Bike Forums - eccentric hub?

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I'm currently riding a surly 1x1 rear hub with the singulator. I can't quite get the tension I need 'cause when cranking uphill on the dirt it starts clicking and slipping. It's an ugly, ugly noise.

I'm riding an Ibis Mojo with a 32x16 gear ratio and I'm looking to get rid of the singulator.

I saw the new white industries eccentric hub and was wondering if anyone has one and what their experience is with it.

Or, if anyone has other ideas of what I could do to fix my tension problem, those are more than welcome.

thanks.

The latest issue of Dirt Rag has a review on the White Industries Eno hub. They give it a thumbs up.

One option that might help the singulator is using it in the "push up" direction. You may need to use a diff. gear combo (you could still run 2:1). It looks like you've got a lot of chain, can you remove a link? Also, check this gear calculator for a combo that may work without a tensioner
http://www.peak.org/~fixin/

You could get get horizontal dropouts installed on the frame, probably run $75-100. Also, you could get an EBB installed by Vulture Cycles. I thought about doing this to my Mojo since I haven't ridden it in well over a year. If I break my Surly I'll probably go that route.

BTW, like the screen name, great book.

If it slips under torque then your drive train has either worn chainrings/cogs or your chain is stretched or maybe all three.

Quote:

Originally posted by captsven
If it slips under torque then your drive train has either worn chainrings/cogs or your chain is stretched or maybe all three.

Not many teeth engaged on that rear cog. That, combined w/ frame flex when mashing steep hills could definitely cause his symptoms even w/ new drivetrain parts.

It looks like he has plenty of wrap to me.

Can't you set the singulator to push up on the chain, therefore achieving more chain wrap?

Thanks for all your help. I thought the comment about frame flex was interesting- hadn't thought of that.

As for taking links out, I tried when I put it together and it falls just short of working.

I'm thinking of moving up to a 36x18 and seeing if that helps, or would it just be the same problem?

As for installing horizontal dropouts, who does this? I'd need a new paint job, too, right?

thanks again.

Quote:

Originally posted by winston smith

I'm thinking of moving up to a 36x18 and seeing if that helps, or would it just be the same problem?

Check the link I posted above and you'll be able to see if that gear combo is closer to working with your chainstay length.

Quote:

Originally posted by winston smith

As for installing horizontal dropouts, who does this? I'd need a new paint job, too, right?

Any local frame builder who works with steel should be able to do it. If you can't find one, post on the MTBR.com single speed board and someone there should be able to point you to a close one. A repaint isn't really necessary, I know people who have touched it up with the garage job Krylon and you can't even tell.

Hey there. I am running the ecc hub on my gt. I love that thing. Easy to set up, easy to tension. NEVER have had to readjust it due to slippage. Did 3 runs at Downieville downhill last weekend. My spokes were loose, but hub was secure in the dropout.

So am I just wrong in saying Winston has enough chain wrap?

It looks ok to me but if I am wrong please tell me.

thanks everybody for your feedback.

I moved the singulators spring back a bit and it cut down on the skipping dramatically. I guess I didn't have enough tension.

That eccentric hub looks NICE!

thanks for your help.

Quote:

Originally posted by captsven
So am I just wrong in saying Winston has enough chain wrap?

It looks ok to me but if I am wrong please tell me.

He's running a 16T in the rear, but less than half are probably engaged, so I'd say yes.

Here's an excerpt from Surly's web site on this topic. While I agree with them on this point, I don't when it comes to using multi-speed chains (but that's a discussion for another day).

Quote:

If you didn’t realize it, there’s only roughly half of the amount of teeth on your cog engaging the chain at any given time. In the case of an 11 tooth cog, that’s only 5 or 6 teeth at any given time! Unless your thighs are as big around as a Surly™ carpenter pencil, you will be able to make any low-gear transmission required for general one-speed off-road riding skip AT WILL, using an 11 tooth cog…

… and its not so different for a 16 tooth cog, probably the smallest rear cog you might have on your one-speed ride. Considering that you don’t shift, you’ll be giving EIGHT teeth the full wrath of your wide load up the harshest vertical climbs you choose to attack. What my long-winded explanation is getting at is that more teeth are better when it comes to an off-road one-speed drivetrain. One tooth makes a huge difference out back with regards to preventing skippage. Wear life, too, is improved with more teeth. Since you never leave that gear, every mile you spin is on the same few teeth. Your drivetrain will last longer and will skip less and will launch the chain fewer times if you use larger cogs and chainrings.

I recommend that you pick a big cog out back (18 teeth or larger) and experiment to find a gear ratio you like by varying your chainring sizes up front. The weight penalty here is practically non-existent; there is no benefit whatsoever to using a "Micro-drive" drivetrain on your one-speed off-road bike. Don’t do it! It’s dumb and you’re gonna hurt yourself on a steep climb.

I've been thinking about switching to a 36x18. I measured my chainstay as best I could and went to that website riderx suggested. If I measured correctly, I think the new gearing might work out. Hence, I'd get rid of the singulator _and_ have more contact that surly and others suggest.

Thanks for setting me straight rider X. I just went to the Surly site and read the article. I learned a bunch today!!