astrx

so yeah, I was thinking that if i go with a different fork that puts the wheel closer to the frame that would do it right?
anyone know if the carbon fiber fork offered on IRO's site has more agressive angles than the IRO group buy bike?

bikeage

why make it more aggressive?

odie91

because he really wanted a frame with true track geometry, but couldn't resist the price of the IRO?

doofo

get really big tires

freeskihp

cause he is an AGGRESSIVE kind of guy


grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

babychris

I heard he bites.

br995

Because he deals dope and needs something to protect him from the 5-0?

astrx

as usual, thanks for all the thought provoking helpful comments.

dustinlikewhat

well since the seat tube is more slack than a track frame, maybe a 650c front wheel with the stock fork?

shapelike

Changes to make it more aggressive? Proper width and positioned (not just really ****ing low and narrow) drop bars so your out-of-saddle sprints have great leverage and a good saddle position so you can really wind up your spin (slightly more forward than "usual" = better ... if unsure, experiment in .5cm increments).

bryanp

Uh... Iro sells carbon forks?

doofo

yup

bryanp

Link? I don't see any their website.

doofo

they are listed under

add an upgrade
?

and

add a carbon fork
?

BoSoxYacht

Pump it full of steroids, then kick it in the head tube.

danish

i dunno.. machine guns?

morbot

prolonged eye contact tend to make IROs more aggressive, especially males

nox tuboid

BINGO!

huerro

These things always depend, but tequila works for me.

gargiulo.mike

the iro is cool how it is

shogun17

yeah, but moving the tyre closer to the frame will make it look more aggressive, but handle less aggressively. I'm throwing on an Easton EC70, with a few mm more rake (IIRC) as a test, to see if it'll quicken up the handling, making it 'more aggressive'.

And seat tube angle is overrated. steeper allows shorter chainstays, but if you use a setback post, saddle slammed back on the rails, or a straight post with saddle forwards, you are changing the angle anyway.

FI, assume a 28cm long saddle with one corner of a hypothetical triangle connected to the middle, one more to the BB and one horizontal with the ground, so it forms angle ABC (effective ST angle) with the BB.

Lets say the test whatever has his saddle at 76cm from the BB.
1. straight post with clamp in the middle of the saddle will be a 73 degree seat angle. How many people use that?

2. Setback post pegged 7.5cm behind BB.
=73.6 degrees.

3. Italian style 10cm behind bb
=71.6 degrees

4. 5cm behind bb (theoretical UCI limit) Easily achievable with a straight post because my short femurs mean I use this position
=75.5 degrees.

There you go, you can have an aggressive 75.5 (or keep pushing it up) or a slack 71.6 using the same post. Or is this another one of those fashion, not position, things.

hockeyteeth

When you get professionally fitted for a bike (a road bike, at least), they make sure your knee doesn't extend past your toes while pedalling because it supposedly causes knee problems. So watch out if you decide to slide your saddle all the way forward.

dutret

I think you mean because he wants something that people will talk about putting a low rake fork on has nothing to do with "true track geoemetry"

zacked

This is the important part of this thread. If you want the bike to handle more quickly, you want a fork with more offset, not less.

WakeUpOnFire

understanding trail ftw!