain tension issue, not a chainline problem. The photos look good. Make sure your chain isn't binding at the tight spot on the crank rotation.
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Old 01-20-10, 01:46 PM
  #9082  
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Looks like an Origin 8 cog to me. I have one on my beater winter bike. Its holding up just fine. I wouldn't worry about that nor the chain line. Everything looks to be in good order.

Last edited by Deshi; 01-21-10 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 01-20-10, 02:29 PM
  #9083  
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Cool, thanks for the help everyone. I'm going to be swapping out the crankset for a 103mm square taper bottom bracket along with a stronger chain ring sooner than later... I hope.
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Old 01-20-10, 06:29 PM
  #9084  
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make sure your rear wheel is centered also. if it's off, you'll hear it when you ride.
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Old 01-20-10, 06:35 PM
  #9085  
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^ That's your opinion. Good job, fool.

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Old 01-21-10, 02:41 AM
  #9086  
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My Kilo

Mostly stock.

Last edited by scobility; 02-15-10 at 05:31 AM.
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Old 01-21-10, 09:21 AM
  #9087  
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just wondering. How much is it to cut the steering tube at the LBS? I don't own the tools and i think I'm really scared to do it myself. Plus it seems like a one time job so getting the tools isn't really in my best interest.
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Old 01-21-10, 12:49 PM
  #9088  
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It would depend on your lbs, but probably not much.
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Old 01-21-10, 04:24 PM
  #9089  
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my lbs cut my steertube for free, granted, i spend a crap tom of money there.
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Old 01-21-10, 09:38 PM
  #9090  
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Originally Posted by Igneous Faction View Post


One year later and still awesome. I bought mine from Gene Spicer for $180.00.

To the OP, what size cranks are you riding on? I have zero overlap on mine and I ride 165mm with GR-9's and Soma clips.
What stem is that?
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Old 01-22-10, 09:03 AM
  #9091  
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Originally Posted by Derreck View Post
It would depend on your lbs, but probably not much.
Originally Posted by stillanimal View Post
my lbs cut my steertube for free, granted, i spend a crap tom of money there.
Sweet. I spend a lot of money at my LBS too. Hopefully they'll do me a favor Thanks guys.
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Old 01-24-10, 10:37 AM
  #9092  
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its a bicycle that costed you around 100 dollars and its made in china.
don't expect a good chainline unless you know how to make it good yourself.

if the chainwheel is more outside than the cog, you can mount your chainwheel inside your crank spider instead of on the outside
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Old 01-24-10, 10:51 AM
  #9093  
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Originally Posted by blasternot112 View Post
its a bicycle that costed you around 100 dollars and its made in china.
Where can you buy a Kilo TT for a hundred bucks?

Originally Posted by blasternot112 View Post
don't expect a good chainline unless you know how to make it good yourself.
This can be said about any bike. Paying a lot for something doesn't guarantee a good chainline.

BTW: the chainline on my Kilo is perfect. I've measured.

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 01-24-10 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 01-24-10, 02:07 PM
  #9094  
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Originally Posted by blasternot112 View Post
its a bicycle that costed you around 100 dollars and its made in china.
don't expect a good chainline unless you know how to make it good yourself.

if the chainwheel is more outside than the cog, you can mount your chainwheel inside your crank spider instead of on the outside
Funny, the vast majority of Kilo owners have managed to achieve a straight chainline just fine by following parts specs. But I guess anything made outside of the US, Japan and Europe is crap, so the straight chainline must entirely be the result of the components, and have nothing to do with the alignment of the frame.

And it's actually made in Taiwan, which is considered a first world nation with first world manufacturing capabilities. Judging by your grammar skills, I wouldn't expect you to be able to grasp that little nugget of knowledge.
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Old 01-24-10, 02:09 PM
  #9095  
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Thinking of replacing my chainring with a 42t one.

http://aebike.com/page.cfm?action=de...=30&SKU=CR1542

Would this one be good/fit? Or is there anything better for around the same price?
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Old 01-24-10, 05:44 PM
  #9096  
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Unless you can't, I'd suggest opting for a larger cog instead of a smaller chainring (or unless you're really itching to shave a few grams... very few). More teeth mean more places for wear, and thus "longer-lasting" parts.
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Old 01-24-10, 06:29 PM
  #9097  
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Originally Posted by prind0 View Post
Thinking of replacing my chainring with a 42t one.

http://aebike.com/page.cfm?action=de...=30&SKU=CR1542

Would this one be good/fit? Or is there anything better for around the same price?
can we try answering this question? i'd like to know if this fits with the kilo's as well. (p.s. does the 38T one fit?)
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Old 01-24-10, 06:41 PM
  #9098  
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Assuming the cranks that you're using are 130 BCD, I don't see any reason it shouldn't work... c'mon guys, use your heads
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Old 01-24-10, 07:13 PM
  #9099  
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..
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Old 01-24-10, 11:00 PM
  #9100  
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Originally Posted by erichsia View Post
anything made outside of the US is crap
i have a kilo tt but i love my country and regret my poor decision everyday i ride the damn thing.

yes i'm typing on a computer made in china, yes china (and taiwan smartass) makes product comparable to american product, yes i'm stupid for expressing my opinion and liking the US of A. but just google it or something instead of yelling at me.

even more unrelated: where's the "text 90999 to donate $10 to help victims of California wild fires and flooding" ???
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